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2018 Escape issue

NEWPORTNJ

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2020 ST EXPLORER
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I know this is a forum for Explorer, but i have this issue and i have posted on the escape forum but that is a DEAD forum...Need help please

This is the 3rd time i take this ESCAPE in for service for non starting in the morning and the dealer can't find anything wrong with ti. They have checked the battery alternator and it all checks out fine. I then take the car home and it starts ok for a day or two anthem it goes back for non starting. Can some please give some idea what can be wrong ?

2018 Titanium
 



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First thing when this happens to me in the past in an older car is check the "neutral" safety switch. I don't know if your car has that with newer cars being all electronic, I am not familiar with an Escape.
 






Explain by no start, does it crank? Is it dead? What does it do when you push the button ir turn the key?
 






Explain by no start, does it crank? Is it dead? What does it do when you push the button ir turn the key?
It's dead. Nothing works. I have to give it a booster. This has happened about 4x.
 






Next time it is "dead", use a volt meter and check the voltage at the battery terminals, if good go to the next closest available power junction and check the voltage, keep doing this until you find the "open" in the circuit. Also, check all the major ground connections to the body, engine, chassis, and the connections on the battery.
 












I would start by replacing the battery. Next time it is "dead", try replacing the battery with the one in your Explorer. If it starts, that should point to a bad battery.

Peter
 






Does the dash or interior lights come on?
No. Nothing comes on. The dealer has had it every time this has happen and still they don't fine the cause. It just happened yesterday 12/14/18 and i took it back to them and called Ford for a regional to step in and escalate this issue for a resolution.
 






Something I feel is worth noting about vehicles built in the last 10 years or better: when “you” turn the key or push the button to try and start whatever you drive, that is just a suggestion to the on board computer(s). It is not like the old days where there was an actual circuit that went thru the neutral safety switch, etc. nowadays, you merely are suggesting to the gods of electronics that you would like to go somewhere.
 






Something I feel is worth noting about vehicles built in the last 10 years or better: when “you” turn the key or push the button to try and start whatever you drive, that is just a suggestion to the on board computer(s). It is not like the old days where there was an actual circuit that went thru the neutral safety switch, etc. nowadays, you merely are suggesting to the gods of electronics that you would like to go somewhere.

Very true!! But, has nothing to do wIth this situation.
 






I had the exact same problem and symptoms but it was with a much older Ford vehicle. It turned out that i had a major short caused by the wires from the battery to the fuse box loosing their protective coatings and shorting out on the metal tray that the fuse box sits on. Maybe in your case a major power wire is shorting somewhere even though it's a new vehicle. Maybe a wire rubbed through from an installation error. The dealer is going to have to trace the wiring harness to see if there is a major short occurring. Mine didn't show up doing the normal parasitic draw testing. It was only when they physically examined the wiring harness they found the problem.
 






No. Nothing comes on. The dealer has had it every time this has happen and still they don't fine the cause. It just happened yesterday 12/14/18 and i took it back to them and called Ford for a regional to step in and escalate this issue for a resolution.

Not for nothing, but I don't know how much faith I would have in a dealer who can't find a voltage drain...
 






Not for nothing, but I don't know how much faith I would have in a dealer who can't find a voltage drain...
They claim that every time i take it, its been running so the whole system is charged ups this time i drop it off on Friday, so on Monday when they try to start it and it doesn't start they can take it from point zero. I have also called Ford and asked for regional to get involved, let's see what happens tomorrow Monday.
 






They claim that every time i take it, its been running so the whole system is charged ups this time i drop it off on Friday, so on Monday when they try to start it and it doesn't start they can take it from point zero. I have also called Ford and asked for regional to get involved, let's see what happens tomorrow Monday.
Have you tried my suggestion in post 7?
 






Have you tried my suggestion in post 7?
Its the same as giving it a booster, once i give it a booster it starts fine for a few days then it won't. The dealer tested the battery and alternator and it all had good readings. I know that my wife had for what ever reason unplugged the phone charger and it was stating fine i drove it the other day and plugged the charger back in and left it plugged and the next day it did not start, so i wonder if that was the cause, but a phone charger doesn't have msg draw if nothing it's not charging anything and we have had the car since march and that just started like 2 month ago.
 






Its the same as giving it a booster, once i give it a booster it starts fine for a few days then it won't. The dealer tested the battery and alternator and it all had good readings. I know that my wife had for what ever reason unplugged the phone charger and it was stating fine i drove it the other day and plugged the charger back in and left it plugged and the next day it did not start, so i wonder if that was the cause, but a phone charger doesn't have msg draw if nothing it's not charging anything and we have had the car since march and that just started like 2 month ago.

If your battery completely drained once, let alone twice or 3 times.. it is junk... dont care what the dealership says. Not saying that is what was causing it but it sure isnt helping your situation now.
 






If your battery completely drained once, let alone twice or 3 times.. it is junk... dont care what the dealership says. Not saying that is what was causing it but it sure isnt helping your situation now.
Let's see what they say tomorrow. I will fight for a new battery. Ironic the driver seat also stopped working, but the passenger works fine. I guess the motor to the drive seat went bad or was the cause ?
 






Its the same as giving it a booster, once i give it a booster it starts fine for a few days then it won't. The dealer tested the battery and alternator and it all had good readings. I know that my wife had for what ever reason unplugged the phone charger and it was stating fine i drove it the other day and plugged the charger back in and left it plugged and the next day it did not start, so i wonder if that was the cause, but a phone charger doesn't have msg draw if nothing it's not charging anything and we have had the car since march and that just started like 2 month ago.
If that's the case then I would expect a bad battery as I mentioned before because the only thing you're changing with a boost is adding a charge to the battery.

Peter
 






If that's the case then I would expect a bad battery as I mentioned before because the only thing you're changing with a boost is adding a charge to the battery.

Peter
I will push for a new battery. Thank you. Peterk9
 



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If that's the case then I would expect a bad battery as I mentioned before because the only thing you're changing with a boost is adding a charge to the battery.

Peter
Also peterk9. The battery from the Ex won't fit in the place where the battery goes on the Escape. You have to see the stupid place they put the battery and what you have to remove to be able change battery its right under the cowl its crazy !!!
 






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