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Wax & Cleaner Recommendations




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Polish strips, smooths, and prepares your finish and wax protects it.

LMGTFY FTW
 






+1
 






To do it right you should clay bar your vehicle first then polish and wax, I use the Tech Nano Wax it seems to work better than others.
 






Turtle Wax products are complete junk. But even some boutique stuff is called polish/wax when it's really neither lol.

You have polishes/compounds, in various levels of aggressiveness. Go to www.autogeekonline.com . Everything you need from affordable boutique stuff to higher end $ products. A good polish would be from Optimum as they have longer work times and don't really dust like crazy like others. Obviously you'll want to clay, wax etc. You'll want a good machine as well like the Flex (they have packages on that site including pads and other products like sealants and waxes and polish). Just go to that site and they'll have everything you need including excellent microfiber towels for all uses, not the store bought junk microfibers.
 






Almost all polishes have some type of abrasive in them to remove water spots and small scratches.If you vehicle is not in need of a polish just use wax, I use P21S wax Monthly on my 2003 xls down here in sunny Orlando. Nice thing it does not turn chalky white if you get it on the plastc trim.On my GT/CS Mustang I use Zaino products.
 






To do it right you should clay bar your vehicle first then polish and wax, I use the Tech Nano Wax it seems to work better than others.

I just tried claying for the first time but with a soapy bucket of water. Man was it easier than the old spray shine and clay.
 






Meguiar's Wax

I spent a few hours today on my new 2012 Ex....applying Meguiar's best 'Hydrophobic wax' with a terrycloth applicator and polishing it off with a few microfiber towels. It went pretty quickly....car is brand new and I wanted to get a good coat or two on before winter.

I just tried claying for the first time but with a soapy bucket of water. Man was it easier than the old spray shine and clay.
 






About the only thing going for Turtle Wax Ice was the ease of application since it didn't turn trim white. The new Meguiar's Ultimate Wax now has no-chalk as well, and lasts a hell of a lot longer than TWI. I tried the TWI a few times back about 5 years ago, and trashed it, it didn't seem to maintain it's hydrophobic tendencies more than a couple of weeks. I've had the UW on my truck now for about 3 months and it still sheets water off.

You can also check the Meguiar's forums, they have great reviews, and don't allow bad-mouthing competitive products, so a lot of the reviews are pretty honest and straightforward. Plus, there is a LOT of great info over there.
 






Best Wax For Explorer

Has any one tried the new Turtle synthetic wax on there EX. I just used it and it seems to do a good job. Just curious as to what people are using and the results they are getting. I started out using Liquid Glass put I kept getting it on the plastic pieces and it would leave a white residue. The Turtle wax can go on the plastic without leaving any residue. That is why I started using it. Any other suggestions.
 






Guys on this forum suggested the aircraft wax/sealant "ReJex"

It works very well.
 






You can ask that question 100 times and get 100 different answers. I use either blitz one grand or klasse all in one.
 






Put me down for rejex, I use it on my boat too.
 






Honestly, I'm gonna bet that most name-brand waxes out there are probably pretty comparable. The best thing you can do is properly wash and dry the car to avoid swirl marks and microscratches.

Use two buckets - one with the soap, and another with rinse water to rinse your microfiber mitt in between dipping it in the soap. You wouldn't believe how dirty the rinse bucket gets - that's all dirt not being scraped across your paint.
 






...and use a grit guard to keep the granules out of your mitt :)
 






Honestly, I'm gonna bet that most name-brand waxes out there are probably pretty comparable. The best thing you can do is properly wash and dry the car to avoid swirl marks and microscratches.

Use two buckets - one with the soap, and another with rinse water to rinse your microfiber mitt in between dipping it in the soap. You wouldn't believe how dirty the rinse bucket gets - that's all dirt not being scraped across your paint.
After getting a 'whoops' repaired on my former '09 Highlander, the bodyshop guy recommended using a paint glaze instead of wax. He said some waxes will wear down the clear coat over time.
I think the last time I shopped for cleaners, etc., I think I saw waxes labelled as being safe for clear coat, or perhaps I'm conusing that with other products.:scratch:

Peter
 






Meguiar's Professional Series, first use #7 and then #26.
 






Honestly, I'm gonna bet that most name-brand waxes out there are probably pretty comparable. The best thing you can do is properly wash and dry the car to avoid swirl marks and microscratches.

Use two buckets - one with the soap, and another with rinse water to rinse your microfiber mitt in between dipping it in the soap. You wouldn't believe how dirty the rinse bucket gets - that's all dirt not being scraped across your paint.

Too add to your tips, I would use a Micro Fiber waffle weave towel to dry your vehicle to avoid scratches and swirl marks.
 






Check out autopia.org it is a detailing forum and they cover a lot of stuff on there. For me personally I decontaminated with IronX, then clayed with Speedy Surface Prep Towel, then polished with 3D Uno and 3D Speed, and finished with 3D Nitro which is supposed to last a year. There is another product called Optimum Opti-Coat which claims the same thing (although I think it is more permanent). It's a ton of work though so you got to love it...otherwise could do NuFinish or something
 



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I used Turtle wax Ice on my '08 Escape and it brought finish back to life. My Ex is to new to need a wax job. I saw a review of ice on Mustang forum website. No white in cracks & can use on plastic.
 






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