Well the rescherch I found showed the coeerect repair is the line boring of the hole the shaft rides in and rebushing it. A P0775 is about seleniod "B" which is not in the seliniod pack in the pan, but the selenoid above the pan that presses against the overdrive drum band. I just hate to waste $200-300 on a seliniod pack only to find it still have the same problem. The truck is in mint condition with no signs of ever been used for towing as the reciever still looks brand new with now scuffs. The truck had 145,000 on it. The timing chains are noises but being the 4.6 I can handle that (in the middle of changing out chians on my other Ex 4.0 now). I'd like to keep the truck, but man, almost the KBB price on just fixing the transmission.
I think what's happening here is that you are confusing the Overdrive Servo, which is a hydraulic/mechanical device with one of the Solenoids, which are
electrically operated mechanical devices which control hydraulic pressure and direction of hydraulic oil flow. PCA PCB and PCC are the three Pressure Control Solenoids. They are all part of the Solenoid Block Assembly, which is bolted to the valve body, inside of the oil pan. Where you got the idea that PCB is not in the oil pan, I don't know. P0775 concerns PCB; here's what the Ford Shop Manual says: P0775: PCB "Solenoid or Circuit Fault". Condition: "PCB Functional Fault- Low Pressure. Symptom: "Incorrect Shift Pattern indicating mechanical or hydraulic failure of the transmission. Will turn on MIL light.
The Servo access is outside of the transmission, on the RH side. The Overdrive Servo is the one closest to the front of the transmission. It should be opened and the parts inspected. If all looks good, the PCB Solenoid would then be suspected. We can't go much farther here, because you never described the original symptoms: noise, no 5th. gear, rough shift to 5th. gear, what?
PCB can be checked for electrical integrity outside of the transmission, without opening it up. If the coil is burned out, or shorted to ground, PCB will have to be replaced. If it is OK electrically, it may still have failed mechanically. The bushing which guides it's plunger sometimes crumbles to bits, preventing the plunger from moving. I have heard that energizing the Solenoid will produce an audible "click"; this would confirm the plunger is moving properly. I cannot say whether that idea is fictitious, and think the pan would have to be removed to hear it. No, don't go blindly replacing a Solenoid Block without testing the solenoids first. A GOOD transmission guy can do this, but he would also have to be an honest man. Much more dough to be made tearing into things, or replacing the whole transmission. Good luck. imp