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Timing chain tensioner

Flashflood

Elite Explorer
Joined
September 2, 2018
Messages
765
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Location
Laramie
City, State
Wyoming
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 ford explorer 94 xlt
So once my x gets back from being in the transmission ER there is a couple of things a want to look at. One engine tensioners what size are they I have a 27mm deep and wasn't able to get the back one to move. But then I've heard a 1 1/16 is what you use. What size is it.
 



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Your socket might just not be the right shape. The difference between a 27 and 1 1/16 is almost nothing.
 






27mm

Stick the new gasket to the head of the tensioner with grease so it stays centered
 






Deep 27mm is the correct socket. Hex is very shallow and must be seated perfectly straight. If not breaking free, put a short cheater pipe all the way up the handle of your ratchet or breaker bar and pull slow and steady. Stabilizing the ratchet is somewhat awkward if using a long extension through the wheel well.

Breaking free is the easy part. As @C420sailor mentioned, centering the oversized I.D. gasket is the only way to guarantee a seal. Took me three tries with the front tensioner using a thin application of lithium grease. Pressurized oil sprays fast, and it's not fun cleaning deep inside the intake valley.

Coincidentally, both hydraulic tensioners have the same M22 x 1.5 thread as the oil filter on later 4.0L SOHC's that use the metric filter.
 






Consider filing/grinding/sanding the socket (evenly) until the bevel is gone. Better bite.
 






FYI @Flashflood OP,

EVERY part of your Explorer is metric. Only part I ever found that was fractional were 3/8" brake bleeder screws, and those may have been replaced by the previous owner. Anyone, if I'm mistaken please LMK.
 






Every part certainly is NOT metric. You are indeed mistaken.
 






FYI @Flashflood OP,

EVERY part of your Explorer is metric. Only part I ever found that was fractional were 3/8" brake bleeder screws, and those may have been replaced by the previous owner. Anyone, if I'm mistaken please LMK.
My 2000 Sport isn't all metric for sure.
 






Every part certainly is NOT metric. You are indeed mistaken.
I agree with this statement. When me and my dad took care of the hubs those bolts were standard not metric.
 






Thanks for clarifying.

Interested to know WHICH specific fasteners are SAE.
 












I don't keep track. I have yet to work on an American mfg'd vehicle of any make that was 100% metric.. I'll add that I haven't worked on any late model anything though. I do know that when changing the radiator, alternator, and control arms/ ball joints/ camber kits on my 2000 Sport model I was back and forth from metric to SAE.
 






Thanks @Motorhogman

What's interesting is after 14 years of ownership doing my own work I've yet to find anything SAE on my 2005 Sport Trac besides the likely replaced brake bleeders. Someone mentioned hubs, but I haven't needed to work on them yet. 1/2-20 wheel studs may be the first things I find in SAE.
 






‘05 sport trac maybe

My 98 and 99 definitely have SAE fasteners. Not a lot, but def a handful where it’s between sizes and the standard is a perfect fit
 






Your brake bleeders are factory. Your fuel and brake line hardware is all sae nominal tubing. Think about it. Is someone going to make a metric thread brake bleeder with an SAE head?

Your truck is guaranteed to have SAE fasteners.
 






Your differential plugs are also guaranteed to be SAE NPT threads.
 






I've found very few sae. 5/8 works best iirc on the exhaust manifold to cat bolts, but that could be due to heat distortion. Sometimes 5/8 works better on trans bolts that are supposed to be 16mm

On the other hand, is any metric socket set "truly" metric when the drive size is expressed in sae format?
 






5/8 is .625 and 16mm is .630, many sae and metric sizes are close enough either wrench works. Sometimes I'll use the slightly smaller one if I think the bolt might round off.
 






5/8 is .625 and 16mm is .630, many sae and metric sizes are close enough either wrench works. Sometimes I'll use the slightly smaller one if I think the bolt might round off.
Lol I can agree with this statement.
 



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