How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[PRICELESS-EXP]

I have a odd question. I have read this entire post a few times it seems. Which helped allot when going into the valve body.

Ok so I did the transgo kit and also ordered the ford kit later to get the bonded gaskets for the VB. I had already drilled the hole in the VB so I decided it was best to leave the transgo blow off valve in and not try to do the ford blow off valve since they don't call for you to drill through the passage. I guess I could use another transgo rivet to plug it but I am fine with the transgo kit as it is. If I can still use the ford and delete the transgo valve even with that passage drilled I might would go that route.

My main questions is when I tore down my valve body my tcc relief vavle was shredded for some reason the plastic had gotten smashed and pushe down in the spring and looks like a chewed up barrel instead of a T shape. Well the EPC relief valve is deleted with the new plate and the transgo kit. So I don't have a black plastic valve because it was damged but I do have the silver one that is discarded from the EPC circuit. The silver is metal and the black one is plastic. My plan is to use the silver one from the EPC in place of the black plastic one that was damaged from the TCC relief valve.

They are both the same size and shape. Do you think everything will be fine by using the silver one versus the black plastic one? I was thinking yes at first but now I am thinking maybe the plastic is lighter making it have less pressure or something. I have been very **** about this entire tranny rebuild and cleaned it to better then new status including the bell housing. So I don't want to skip a small part after this much time and work on my tranny.

Sonnax has a 10 pack of relief valves you can buy so I am assuming they are all metal and that buy this I could use my un-used silver one to replace the plastic black one. If anybody has any thoughts or advice on this let me know. I would just order one but the fast parts network does not show that part listed. If it wasn't for this forum I would have never found the other ford parts. I could not search and find them so the listing of part numbers helped me allot. I don't want to bolt down the separator plate and gaskets until I am sure no problems will occur by using the silver one. Thanks, Jeff.

I think this is my first post of any kind but I have been lurking for years and recently bought the elite membership cause I have gotten allot more then 20.00 worth of info here.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Thanks for becoming elite! WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com should have the Sonnax relief valves in stock.

 

[CDW6212R]

Hello Jeff, check the TransGo instructions to see if they still list a phone number for support. I'd call them to ask if those valves are a swap. I doubt it and you will likely be buying a new one.

Make sure that the Ford updated separator plate is identical to the original part. TransGo designs their VB kits based on the original plate and the hole sizes etc. I'd avoid using a plate with different holes or sizes.

 

[PRICELESS-EXP]

I called transgo and they said as long as the springs are the same and the valves are the same it should not matter. Also maybe the reason ford used the plastic was to save money. So I was set to bolt it down.

Then as I was packing the new clutch packs in the drums and putting new seals on the pistons I came across a page in my ATSG manual that clearly stated THESE RELIEF VALVES ARE NOT INTERCHANGEBLE and repeats it for each one converter relief black plastic and EPC relief silver metal one. SO now I am wondering if the book is just being over cautious or if they are indeed no interchangeable. If they were both metal or both plastic I would not worry but. I don't want to put this whole tranny back together after a complete rebuild with almost every o-ring, seal and bushing being replaced and everything cleaned like new just to have to drain that tranny and remove the VB to fix this after installation.

Does anybody know where I can find a new relief valve for the converter. I know sonnax has them but I was trying to get the black plastic one. Myabe I should call sonnax and ask them their thoughts on this and if their vavles can replace both sides.

Still need to get my new torque converter and I foud my bell housing support bushing was completely gone and the casing chewed up some on the edge. But luckily I scored a real nice bell housing and pump form a low mileage tranny form a reputable tranny shop for 75.00. I have a new bushing and seal for it when it comes.

ALSO any guys who have rebuilt or replaced their tranny's, what did you do for aligning the pump back up. I have heard some used the converter and some say no only use the tool. Well tool is on back order and cost about 142.00 which is the price of a torque converter so I am not buying one but I might get a tranny shop to align that for me. Thanks for all the help.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could find the torque converter alignment tool or an entire Rotunda seal driver/alignment set on EBay for a lot less that that. Replace all of the relief valves with Sonnax parts.

 

[sdranger99]

I just did this repair over the weekend. The gasket was shot, so I also replaced it with the Bonded upgrade from Ford, and the new by-pass valve. I put it together and it still had what appeared to be no second or OD. Sounded like it may be the EPC or shift solenoid, so I ordered them for replacement. Today (3 days after the initial repair) the truck shifts very smoothly, and it doesn't appear that I even need the solenoids. Is this common with the rebuild? I'm guessing that there may have been an internal valve stuck and the fresh ATF freed it up. The difference between yesterday and today is unbelievable.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Did you use a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench on the valve body bolts?

 

[sdranger99]

3/8" torque wrench. I saw some posts that said to torque them to 95-97 inch/lbs, but the Ford kit instructions said 89, so that's where I stopped. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but the first two days were they same as before the repair. Coming home yesterday I decided to manually shifht from 1 to 2 to D. When I did that I had second, although it was a harsh shift. Today when I went to work, it shifted great. I did some extra driving with it today, and it ran fine all day.

 

[mall]

Well... I still have a 4R70W/4R75W Rebuild video to finish, and my next diary will likely be a 5R55W Rebuild. Life gets in the way sometimes. Not gone, possibly forgotten. BB appears to be picking up the slack nicely.

Glacier

Did you ever do the 5r55w rebuild?

 

[Glacier991]

No.. in fact I have been absent from the forum for a few years, during which time I got married, changed jobs, and in general did other things. The addition of a wife has cut into time I used before to amuse myeslf with the fun goings on here.

I still have the 5R55W sitting in my garage, and a 4R70W and parts and hope to someday, maybe soon, get back to making those videos.

Trust me the "Diaries" I posted here took a TON of time, and that is a little more precious these days. Still.. the itch to start again looms.

 

[BrooklynBay]

That's great news Chris! It's good to have you back again. Don't be a stranger, and continue to check in occasionally.

 

[wood1]

A tip of the hat to you sir.

 

[CDW6212R]

A tip of the hat to you sir.

Ditto Chris, congrats to you. Have a great family life and thanks for sharing with us. Best regards my friend,

 

[mall]

No.. in fact I have been absent from the forum for a few years, during which time I got married, changed jobs, and in general did other things. The addition of a wife has cut into time I used before to amuse myeslf with the fun goings on here.

I still have the 5R55W sitting in my garage, and a 4R70W and parts and hope to someday, maybe soon, get back to making those videos.

Trust me the "Diaries" I posted here took a TON of time, and that is a little more precious these days. Still.. the itch to start again looms.

I did not realize that I was drawing you out of retirement, my appoligies. Thanks for the great thread, it has almost 350,000 views from around the globe,(the royalties must be pouring in ) replies from people that can't even speak English and has been alive since 2005 with no signs of letting up. I have been reading this thread in my spare time for two weeks and I don't even have a 5r55e...but with that said you created this monster ...you can't quit till every last 5r55e has safely made it to the pearly gates or at least Junkin Jims Scrap Yard)

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I just did this repair over the weekend. The gasket was shot, so I also replaced it with the Bonded upgrade from Ford, and the new by-pass valve. I put it together and it still had what appeared to be no second or OD. Sounded like it may be the EPC or shift solenoid, so I ordered them for replacement. Today (3 days after the initial repair) the truck shifts very smoothly, and it doesn't appear that I even need the solenoids. Is this common with the rebuild? I'm guessing that there may have been an internal valve stuck and the fresh ATF freed it up. The difference between yesterday and today is unbelievable.

I would add a bottle of LubeGard in the 'red' bottle.
This stuff will lube and free-up any sticking valves, etc.

Chris, glad to hear from you; your legacy lives on with
every problem your previous posts help solve.
(Fresh wives do require lots of time and attention, and
we understand.) Eventually you'll find time to jump
into the hobby again.

Long term update: My 2-3 shift flare fix (bonded sep
plate/Superior kit) has lasted 100K miles now, and the
trans still shifts like new.
Crossing fingers and knocking on wood.

 

[BrooklynBay]

It's good to see you here once again too! This week looks like a reunion for all of the long time members that haven't been here lately.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Thanks BB. I still lurk, just haven't posted much.

There's a treasure trove of information here; I'm
amazed at all the solutions to problems...

 

[PRICELESS-EXP]

Just a update sonnax sells high radius relief valves which are shaped like a mushroom head and have a certain radius head on them. They claim these will provide a better seal to the round hole in the separator plate. These are used especially if you are using a old plate which might have some wear to it. They come in a 10 pack and if you order one through transmission parts USA they give you a 10 pack for 7.67 or something like that.

I think they will work great and by design they should perform better providing a better seal on a round hole then a flat topped relief valve.

ALso it was mentioned that the transgo Kit is designed to have the old separator plate used. The new one has number 50 hole deleted which the transgo kit addresses and in this case you just delete the EPC limit relief valve. So new or old plate transgo addresses that problem.

Thanks to glacier for this great thread its the best how to I have seen in a while. I used to write how to for bike builders and other motorcycle related tricks and such. None even close to this big and it takes so much time. If you are actually performing a job that you need done and doing a wirte up it takes 3 times as long. I have tons of pictures of every step removing the whole tranny by the ATSG manual. But I would never have the time to post them in order and write up the detailed instructions. SO bi ups to you for providing this.

 

[aylagas]

Hello how are you I have a ford explorer 4x4, with 112,000 miles, allegedly made ​​the repair of the transmission, but now I began to falter in the second to third change, I ask that you suggest I should do, my body repair valve or buy one rebuilt. he appeared solenoid failure P0732
Thanks for your advice

 

[aylagas]

Today I decided to talk to Donny central bodies of the valves and I asked the 5R55E transmission, excellent attention, just waiting to welcome you to remove the old and install. As of explorer forum made ​​me off, I recommend as a very serious and responsible people