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2002 Explorer - multiple issues, not sure they are related

kls490

Member
Joined
July 23, 2014
Messages
18
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City, State
Williamsburg, Virginia
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Explorer Eddie Bauer
Good evening everyone,

First time posting here and should also mention I'm no tech whiz when it comes to auto problems, or even understanding a lot of the abbreviated terms used within the various sub-forums. (Age and declining health have taken their toll, unfortunately). I wasn't really sure just WHERE to post my inquiry as it involves several issues, and I'm uncertain if they are all separate problems or they may be inter-related somehow. My apologies if I posted in the wrong place.

Description of intermittent problems occurring:

1. Ignition switch: Since April 2014, I've had about 8 occasions when turning off the ignition and removing the key - the engine continues running. I have to partially re-insert the tip of the key and slightly jiggle the switch once to get engine shutdown. (This seems to indicate some kind of "short" in the switch to me).

2. Vehicle start-up: (2A) - When starting the vehicle, the engine may just barely turn over, but not start. On a 2nd attempt, the engine turnover will still be sluggish, but usually starts-up.

(2B) - On other occasions, the engine will turn over normally, but takes too long to make a "shaking" start. It's as if the engine is struggling/sputtering to crank-up.

- The starting problem described in 2B above had first surfaced in April 2014. In June 2014 (about 2 weeks after one episode), a computer diagnostic was done, but the logs showed absolutely nothing at all. The mechanic felt the plugs and wires needed to be replaced since they had never been changed before. (I was also told that the Explorer's computer does NOT retain logs for very long, nor have I been able to find any info as to just HOW LONG the system actually does retain data). All spark plugs & wires were then replaced, and the starting issue seemed resolved, until it occurred again in late November 2014.

- The above issues have occurred about 4 times since November 2014.
- They've occurred both when first starting the Explorer on a given day and also after having driven somewhere, shut the engine off, then starting the vehicle again.
- Outside air temperatures have been between 28 - 67 degrees F, when these issues have occurred.
- Oftentimes, after the engine is running, it seems (to me) the exhaust fumes are too rich.

3. Fuel gauge: Two times since mid-January 2015, when starting the vehicle up for the first time of the day, the fuel gauge needle initially goes up to where it should be, but then suddenly drops to below "E." The message center display on dash panel is unable to display the usual number of miles remaining or the "Computing miles" message. After turning off the engine and restarting it, the fuel gauge and message center display return to normal.

4. Message Center - "Door Ajar warning": Intermittent issue with the dash panel's Message Center displaying the "Door Ajar" warning and audio warning. This occurs very frequently when outside temperatures are above 75 degrees F. In the colder months, it rarely happens. All doors are always closed, including the rear top/bottom cargo door/window. Have to keep pressing the [RESET] button. Also, when this event happens, the automatic door-locking system does not function as it should when the vehicle starts moving.

5. "Grating/grinding" sound - front of vehicle: Since early January 2015 (after leaving a full-service car wash), I've been hearing a sort of low grating/grinding-type noise coming from the front of the vehicle (driver's side; not sure if it's noticeable on passenger side). ** [NOTE]: As I was leaving the car wash & began braking to stop for passing traffic, there was a very strong vibration/shuttering of the entire vehicle felt and heard, until the Explorer came to a stop. This has not happened since. It was after this when the grating/grinding sound began being noticed.

The sound is noticeable when driving between approximately 5 mph - 28 mph, both with the transmission in gear or in neutral & allowed to just coast along.
The noise is a steady sound when driving in the aforementioned speed range - no change in intensity (loudness) is noted.
When the speed passes about 28 mph, the sound is not noticed. (I'm unable to tell if the sound is present when making a right/left turn or when braking). No changes have been noted in the vehicle's braking or maneuvering.

Thank you for your time, review, and any information! :scratch:
 



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Welcome aboard!! :salute:

I can get you started on #4 :

I had similar electrical issues with my '02 XLT. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the accessory delay wasn't working, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, the alarm would beep twice when I armed it. Recently all 4 windows stopped working. Most recently the driver door lock actuator stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 3 broken wires and repaired them. The thin black ground wire was broken and after repairing it all was back to normal. When the windows stopped working, I repaired the thick black ground wire and the windows now work like a champ. I had to repair the pink/black wire to fix the driver door lock actuator.

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=303524

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Unfortunately the pictures are no longer available in the above thread. IIRC, I believe I unwrapped the wires enough to gain access. When I have gone searching in there I had an idea of what wire I was looking for. I located the the wire I was looking for and gently tugged on that wire on the door side. The wire was pulled toward me and out of the harness. I then went inside the vehicle and gently tugged on the the wire I was looking for and was able to pull it inside the vehicle. I then spliced a length of wire to the 2 ends, completing the circuit. I then gently pulled the excess into the door.

Be sure to take your time when looking for broken/damaged wire(s). Check all the wires for breaks/damage. When you think you're done looking, look again, and again, and again. A bright flashlight can be very helpful.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Could also be related to the door ajar switch.

Here is a great thread for checking/replacing the door ajar switch, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249253

That is a great write up.

On a side note, before going through a complete replacement of the switch, you can spray WD40 into the door latch opening on each door, as these become stuck sometimes....and this can alleviate the issue.

This worked for me, after going for more than a year of the "door ajar" light coming on occasionally...mainly after a car wash, high humidity, or rain....making me unable to lock/arm the vehicle from the door keypad and keeping the dome lights on. Worth a try....it worked for me :thumbsup:

The red arrows show you where to spray:

DoorAjarSwitchCustom.jpg


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Good luck getting it sorted. :thumbsup:

Please keep us posted as feedback helps others reading this post looking for a fix to the same or similar issue!
 






Hi Rondo and thanks very much for the info pertaining to my # 4 problem! :D

Being the"non-techie" type when it comes to my Explorer, it's good that there are very knowledgeable people like you here who can give me some idea as to what the problem might be, and where to begin looking!

Cheers!
 






You're welcome. Good luck!!
 






Update on problem # 5 in my original post

Just a brief note that problem # 5 - i.e. the grinding/grating sound/vibration I thought was coming from the Explorer's front end, turned out to be the left rear hub bearing needing replacement. The AAA Auto repair shop I went to said the bearing was breaking apart. Repair cost: $449.02.

Regards everyone,
 






Welcome aboard!! :salute:

I can get you started on #4 :

I had similar electrical issues with my '02 XLT. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the accessory delay wasn't working, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, the alarm would beep twice when I armed it. Recently all 4 windows stopped working. Most recently the driver door lock actuator stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 3 broken wires and repaired them. The thin black ground wire was broken and after repairing it all was back to normal. When the windows stopped working, I repaired the thick black ground wire and the windows now work like a champ. I had to repair the pink/black wire to fix the driver door lock actuator.

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=303524

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Unfortunately the pictures are no longer available in the above thread. IIRC, I believe I unwrapped the wires enough to gain access. When I have gone searching in there I had an idea of what wire I was looking for. I located the the wire I was looking for and gently tugged on that wire on the door side. The wire was pulled toward me and out of the harness. I then went inside the vehicle and gently tugged on the the wire I was looking for and was able to pull it inside the vehicle. I then spliced a length of wire to the 2 ends, completing the circuit. I then gently pulled the excess into the door.

Be sure to take your time when looking for broken/damaged wire(s). Check all the wires for breaks/damage. When you think you're done looking, look again, and again, and again. A bright flashlight can be very helpful.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Could also be related to the door ajar switch.

Here is a great thread for checking/replacing the door ajar switch, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249253



The red arrows show you where to spray:

DoorAjarSwitchCustom.jpg


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Good luck getting it sorted. :thumbsup:

Please keep us posted as feedback helps others reading this post looking for a fix to the same or similar issue!


I have pictures, just posted here.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425094


Regarding engine running issue. Have you check for a injector stuck open?
 






Hi Trucku,

Thanks very much for the additional info on the "door ajar" issue I've experienced at intermittent intervals. The photos (e.g. where to spray WD-40 in the door latches), are a definite help for me (a "senior", non-mechanical type). :)

Best regards,
 






Hi Trucku,

Thanks very much for the additional info on the "door ajar" issue I've experienced at intermittent intervals. The photos (e.g. where to spray WD-40 in the door latches), are a definite help for me (a "senior", non-mechanical type). :)

Best regards,


You're welcome!:thumbsup:
 






Good morning TruckU, BigRondo & anyone interested,

[UPDATE - Issue # 4, Door Ajar alert]: I sprayed some WD-40 into all the door latches, including the rear door lift, as shown in the pictures that were posted. Thus far, I haven't seen any further "Door Ajar" alerts. (Keeping my fingers crossed to see if this completely resolves the problem).

[UPDATES - Issues # 1,2,3]:

(Issue # 1, Ignition switch): The problem with the engine continuing to run after ignition is turned off and key removed is only occurring intermittently.

(Issue # 2 - Start-up issue): Problem has not recurred. However, a local Advance Auto Parts Store did check the battery (now 3 1/2 years old) and said it's amps were down by 57. (Don't know if this was "cranking amps" or "Cold Cranking Amps"). Reading was done when outside air temperature was about 63 degrees (F) though. Unfortunately, his testing device began malfunctioning, and he wasn't able to check the starter and alternator. (Starter is 3 1/2 years old & alternator is just over 2 years old).

* - I seem to recall something about there being batteries which provide superior cold cranking amps especially for Explorers' like mine which may remain parked & not run for extended periods (i.e. 5 - 12 days). If anyone has suggestions/recommendations for a battery of this type, please let me know the specifics, or perhaps a link to a page where I can read-up on the battery & its cost.

(Issue # 3 - Fuel gauge dropping to E shortly after start-up): This problem has not yet recurred again.

Much obliged again for that info! :)
 






Good morning everyone,

Just an update here regarding the startup problem and to ask a new question.

I had the Advance Auto Parts store replace the battery with a new one (which I paid more for), as it is supposed to provide more cold cranking amps than the battery that was in it.

The start-up problem still remains an intermittent issue, i.e. the engine will not turn over at all, and it takes 2-3 attempts before it finally will turn over just enough to start up.
(FWIW, outside air temps now are between 64 - 98 degrees F).

One NEW question I have is this: What is the approximate time period the computer system retains logs which can be retrieved by a mechanic?

I've been given 2 different answers by two different repair shops, so I figured I could get a more definitive answer here.

Thanks very much for your time and any info!
 






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