SNJ's Rig (full build progress thread) | Page 31 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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SNJ's Rig (full build progress thread)

Since October of 2002 according to the thing under my name :rolleyes:

Actually Linds gave me a link to her build thread and I read through it again and got all nostalgic.

aww isnt that sweet

*sings* memories!!!

i know how long youve been here for, im just sayin youve left us for a while... a verry cold, dark, lonely while....
 



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so yea that alignment by a string thing, epic fail on my part....

its better now....
 






well yeaaa haha it worked at the time but you knew it wasnt perfect but wut happened?
 












i know ive been neglecting my duties in responding here.

i had the camber as good as it would go, wich on the right side wasnt close, and i did not acount for the difference between the front and rear trac width, wich aparently put my toe way out, coupled that with the wheel was off, so i had made a post alignment adjustment to both sides toe to center it and that seems to have gotten me further from the fact. i forget what the reading was, but it was way off. i now have 0* toe, but still the pull right because im out of camber adjustment on the right side, wich has always been a problem on this truck. i can get the camber in if i swap the coils back to the JD ones, but then the 35s hit to much

it needs one of 2 things, me to find and fix the tweak that im convinced is on the right side (pass beam i think) or 6" coils and a body lift.... at this point the 1st option is more likely

in other news i finally got my plates today!

227554_2106812831898_1292876913_32701833_5078781_n.jpg


229281_2106811631868_1292876913_32701832_2806115_n.jpg
 






Do you have stock camber cams or the bigger aftermarket ones?
Also, Give that poor truck some toe atleast, then CUT for the 35's and drop it a little. I had 35's with just a 3 inch body at one point.
 






Do you have stock camber cams or the bigger aftermarket ones?
Also, Give that poor truck some toe atlease, then CUT for the 35's and drop it a little. I had 35's with just a 3 inch body at one point.

3* ones IIRC

i havent driven it much since the SJ springs, and i still think they have some sag in them, witch is why i havent really done much about it yet
 






munk got a little tlc last night. i cooled the l/f bearings, and the right side ones werent to healthy, so it got a new set of 4.

even got dad to help
270295_2267948180181_1292876913_32889005_1428597_n.jpg


also changed the oil and all that boring stuff

for anyone thats keeping track were at about 9450 miles on her thus far
 






making pops slave on munk. you prob never even taken him wheeling to! geez! :p
i was looking at the above posts from that, did you ever get her aligned properly? forgot to say this at the show, but i wonder if you have tweaked the frame to the point now that you cant align the front end. just throwing that one out thats all. dont want to see ya burn up the tires.
 






i took him once in jersey. i dont know if his back would survive a trip out to pa

munk has had alignment problems since day one... well really day 2, the 2 inch spacers were an issue on the right, i know shes tweaked to some extent, i just dont know how/where

its umm.... better then it was..
 






im not dead yet

so being that i have a week off next week (quitting your jobnot will dobe tthat to you) i figure id bring this up to the top and stir some interest as munk comes in the garage next week. The bikes done, so on to the next project

 






alright so while im here i figured id point out one of the things thats taken my attention as of late


418000_3525590580455_1292876913_33750239_2145342266_n.jpg


bike is just a wee bit different... http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=1402252

ok, so today i finally got some work done on munk:

ive really had enough of this:
432111_3543148419390_1292876913_33759649_467290411_n.jpg


so we did this:

429194_3544400330687_1292876913_33760406_770375370_n.jpg


427089_3544396730597_1292876913_33760405_1235399620_n.jpg


with the parts spas gave me from blackjack

i blew the seal out of the steering box a while ago, which was pretty played out anyway, so got in a fight with the box i saved from the limited, and wound up putting a bit to much heat on the pitman, so i took the new(er) box, replaced the seals in it and thatll go in tomorow

429043_3545546199333_1292876913_33761118_2059030189_n.jpg
 






took ya long enuff to put the dam brakes in
 






Hanna Montana nice to see your still alive and breathing
 


















Started the day off by finishing the right brake line for the dics swap

422930_3549362174730_1292876913_33762690_1649803560_n.jpg


so now heres our final routing with everything nice and tucked up out of the way.

429443_3549363454762_1292876913_33762691_666736088_n.jpg


threw the cover on, and totally forgot how much lube it holds, so ill finish filling that tomorow

And then things took a turn when instaling the new(er) steering box. to quote myself:

Whelp broke that..... not sure how im fixin it either....

Seriously ford? A plastic bushing assy on the lower end of the steering colum.... a big #### you to whoever thought of that

I broke the PLASTIC bearing suport on the end of the column trying to separate the intermediate shaft.

429677_3549953709518_1292876913_33763037_1126922454_n.jpg


Fortunately i have another column assy. that still left me with the problem of separating the ishaft, wich i wound up just cutting and breaking off.

431074_3549955709568_1292876913_33763038_204339078_n.jpg


swapped the PLASTIC bearing support thing, and put the 94 ishaft in

419390_3550320198680_1292876913_33763357_298110966_n.jpg


im not sure why, but yay for having rag joints at both ends

when i got done with this i found myself a rebeling wheel seal

416864_3550754369534_1123414146_n.jpg


as we all know (atleast any of us that have bothered to read this thing) ive always had alignment issues on the right side. (yes i know the 8" springs are not helping) im making an atempt to sort that out somewhat. i think the righ side beam is twisted, and i have this weird thing going on where the knuckle is actually rubbing on the beam around where the upper balljoint goes into the knuckle, as if the lower balljoint hole is over spec and the knuckle is sitting to high in relation to the beam. savy?

so out it comes

419685_3550966734843_1292876913_33763539_893591692_n.jpg


im gettin good at this

once i pulled it i found this:

426278_3551872997499_1292876913_33763892_1008450145_n.jpg


now i already welded this beam once, and it appears that this is a new crack.

so now the plan is to rebuild this one

430382_3551875637565_1292876913_33763893_1973834375_n.jpg


and put it in to see if anything changes. also this time im gonna properly clearance the axle portal, as the shiny line on my shaft is a reminder that i did not do that last time

423710_3552203365758_1292876913_33764053_395495687_n.jpg


unfortunately for me i couldnt see a damn thing anymore, so tomorow is another day.


 






Good stuff - and a perfect day in the east coast to be in the garage eh.
 






rather be on the bike, but workin outside the garage door aint bad either.

so i was having some deliberation today, the right side knuckle has minor rub marks in the vicinity of the upper ball joint on the top side where it has made contact with the beam itself. the gap between the knuckle and the area surounding the upper balljoint is greater on the 94 doner parts then on the ones from munk. when i mock up the newer knuckle to munks old beam theres a decent gap. i had to cut the ball joint from munks old knuckle (after beating the #### out of it for over an hour) so i cant mock that up to the new beam. im thinking the knuckle is bent, so it looks like i am going to replace both the beam and the knuckle using the non abs spindle from munk to block the abs holes in the knuckle. this also brings into question the left side as thats closer then both oe fht 94s, although not as bad as the right side of munks

for anyone who dosnt have me on FB it went down like this:

Ok, so if the clearance between old ttb beam and old knuckle is tight, and between old ttb beam and newer knuckle is better then that means old knuckle must be bent. Correct?
Like · · 10 hours ago via Mobile

Balljoint hole was measured and tested, within the same ballpark, so its not due to an over reamed hole on old ttb beam
10 hours ago

Jason Cullere I had to cut the bj on the old knuckle, so i cant mock old knuckle and new beam up
10 hours ago

Jason Cullere Although my left side is really no different then the right side, so i either ####ed em both up, or thats normal. Could the 94 abs knuckle be different? Im confused

with that being said i cleaned the new(er) beam and clearanced the axle window

425611_3560003480756_1292876913_33767142_524011460_n.jpg


hoping i clearanced enough, but i was afraid of taking to much off

also cleaned up the new(er) knuckle based on the munks being bent assumption, but i gotta extract the bolts for the splash shield that i broke
 



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didnt get all that far today on the axle. got it in, got the knuckle and axle shaft in

418128_3569989090390_1292876913_33771630_1918078144_n.jpg


i then switched gears as i needed a break from the front end stuff

made a bracket for this inconspicuous little spdt switch.

418030_3569969649904_1292876913_33771595_1829070464_n.jpg


then i spent most of the afternoon making this funny little box

421740_3569974650029_1292876913_33771602_941295498_n.jpg


424873_3569979290145_1292876913_33771608_129229192_n.jpg




 






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