4.0 SOHC Timing Noise

[410Fortune]

slow down a minute
This is not a Polaris part, it is aftermarket

Polaris used the exact same tensioner in their Prostar engine as Ford did, so this is a Cloyes part made for Ford and Polaris

The AFTERMARKET manually adjusted tensioners are all spring, no oil pressure
Some are available on Ebay and from MANY aftermarket / racing companies like Sparks Racing, Alba, Boondocker and more
There are a few different designs to choose from

You follow the instructions that came with the tensioner to set pre load
The Polaris engines are making 116hp+ (2014-2015 models) with two cylinders 999cc and overhead cams, the parts are/will be strong enough
Lubrication should not be an issue since the tensioner does not push on a chain it pushes on the chain guide, same as the ford part. Difference is the oil pressure is not required to get tension, it is all spring

I am now working on a 2001 Sport trac that needs tensioners......stay tuned

 

[allmyEXes]

Thanks for the info. I've been waiting for your knowledge. BTW, I sent you a message...
So the $64- Ebay part is made by Cloyes ?

 

[allmyEXes]

This is the one that will be here Tuesday
14-16 POLARIS RZR 1000 XP & S - NEW MANUAL CHAIN TENSIONER & GASKET timing cam | eBay

 

[410Fortune]

EBAY PART NOT MADE BY CLOYES
Cloyes makes the tensioners that come stock in your FORD or POLARIS engine

The Ebay tensioners are made by somebody who sells them on Ebay, no brand
They do come with a new POLARIS oil seal

I also ordered two of those $65 tensioners so we can put this to rest
I have a 2001 Sport Trac with 199K miles, runs excellent except the short tensioner noise at cold start from rear cassette (and bad 5r55e)
I will be installing two of the ebay tensioners along with a new transmission

 

[allmyEXes]

THANKS for clarifying that

 

[allmyEXes]

The replacement tensioner arrived today

It is an entirely manual piece, no spring

EBAY PART NOT MADE BY CLOYES
Cloyes makes the tensioners that come stock in your FORD or POLARIS engine

The Ebay tensioners are made by somebody who sells them on Ebay, no brand
They do come with a new POLARIS oil seal

I also ordered two of those $65 tensioners so we can put this to rest (Did you mean test ?)

I have a 2001 Sport Trac with 199K miles, runs excellent except the short tensioner noise at cold start from rear cassette (and bad 5r55e)
I will be installing two of the ebay tensioners along with a new transmission

This matches a Sparks design
Sparks Racing Manual Cam Chain Tensioner, Polaris RZR 900 XP/ XP4 and RZR 1000 XP/ XP4

 

[donalds]

I can't wait to see how this turns out

 

[allmyEXes]

me too? (lol)

 

[david4451]

So not sping loaded! It is therefore down to you as to how much tension you put on the timing chain. Too much it will wear the plastic guides faster, too little and will rattle a lot.

I think you will have to fine tune this while the engine is running, like the Brazil guy did, but that was on the front tensioner and we all know its the back tensioner that breaks up.

If you have an old ford tensioner the marks on spring loaded "plunger" will give you an idea of what length to start with.

 

[allmyEXes]

Very true. I've been thinking about that and I don't want to overstress the chain. I have read some late today about the adjustment as it has to do with the Polaris engine, which I know is an entirely different engine but still there would have to be a similarity in chain tension. My original intentions were to install on the right rear first, but if I install the left upper first and get it where it feels and sounds right, then I can measure my adjustment with my inch pounds torque wrench and be able to use that number (and torque wrench) on the right lower which is difficult to access relatively speaking. I will perform the task earlier part of a day when I am sharper mentally.

 

[david4451]

That's the way to go with torque wrench, then you'll have a real figure to work with. I really hope this works out well mate.

 

[allmyEXes]

Thanks man. I'm with you on the old ford tensioner and the wear marks on spring loaded "plunger" as a preset. The long threads on the outer housing of the new part should be long enough to get it started and as I thread it in...I should be able to feel it as it starts to apply tension.
5 hours ago I came across this replacement part for the RZRs
HD Automatic Timing Chain Tensioner - Polaris RZR 570 / XP 900 / XP 1000
that I would like 410Fortune to weigh in on when he gets time. I'll post my results having to do with manual chain tensioner pictured above. Thanks for the input !

 

[donalds]

Oh boy oh boy oh boy
Can't wait
Pleases me a vid when your done

 

[david4451]

That HD tensioner is probably the way to go ultimately. The reviews from user are all positive, it's oiled & spring loaded. I find it amazing that no R & D from Ford has come up with this kind of replacement.

 

[allmyEXes]

For the top tensioner swap out my tool list includes:
1 1/16" boxed end for tensioner housing
combo to hold threaded center core of mechanical tensioner (part on desk at work so not able to size up)
combo for lock nut (podawsnatsu)
inch pounds torque wrench
3/8" extension
socket for center core adjuster (podawsnatsu)
stethoscope to listen for when the chain tension goes from slappy (loose) to quiet (about right) to whine (if too tight)
a little engine sealer for the mechanical tensioner body threads
and a third hand to hold stethoscope probe on front chain housing during adjustment.

More than one person here may think that I am putting in a little too much thought in to this but this is currently my daily transportation and don't want to foul it up. It's really my Wife's and the slappy rattle scares her. When it is fixed I get my 5.0 MM back !

 

[410Fortune]

Nicely done!

Follow the polaris style instructions for install, tighten with your fingers then back it off slightly.
I bet it will be the correct torque.
I have had the Sparks racing tensioner in our rzr for about three years now, still works perfectly never has needed adjusting.

 

[allmyEXes]

Ok, back for a bit. There is an access issue up at the top left tensioner location. My tools won't fit with several engine parts in the way. There are braided fuel lines that could get damaged. Someone mentioned a sensor on the thermostat housing that is or could be in the way and if the upper plenum was not there it would be an easy task. I need the O-rings between the two halves of the intake so am going to wait on replacing the top one until I can purchase a Weller piece (if experienced people think this would be a good hydraulic replacement) and replace the tensioner while I am replacing the intake O-ring gaskets. There doesn't even look like there would be room (maybe doable) to adjust a manual tensioner. So I went back to Plan "A", the bottom tensioner.
The first picture shows the hole in the engine where the old tensioner came out of.

The 2nd picture is an access hole that I hole sawed in the apron to get a straight shot at the tensioner without using swivels. The rubber dirt flap covers it when reinstalled.

The 3rd picture is of the two tensioners, I preset the new one against the wear marks on the original. Also in the same picture is the "slug" from drilling the apron. There is a nice little spot that the pilot bit wanted to sit and the alignment is good. And the last two items are the bronze colored Ford washer and the dark gray Polaris washer. I havnt decided which one to use. Any input?

ADDED: I have tacked the Ford washer to the tensioner with RTV and centered it the best that I can. Right before I screw it in the head, I will run a bead of sealant around it, install it and torque to ~35 ft lbs. After adjusting I will put some sealer around the adjustment screw threads and torque down the lock nut to ~22 ft lbs. I'm inclined to believe that this part maybe made overseas because of the near 10mm wrench size on the tip of the adjuster. But I could be wrong.
Question ? Do 4.0 have metric threads and bolts?

 

[allmyEXes]

I.m back from a test drive. When I got to the point of adjustment I kept screwing in the adjuster by hand to the point that I thought that I was going to run out of threads. I didn't have a good spot to use a stethoscope scope but get this...You old guys, old like me, remember playing with 2 tin cans and a string ? you know, early cell phones? Well when I was adjusting the tension bolt while it was running with a small ratchet, an 18" 1/4" drive extension and the 10mm socket, the extension touched the apron where I had made the hole in it and it started making the rapping/slapping sound. it was acting like a speaker. I let it keep touching it as as I turned it very little at a time, it got quieter and quieter to the point that it wasn't making any noise. A built in speaker size stethoscope. I didn't have many threads left over on the adjustment bolt but enough to lock it down. I guess 200K miles on the engine, the chain is going to be stretched some and the tension guide worn.
It worked for me and I will see in the morning if I am having any noise out of the front tensioner after the oil pressure bleeds down overnight. thanks again ya'll !

 

[donalds]

Can you take a pic of the tensioner installed so we can get an idea of the thread left on it after adjustment

 

[donalds]

That HD tensioner is probably the way to go ultimately. The reviews from user are all positive, it's oiled & spring loaded. I find it amazing that no R & D from Ford has come up with this kind of replacement.

These manual tensioners are a great idea
But the pre oiler seems like a better fix for the overall problem what's your opinions