Tom,
I've got some of the Ford manuals on disc, and can send them pdf if you need. But most stuff has been posted up here anyway. One of the best things you can do before you start the job is to get the motor at TDC on the #1 cylinder (passenger front cylinder) on the compression stroke.
If you do this before you take stuff off, you'll have a much easier time of it. You might find that a crankshaft turning nut (socket) is handy to own. One for a small block Chevy fits a mod motor crank perfectly.
If you have the cam holding tool, you can hold the camshaft still. Without having to worry about the camshaft moving (due to spring pressure), you could pull off timing components and put them right back on without having to do cam timing from scratch.
One other neat trick... if you end up having to loosen up the cam gear bolts, you'll find that the gear goes onto the keyway rather sloppily. This means that you could slightly advance or retard your camshafts, relative to the crankshaft, simply by moving the cam gear to one side of the slop or the other. It amounts to about 2 degrees of advance or retard. You should always advance the cam as much as possible, especially in a truck, within the slop range, to compensate for chain stretch over time.