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Sport Oil questions & Analysis

My 2011 XLT 3.5L motor calls for 5W-20.
You are correct on the Explorer. Just checked my past invoices. Should know better than to go by memory.;)

Peter
 



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Some good dialog in here. If anyone is curious, I would guess that my Ex sees about 70% highway and 30% stop and go/city, all paved roads. No towing. 87 octane fuel. I romp on it occasionally, but not, by any means, abusive.
 






romp on it more and use better gas.

serious question though - why Mobil 1? and where are you?

Does the sport want 5-30 because I assumed it did but don't remember what the book said?

would you consider swapping to something else - and no I don't mean amsoil - though I do use it in my 2 performance motors.

since you're not going for distance between changes - and you're not planning on going till OLM warning. Would you consider saving a few dollars and putting that toward those mid change oil filters? Go back to motorcraft, or Mobil Clean 5000 or Castrol Blend.

and I tell everyone to get a magnet. if for no other reason than why the smurf not.
 






My oil filler cap and my owners manual call for 5-30 in my 2015 Sport.
 






Always make sure your engine (oil) is up to full operating temperature before you stomp on it. I wonder if 93 octane would improve your UOAs???????
 






I did mine on my 2015 F350 6.7 just to compare as well on the Oil life monitor. I changed the oil when it said to change it and I had about 7,300 miles on it. All values were great from Blackstone and they recommended going another 1,000 miles on the next interval. For me, it isn't about how far I can go rather seeing how the Oil Life monitor works. Since I was perfectly fine with plenty of protection left when it told me to change it, I will continue to change it when it tells me to.

Good to see it works well with the Explorer as well.
 






Always make sure your engine (oil) is up to full operating temperature before you stomp on it. I wonder if 93 octane would improve your UOAs???????

true - I like to tell people just make sure the water temp gage has moved off bottom from a cold start.

I recommend the better gas for the ecoboost (and the non boosted in hot weather) because it will let the computer use the higher timing values - AND it leans out the mix since it won't have to accommodate knock. (one of the computer's protections for knock is to enrichen the mixture on lower octanes)
 






true - I like to tell people just make sure the water temp gage has moved off bottom from a cold start.

I recommend the better gas for the ecoboost (and the non boosted in hot weather) because it will let the computer use the higher timing values - AND it leans out the mix since it won't have to accommodate knock. (one of the computer's protections for knock is to enrichen the mixture on lower octanes)
I don't understand this engine knock business in regards to the Ecoboost since it was designed to run on 87 octane which is also the recommended octane.:dunno:
I've used 91 for several months but went back to 87 since there was no change in MPG and no perceptible change in performance.

Peter
 






Mine is a 2013 sport
image_1.png


I ran that 1 sample past 10k just to see how the TBN would hold up and to see exactly when fuel dilution would come into play.
Posting from my phone. I'll look at the report again on my computer later today.
 






I don't understand this engine knock business in regards to the Ecoboost since it was designed to run on 87 octane which is also the recommended octane.:dunno:
I've used 91 for several months but went back to 87 since there was no change in MPG and no perceptible change in performance.

Peter

pardon my bluntness but no it's not. read the ecoboost specs and your manual again. Those HP and TQ numbers show with an asterik to say on preimum 91 octane only.

Yes it will run on 87 - so will my GM built LS3 - but both engines perfer preimum higher octane gas.

Why - knock and pre-detonation. when you run higher compression, or spin a hot huffer (turbo) you heat up the intake track and the air in the cylinder. you can get the air so hot, the fuel when it hits ignites early. Now someone's going to come in here and say but but the ecoboost is a DI engine.

yes it is - direct injection - pushes the fuel in the cylinder directly, not down the intake air track.

However - engine designers for both engines have power and combustion effeciency targets and the like and they will use a term call flame front propogation. Image you stike a match - it flames up - that same thing is supposed to happen around your spark plug when it fires. AND ONLY WHEN IT FIRES.

with lower octane fuel - and higher compression, or rather hotter air in the cylinder - that fuel air mix might ignite before the spark. EVEN IN A DI engine. This is bad for many reasons and the biggest is impulse loads against the valves when they aren't quite in design position. IE hammering the valves when they aren't fully closed or where they are supposed to be - let alone where the engine computer wants the ignition moment to occur.


SO to account for lower octane fuel - the engine designers have the computer do adjustments so as to prevent engine damage - most notably these adjustments include.

Shifting spark timing, Cam phasing (the VCT part of the TI-VCT engines which includes the ecoboost) and most specifically the biggest adjustment is air/fuel ratio. shifting the mix altogether - prevents detonation timing issues.

however it drinks a touch more fuel, which also creates a touch more exhaust gasses, and more soot/carbon nast on the insides of the valves, runners, injector tips etc.

This is a side effect on all engines - but 2 key issues are the intake air temp and density (read that more as humidity). if you have cold dense air, there's little to no adjustment, if you have hot humid air, there is some adjustment. If you have hot, dry air - there is more adjustment.

Now the average person won't notice when they are down 20hp or so, and they often might not even notice 0.5mpg differences - especially in summer heat when you'd chalk it up to more AC use. the effects of how 87 octane changes your performance vary with how you drive the car also. I tend to hammer on my performance car a bit more - so when I put 87 in it - I noticed a 1-2mpg drop and sluggishness. In our older focus - in august heat - 87 vs 93 was a 2mpg drop.

in the explorer - I bet it's a mostly non-event for the TI-VCT 3.5, on the ecoboost I bet it's a bigger effect.

More importantly to the OP and his ecoboost engine - this will effect your fuel dilution numbers and the extra carbon, calcium and other remnants in your oil analysis. OR rather - It could show up in there. note could, depends on how you drive and the out side air temps.


hope that's a bit more clear.
 






Everything I've read in the manual says the recommended fuel is 87 octane. The manuals prior to the 2016 edition were even more specific. The only time they mention using premium is for top performance when towing or in heavy duty use. This to me means that premium is optional.

From the 2016 manual;
We recommend regular unleaded gasoline with a pump (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87. Some fuel stations offer fuels posted as regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating below 87, particularly in high altitude areas. We do not recommend fuels with an octane rating below 87. For vehicles with EcoBoost engines, to provide improved performance, we recommend premium fuel for severe duty usage such as trailer tow.


From the 2015 manual;
2.0L/3.5L EcoBoost® engines:
Regular unleaded gasoline with a pump (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87 is
recommended (with the same provision for the use of premium).

The spec for HP and TQ were achieved using 93 octane. For me the marginal improvement is not worth almost an extra $1 a gallon (latest pricing here).

Peter
 






well they aren't going to say flogging the car in traffic.

but, yes preimum is optional the computer will protect the engine. As I also mentioned the difference in adjustments is highly tied to your out door air temp and humidity.

you're in mid Canada I see - I'm In the mid-south. Our high today was 80 with dry 20% or less humidity. yours was 48 with about 50% humidity. I'd suspect there was little to no adjustment to your car so 91vs 87 isn't a big deal.

However some place do offer 85 and lower octanes - so don't use those.


but summer time around here - 100 degrees and 90% humidity, there are going to be adjustments. IN Arizona, 100 degrees and 5% humidity, even stronger adjustments.
 






So why is 5W30 recommended for the 3.5L EcoBoost instead of 5W20? I assume it's because of the turbos. I ask because I purchased my 2015 Sport used from a Ford dealer. Before driving it off the lot they changed the oil and put in 5W20. I pointed out to both sales and service manager that they should have used 5W30. Both shrugged and said it would be OK.

I also purchased an extended service contract. The closest affiliated dealer to me is a Mercedes dealership. They use Mobil 1 5W20. I asked about the 5W30 and they said that all Mercedes spec 5W20 even for turbocharged models.

I assume the engineers who specified 5W30 knew what they were doing. I assume dealerships are not looking for trouble if the authorized dealer provided the service and the engine or turbos fail early.

Just wondering.
 






So why is 5W30 recommended for the 3.5L EcoBoost instead of 5W20? I assume it's because of the turbos. I ask because I purchased my 2015 Sport used from a Ford dealer. Before driving it off the lot they changed the oil and put in 5W20. I pointed out to both sales and service manager that they should have used 5W30. Both shrugged and said it would be OK.

I also purchased an extended service contract. The closest affiliated dealer to me is a Mercedes dealership. They use Mobil 1 5W20. I asked about the 5W30 and they said that all Mercedes spec 5W20 even for turbocharged models.

I assume the engineers who specified 5W30 knew what they were doing. I assume dealerships are not looking for trouble if the authorized dealer provided the service and the engine or turbos fail early.

Just wondering.

5W20 became the norm due to CAFE...at least here in Canada.
 






The dealer has been using Premium 5W-20 (non synthetic) in mine as well for 2 years and it has the same Ecoboost engine. Not worried and haven't insisted on 5W-30 since it is a lease. I'm sure that if you ask for 5W-30 they will be more than happy to put that in next time.

Peter
 






I have a Ecoboost 3.5 Twin Turbo 2015 Explorer which I floor pretty hard. Purchased in Nov-2014, it is touching 30,000 miles. I buy Mobil-1 5W30 Full Synthetic oil at best price available from Walmart and get my oil changed by my trusted Hyundai Mechanic at around 8000 - 9000 miles. Living in Denver, I have my fair share of Mountain Driving and plain interstate driving with all sorts of climatic conditions to boast of. There have been multiple threads about oil type in this forum. If you go over them, you will find a lot useful information.
 






5W20 became the norm due to CAFE...at least here in Canada.

Reminds me of how the 4.6L 3V was specifically engineered for 5w30 but because of CAFE standards they switched to 5w20 before release even though FoMoCo engineers opposed.
 






I searched and nothing came up so hopefully I'm not starting a duplicate thread on this, but what type of oil are you guy's running for your Explorer sport? Has anyone done oil analysis on a certain brand/type? What were your results?
 






I searched and nothing came up so hopefully I'm not starting a duplicate thread on this, but what type of oil are you guy's running for your Explorer sport? Has anyone done oil analysis on a certain brand/type? What were your results?
Your thread has been merged with this one on the same topic.

Peter
 



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Your thread has been merged with this one on the same topic.

Peter
Thanks Peter, not sure why this thread didn't show up under the search. Definitely alot of great info in this thread. Looks like Mobil 1 5w30 is the way to go. Just curious does anyone run rotella t6 on their sport? Been using it on my powerstroke, and bikes for years and have never had any problems. I usually change between 5,000-7,000, but oil analysis shows it can go to 10,000 as mentioned with Mobil 1 on the sport earlier in this thread.
 






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