Sport Oil questions & Analysis

[Fpo]

Thanks for the good info. I'll change back to the higher weight around 7000 miles. What kind of hook up can you get for me? It kind of always seemed to me that the shipping weight of oil would kill any kind of deal!

I can drop ship an oil change to the lower 48 for about $ 7.10 there is more than that in wiggle room
and if you happen to need anything else, motorcycle/atv , trans fluid, gear oil etc it gets even better. For retail customers they offer free shipping on orders over $100

 

[markls8]

I agree you needn't be overly concerned about doing harm to your engine by leaving the 5w- 20 in for a change interval. The manufacturer's choice of viscosity is a compromise of factors chosen to balance wear throughout the engine. Although a thinner viscosity might slightly increase wear in one part of the engine, it will result in less wear in other parts. The oil performs a lot of different duties at different parts of the engine. Note that there are more differences between oils of different viscosity grades than simply the viscosity – the additive package varies as well, so the manufacturer may have chosen one oil over another for the accompanying additive package.

Because engines operate under so many varying conditions and duty cycles fuel dilution is not a given in all situations. Higher compression engines like the Eco-boost do allow more fuel to move past the piston control rings and into the crankcase, but if the engine is run long enough at operating temperature the fuel and other volatile contaminants become vapourized and burned off. Short trips and cold weather can be a culprit too. The superior fuel control that direct injection offers should actually reduce the amount of fuel dilution, as compared to more primitive carburetion for example, particularly during warm-up.

As an example, fuel contamination is below detectable amounts in the oil analysis posted above, post 64 by jrgoffin, (as measured by the flash point, more fuel in the oil=lower flash point). The viscosity did test in the “low” range, however there is no way to know for sure what it was when new – it's possible that the oil was not far from that initially.

As oil is used over time, it thickens, unless diluted, because oil, especially non-synthetic, has had viscosity improvers added to it to make it thinner. The base oil remains intact for a long time, but the additives diminish in time, so the oil thickens. Contaminants contribute to this as well. Loosely stated, the oil is thick oil with thinners added to it, so as it is used it thickens, sometimes to the consistency of molasses, as a quick 'boo at Youtube will bear witness to. Over-simplified, I know.

I am still curious about the fuel dilution though, FPO - have you seen frequent fuel dilution happening with these engines, as judged by an oil analysis? Is there a technical explanation to offer for it?

 

[Fpo]

I am still curious about the fuel dilution though, FPO - have you seen frequent fuel dilution happening with these engines, as judged by an oil analysis? Is there a technical explanation to offer for it?

Google "Ford Ecoboost Fuel Dilution" you'll be surprised at What shows up.

I've been doing Used Oil Analysis

I'm going to run this change a little longer

 

[markls8]

Interesting FPO. Thank you for posting that!

 

[Fpo]

Interesting FPO. Thank you for posting that!

the first sample was diluted enough that the oil fell out of grade.

 

[Sgt1411]

Forgive my ignorance but why are the Boron and Sodium levels highlighted?

Why is that good/bad and what's it saying about the oil?

I get the concerns with fuel dilution in the oil, just dont get the other highlighted items, is that an indicator of contaminants?

 

[Fpo]

Forgive my ignorance but why are the Boron and Sodium levels highlighted?

Why is that good/bad and what's it saying about the oil?

I get the concerns with fuel dilution in the oil, just dont get the other highlighted items, is that an indicator of contaminants?

The sodium was a contaminant, the boron is a additive it was a little low for the product, since it was a brand change there probably was a little of the old oil still in there bringing it down. You notice how the last one was the best?

 

[Odrapnew]

Just wanted to post my oil analysis report for the last 3 oil changes in my 14 Sport. I did the first oil change around 5000 miles(I didn’t get a report on the first one), and the image below is the 3 changes since then. The quick summary is that the wear metals have gone down with each oil change even though the miles on the oil changes have gone up. All 3 changes were done with 20-25% left on the OLM. Mobile 1 5-30 oil with Motorcraft filter.

Also note the TBN has gone up as well. This is indication of that there is more life in the oil with the later changes. Based on what they saw, the analysis company(you know who they are) stated that I could go 10K miles between changes(but not exceed the OLM recommendation). I think I’ll stick with the 20-25% rule.

Let me know what you all think.

 

[Bill #5 Explorer]

Holy cow, that Ford motor throws a TON of copper and iron.

Why are you running 5-30? Does the Sport run a different oil than the NA Explorers (they run 0W20)?

I love UOAs. I run Blackstone on my Porsches. Not the Ford. FYI- you should forego the TBN testing and save the $10. You're changing the oil early, and not trying to extend the interval. You know the oil is holding.....so pocket the Hamilton! LOL.

 

[peterk9]

Holy cow, that Ford motor throws a TON of copper and iron.

Why are you running 5-30? Does the Sport run a different oil than the NA Explorers (they run 0W20)?

I love UOAs. I run Blackstone on my Porsches. Not the Ford. FYI- you should forego the TBN testing and save the $10. You're changing the oil early, and not trying to extend the interval. You know the oil is holding.....so pocket the Hamilton! LOL.

0-W20?? My Limited used 5W-30 as does my MKT. That is the recommended oil.

Peter

 

[Bill #5 Explorer]

0-W20?? My Limited used 5W-30 as does my MKT. That is the recommended oil.

Peter

Maybe I'm wrong. I need to look at my oil cap and owner's manual again.

 

[Odrapnew]

Yeah, the Sport lists 5-30.

As for the TBN, I was just curious for the first few oil changes to see what was left compared to what the OLM was stating. In the future I will skip it.

 

[1995E]

0-W20?? My Limited used 5W-30 as does my MKT. That is the recommended oil.

Peter

My XLT states 5W-20 but after reading many articles, manufacturers only recommend that for fuel economy reasons but it doesn't lubricate as well at higher temperatures. I moved to 5W-30 instead. I think 5W-30 should be the oil people are using in the 3.5L NA and I do believe the Ecoboost engines are recommended for 5W-30 as well.

The 2013 Fusion 2.0L Ecoboost and the 3.5L Ecoboost in the 2014 F-150 all state 5W-30. I'd say do the same for the NA 3.5L since it is better.

 

[Bill #5 Explorer]

My XLT states 5W-20 but after reading many articles, manufacturers only recommend that for fuel economy reasons but it doesn't lubricate as well at higher temperatures. I moved to 5W-30 instead. I think 5W-30 should be the oil people are using in the 3.5L NA and I do believe the Ecoboost engines are recommended for 5W-30 as well.

The 2013 Fusion 2.0L Ecoboost and the 3.5L Ecoboost in the 2014 F-150 all state 5W-30. I'd say do the same for the NA 3.5L since it is better.

Thank you. That's what I plan to do in a few thousand miles, and maybe after the upcoming winter season (when I'm in areas that are 20-25 below zero).

I ran Mobil 0W40 in the 2011 Limited for well over 70,000 miles of it's 152,000 mile life (then traded in). Never burnt an ounce of oil. Gas mileage was always fine and within spec.

 

[182RG]

0-W20?? My Limited used 5W-30 as does my MKT. That is the recommended oil.
Peter

My 2011 XLT 3.5L motor calls for 5W-20.

 

[182RG]

My XLT states 5W-20 but after reading many articles, manufacturers only recommend that for fuel economy reasons but it doesn't lubricate as well at higher temperatures.

Not sure the source of your articles, but that simply isn't true.

 

[613GT500]

Not sure the source of your articles, but that simply isn't true.

For fuel mileage yes, the lubrication part no (or lack of).

 

[Napalm]

Holy cow, that Ford motor throws a TON of copper and iron.

Why are you running 5-30? Does the Sport run a different oil than the NA Explorers (they run 0W20)?

I love UOAs. I run Blackstone on my Porsches. Not the Ford. FYI- you should forego the TBN testing and save the $10. You're changing the oil early, and not trying to extend the interval. You know the oil is holding.....so pocket the Hamilton! LOL.

I wouldn't go so far as to call it a ton with a new turbo'd mill. and only 28K on the clock. would be interesting to see the first one though, and also compare to a known same test engine.

I'd equally suspect most of that is ring metal and the copper is perhaps some cam bearing metal. - I'd also expect both to continue to go down however i have to wonder what the normal trip for the car is. Ie extended stop and go sequences.

and I agree with you on the TBN thing - might as well not bother on the test or only do it yearly.

 

[Bill #5 Explorer]

I wouldn't go so far as to call it a ton with a new turbo'd mill. and only 28K on the clock. would be interesting to see the first one though, and also compare to a known same test engine.

I'd equally suspect most of that is ring metal and the copper is perhaps some cam bearing metal. - I'd also expect both to continue to go down however i have to wonder what the normal trip for the car is. Ie extended stop and go sequences.

and I agree with you on the TBN thing - might as well not bother on the test or only do it yearly.

To me it's a TON. By comparison, on my 2014 911S PowerKit (430 HP) non turbo 911 with 20,000 miles, my iron is 5 ppm vs Odrapnew's 31 ppm. And for copper, mine is 2 vs his 42. Aluminum is similar, mine 3 to his 6.

Doesn't really mean much. Like comparing apples to oranges, probably, but just an interesting comparison non the less, and I like playing with numbers.

Thanks.

 

[Napalm]

yeah +1 to the rubbish that the 5-20 spec oil doesn't lube properly. thing to note - unless it's changed in the last 3 years. ALL 5-20 spec oils that meet Ford, GM, and Merc specs are syn blends or full syn oils.

Now in the extremes - they do fall short - so if you're out in arizona in the summer then yes you should move over to something else - like a 5-30 or better a 10-30/40.

yes the 5-20 was developed for helping fuel consumption - most notably city fuel consumption - and it was developed for emissions since it's also low soot oil and missing some metals for the cat converter. (think PCV vapor in the intake)

but it lubes just fine, if you're that worried about it move to a full syn oil, but you'd be better off using a good filter - and changing it when your OIL value is around 50% - and then doing it again with a full oil change.

OH and get you a magnet for your oil filter - I use one out of a computer harddrive and I place it to the side of the filter not on the bottom. and no it's never moved from miles of driving and standing water.