Never Done, Build Thread for Kenne Bell Supercharged 5.0 Explorer with Ranger Edge Front Clip | Page 23 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Never Done, Build Thread for Kenne Bell Supercharged 5.0 Explorer with Ranger Edge Front Clip

I saw a range from 65 to 86 but mostly you need free shipping or ship to store.........

Walker Exhaust 56199
 



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I am gonna give credit to MusckleJunkie for the tail pipes. I wouldn't have thought of going a bit smaller till I saw that the Pro's did on his. Makes sense that the cats and mufflers will take a bunch of heat out which reduces exhaust volume, and a bit smaller tube will help keep exhaust velocity to the rear. If it works I should feel an increase in torque at lower rpm, but it will be at the cost of loosing some power at high rpm.

And Wow, thanks to Amazon I will have two stock 5.0 2-1/4" tailpipes Saturday. I got the last two and with free shipping they are a 'steal'. The shipping should cost more than pipes! Silly Amazon stuff.

I didn't have a full plan when I started exhaust mods. I still don't. The final weak links are the 2-1/8" TMH ball joint and 2-1/4" downs. In the least, I would open the joint up a bit and add larger downs. If I was to replace the ball joints, then I think longer collectors could be made and followed by 2-1/2" downs. Either method would complete it.

I am exited to get the tailpipes and try to make them work.
 






The Stock Dual Tailpipes

The resonators that came with the stock tail pipe are gone. They were a bit thick and wouldn't allow me to bring the tailpipes tight together. The pipes need to be right next to each other to thread around the spare, through the frame and shock, and out the back. Add to that the fact that cats, crossover, 12" resonators, and mufflers are a bit longer than stock.

The rumble in the vehicle is gone, but folks will know when I pass! I didn't have much time but got out to get another hanger and a beer.

I got them ruffed-in, needs wire-brushed, final weld checks, another hanger, and cut to length or turndowns to the side???????

Ex3.jpg
Ex1.jpg
Ex2.jpg
 






That is wild
I would cut them to the length you want and pick some nice stainless tips maybe a bit of a turn down? I like the shotgun barrel look but that may not be possible with them both ending under the bumper
 






So it has got two cats, then crossover, then resonators, then mufflers, and now dual 2-1/4" tailpipes. I cut down the tailpipes by removing the stock resonators and replaced them with the appropriate length tubes to mate the two pipes. I bent both pipes up over the axle about 1-1/2" since the resonators being longer, had pushed it up higher. It also has about 1-1/2" lift for more axle clearance

I think I got around $600 in exhaust parts, not counting TMH's, ha, I think I would have easily paid three times that to have it one done for me.

I got to drop the tailpipes to clean them up and double check welds. I think I will cut them shorter with turn-downs/outs towards the corner of the rig.
 






It was a lot of work, under my rig on concrete, tired of that, but happy with the results. It is night and day quieter with the tailpipes. There is no drone which was the case with turndowns under the rig. The resonators that I removed would have made it too quiet. I am back to enjoying tunes and subwoofer.

The tail pipes are cut-off and tips applied. I think I cut them far enough back so they wont get slammed-up under the bumper. I reused the turndown tips I had and tilted them to the side a bit. I may try to bend them up a little. Digging the fireproof black paint, goes well as I have no chrome/metal on this rig.
tips.jpg


They disappear:
tips.jpg


As expected or maybe cause I expected it, it pulls a little slower at high rpm but does seem to have picked-up some low end torque. I'll be checking highway mileage tomorrow.
 






Got her out on the interstate and you can hear the exhaust more cruising at 70-80mph. Everything else is a bit noisier at speed anyway so it's fine! I can still hear my lady and enjoy the stereo.

Researching H2O/Methanol spray...........................Man was it hot last summer!

This is my biggest obstacle, I believe I would need to find a place to install a larger than average H2O/Meth tank. The engine runs in boost for long periods climbing the passes around Colorado, so it would be using more spray. Maybe 2 or 3 gallons. It might be easiest to mount the battery in the back and put a tank where the battery was. I don't want to mess around checking fluid between gas stops.

It would be easier to run 100% H2O. I wonder if I would need it in the winter and not have to worry about freezing or needing methanol? I am going to get some datalogs to look at IAT's in this winters temps. That would let me know if cooling would really help in winter. It is running great now.

Tuning is important and it seems a safe tune would be to add the spray to my current tune which is aggressive enough without cooling. That would bring 40-50 horses. I think I could double that with more boost, less timing, and less fuel. However an aggressive tune, that counts on the spray, could easily kill the engine if the spray is lost. That tune and 10lbs of boost would be for Track Day, ha ha, and JK.

This would give me reason to make better downs for the exhaust would need them at a bit over 400hp.

I am also wondering how much the stock trans will handle as this would push over 500ftlbs of torque. 10lbs would surely cook or break something with 470hp and 560ftlbs of torque.

They say this could result in a slight MPG increase. Anything would be better than a larger cam and poorer gas mileage. It also reduces emissions and cleans valves.

Ideas, thoughts, put the battery underneath somewhere?
 






Man, I've totally slept on your thread for a while. Crazy I hop in today and see you just completed an exhaust setup that's basically what I've been planning!

Ideas, thoughts, put the battery underneath somewhere?
Do you have a factory sub or one of the cargo basket/pouches in the back? I always thought it would be nice to relocate the battery to that useless cargo basket area in the back and use a sub grille as a cover (break off the tabs and add velcro to hold it in).
 






Man, I've totally slept on your thread for a while. Crazy I hop in today and see you just completed an exhaust setup that's basically what I've been planning!


Do you have a factory sub or one of the cargo basket/pouches in the back? I always thought it would be nice to relocate the battery to that useless cargo basket area in the back and use a sub grille as a cover (break off the tabs and add velcro to hold it in).
I run a tube style 8" woofer so there is room there. It's been done, but, Snow Performance makes a 2.5gal tank the size of a battery with a 15' braided steel hose. I won't run enough methanol to be flammable and may run strait water when it's not hitting freezing temps. It will be easier and safer to locate the tank there. I have ordered one to put there and it looks almost designed to fit.
boost-cooler-tank-set-9-5l~2.jpg

Tank sno-40014-brd_xl.jpg


I am getting a Stage 2 Kit with braided steel hoses with VC-50 boost gauge/water-methanol controller/display.
VC-50 sno-60500.jpg

Kit sno-210-brd_tw_xl.jpg
 






You will love everything from snow performance however the tank sucks plain and simple find a better tank
The fitting on the bottom of the tank is also plastic junk The kit comes with a plastic fitting as well
I had to buy my aluminum self sealing tank tap separate It was worth every
penny
I installed a filter as well
1708480010762.png


I also went with the nylon line because I knew I was going to be moving stuff around a lot the stainless steel braided line is not as forgiving to move aroundaround
It looks great though

Also order a couple #6 nozzles that's what you end up using I'm sure
 






You will love everything from snow performance however the tank sucks plain and simple find a better tank
The fitting on the bottom of the tank is also plastic junk The kit comes with a plastic fitting as well
I had to buy my aluminum self sealing tank tap separate It was worth every
penny
I installed a filter as well
View attachment 450074

I also went with the nylon line because I knew I was going to be moving stuff around a lot the stainless steel braided line is not as forgiving to move aroundaround
It looks great though

Also order a couple #6 nozzles that's what you end up using I'm sure
I did order a filter as well and could see the need to change nozzles to get the right amount of spray. Dang, I may be sending that tank kit back. I'll check it out after your heads-up. I could set it up with the standard tank that comes with it at least temporarily and/or change the tap?

I didn't think I would do this spray thing. But, I have found-out that running a tune that is maxed-out but safe without spray will get good gains with spray. I will not do more tuning, pulling fuel and adding timing, which could blow-up the build if it lost spray. I have maxed-out boost with tuning at 8lbs. At 8lbs, the exhaust is maxed-out at 400hp and the tune is only good for winter. 8lbs is too much above 50-60 degrees! With spray, I can run at 5.5lbs and get what 8lbs would make! It is safer because it can be run at 5.5lbs without spray at any temperature.
This graph compares 5.5lbs with spray to 8lbs without:
5.5lbs spray vs 8lbs.jpg
 












Ahhhh, Thanks! This is gonna be cool, err cooler.
 






Spray goodies are coming today and we got good weather this weekend!

I am excited to get the basic install completed and data log some time with it. The controller/boost gauge has an on off feature, great to be able to compare pulls with and without spray. The switch is also nice to be able to turn it off when it's cold out and not needed (Early morning climbs in the mountains at 10 degrees).

I am looking to cool the air charge to gain power and octane. I am not after the additional octane from meth as I am not running that much boost to need it, certainly enough to heat the air charge. One pound of boost = +10 degrees F. I think I may run a little isopropyl alcohol to keep it from freezing and add a bit more cooling.
 






Just make sure the nozzle is pointed directly at the blower inlet
I had to move mine around to figure that one out
 






Just make sure the nozzle is pointed directly at the blower inlet
I had to move mine around to figure that one out
OK, that makes sense, get all the cooling shot into the blower cause that is where the heat is produced. That has got to be most effective rather than cooling air pipes, throttle body, and EGR block? I was thinking of mounting it just before the blower intake elbow, but after your post, It would be easy to tap the aluminum elbow and do so to position it to spray it inline with the flow.

The larger Snow tank I ordered has a better built-in bulkhead fitting, female 3/8" NPT fitting.
Tank Bulkhead.jpg


I put some pieces together today but need to take a break for some sponsitilities that recently came-up. It also looks like a big storm is coming..........................that will keep me busy and the rig running cool for a bit longer.

I tapped-out the tank and was surprised how many tank shavings were in it. I will shake it up and rinse it out a few time after seeing this:

Clean out tank.jpg



Clean out tank 2.jpg
 






To be fair that big tank does look better than the smaller ones that come in the kit
 






To be fair that big tank does look better than the smaller ones that come in the kit
Yah, but it is not what I ordered. The tank I ordered has a bottom corner formed at a 45 degree angle to fit next up tighter next to the fender well.............................................I hope it fits there.
 






A little progress, The tank does not fit as well as what I ordered, but I confirmed that the older style had the leaky tap. I wanted it to sit as low as possible to be able to fill it and it sits 2-1/2" above the deck when sitting level with the front edge on the fender. It's a bit high..... well........................I will cut more plastic to be able to fill it from the side or am thinking of a drilling with a hole saw from the top to be able to drop a funnel in the hole and fill it. I did OK, but hurried a bit and now will need to do more trim work. I do have a color matched, plastic paint to cover the tank, but ended-up with bigger gaps than I wanted.

Tank.jpg



I had already drilled a hole and tapped the supercharger intake elbow for a vacuum fitting with the same NPT threads that the spray nozzles are threaded for. I used that hole for the spray nozzle as it was closest to the intake of the blower for the spray and moved the vacuum fitting to the EGR block. I was able to disassemble, tap and clean the T=body/EGRblock/intake pipe without removing the supercharger.

Nozzle vacuum placement.jpg


That's all I got. I have been sidetracked by great snow for skiing and an damn HOA issue or I'd have it done!
 



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I have to say I think you guys respect my opinion I don't like where that nozzle is It really needs to be on the back of the intake elbow directly behind the blower inlet
I had to move mine
I hope this location is good but I doubt it
The difference in performance is very noticeable
 






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