Morimoto Mini H1 Retrofit | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Morimoto Mini H1 Retrofit

Thought I share my install currently underway. I am going slow and not rushing this as I want to get it right the first time. Started with the Morimoto Mini H1 4.1 Bi-xenon Projectors and graphite shrouds from http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ and the Black Crystal Headlights from ebay.

I didn't realize how transparent the shrouds are so I painted the insides with aluminum engine paint to fix that.
IMAG0071.jpg

IMAG0069.jpg


I am also installing the dummy alarm LED's in them to flash when the truck is off. I used one of the existing holes in the base of the projector's and angle drilled it to fit the LED.
Here you can see the hole.
IMAG0075.jpg

IMAG0074.jpg

And with LED.
IMAG0078.jpg

IMAG0080.jpg

I attached the LED's with the same Silicone II that is recommended to install the projectors.
Here is a test pic with the shrouds installed.
IMAG0082.jpg

My goal is to hook both sides up to one of the flashers so they will both be flashing in sync with each other. That is as far as I have gotten so far and will update as I go. Again I am taking my time on these, so I may not have anything til next weekend.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





It was around that price, that was like a year ago. Hopefully its still the same. But just painted my inside of my shrouds engine enamel low gloss black now letting everything dry along with clear silicone.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Have some questions now.


Where do these plug into?

photo5.jpg




Plus these as well?


photo6.jpg



How does this all go together?


photo4-1.jpg
 






Have some questions now.


Where do these plug into?

photo5.jpg
Can't see where the other end goes, but I am guessing that is for your high beams.

Plus these as well?

photo6.jpg

Those are your high beams. It says to grease the plunger in the spring on the projectors and them hook them up to a 9v battery a couple times to lubricate them. I used dialectic grease.

How does this all go together?


photo4-1.jpg

There is a guide below. The bulb holder on the end (3 screws) comes off as well as the nut. The small silicone washer goes on the back of the projector before sliding it on the housing.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf/trs_tech/Morimoto_Mini_H1_Hardware_Guide_1-2.pdf
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf/trs_tech/Heavy_Duty_Bi-xenon_Harness.pdf
 






The big 3 pronged washer, big silicone washer, and the extra screws don't get used.

The metal wire attaches to the back of the bulb holder to keep the bulb in.

When every thing is in and done the black plug is for the wires on the high beam part of the projector.
 






Sweet, thanks for the links.

Another question did you guy trim off the 3 alignment tabs that are built into the headlight housing first before you tried to mound the projector into the headlight housing?



Plus here's the wires I was talking about as in to where do they go?
 

Attachments

  • photo 7.jpg
    photo 7.jpg
    46.1 KB · Views: 474






I did trim off the 3 tabs, but that was before I knew about the 9007 adapter ring. This link http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/sho...plates-for-MH1&p=382726&viewfull=1#post382726 shows the 2 different styles of the rings you should have gotten. One is for a neon, and the other is for you. That alignment ring should slide right on those tabs.

I didn't get that harness when I did mine. It looks like that plug will connect to the black plug that will go on the high beam wires that are on the projector. The spade end must be what celly was talking about cutting off and putting better plugs on to connect them up to the factory wires. Post #16 of this thread
 






Plus here's the wires I was talking about as in to where do they go?


The plug you have pictured above is for "testing" purposes.

You only were sent one right? The guys at TRS told me to use that to plug some sort of 12v source (a car battery charger in my case) to the ballasts/bulbs to make sure they work.

It can also be used to give power to your harness should you choose not to hook it up to the battery per the instructions.
 






The 2 rings on the left are the only rings that came with the kit for each projector. But from the looks of it I don't have the ring. Will I just be safe with just trimming the 3 tabs or do I absolutely need the ring for this to mount properly to the headlight housing?
 

Attachments

  • photo 8.jpg
    photo 8.jpg
    61.1 KB · Views: 477






I have the two rings that you need. Since I already cut them out I used the neon rings. I could throw them in the mail your way if you want them.

Since you bought the kit, they might be in the box separately.
 






The plug you have pictured above is for "testing" purposes.

You only were sent one right? The guys at TRS told me to use that to plug some sort of 12v source (a car battery charger in my case) to the ballasts/bulbs to make sure they work.

It can also be used to give power to your harness should you choose not to hook it up to the battery per the instructions.


I was sent 2 of those wiring harnesses with the 2 male connectors and the female plug. But makes sense and thanks for telling me that as I was like WTF, where do they go?
 






I have the two rings that you need. Since I already cut them out I used the neon rings. I could throw them in the mail your way if you want them.

Since you bought the kit, they might be in the box separately.

I'm headed home on leave either Monday or Tuesday. But my question is can I get away without the adapter rings or are they pretty much mandatory to have to have this kit fit in?


EDIT: WOW found the rings, they put them in a different box that I haven't even opened up yet for the other projector. But yeah I have 4 rings now.
 






1 x Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) (MiniH1III) = $280.00
Wire Harness Relay: 9007/9004
Shrouds 2) Mini Graphite (standard model)
Re-sealing Glue Yes please
Projectors LHD (North American Standard)
CCFL Angel Eyes No
Bulbs H1: Morimoto 3Five 5000K
Ballasts Morimoto 3Five (35w)
Adapter Plate 9007
It looks like you ordered them. Look around they should be there.

You should have the back of the projector secured and centered. You don't want them floating around on you.
 












So you didn't use the 3 tab washer? I'm trying to figure out if it goes on the inside with the projector or the outside?
 






I'm not using the 3 tab washer. Now the issue is trying to get the shroud to mount to the projector and that isn't gonna happen. It's not gonna fit.
 






For me, I had a set with the 4300k and they were a little to yellow for me. Don't know if it was the brand or not, but looked just like regular halogen bulbs in them. This set, I have 5000k and to me they look pure white.



Don't know about the hardest, but definitely the most frustrating, was figuring out how to mount the shrouds on. The fact that instructions are not included really added to that. The shrouds have threaded screw holes in them, the projectors have screw holes in them, but the two holes don't line up. Contacted retrofit and they told me they mount with the black rings that were included. Even with the rings, I still couldn't figure out how they went together. Had to contact them again to find out how they go together. Really would be a big help if they just threw some instructions in on how to assemble their parts.
I didn't trust the rings holding them on with just silicone. So I drilled a couple small holes in the shrouds and used some bailing wire just to be sure everything stays together.
IMAG0103.jpg

Was there a slight gap between the front glass part of the projector and the shroud once you had the should attached to the projector with the bailing wire?
 






Was there a slight gap between the front glass part of the projector and the shroud once you had the should attached to the projector with the bailing wire?
What I ended up doing is silicone the black plastic rings onto the glass side of the projector. When it's dry and the housings are ready, silicone the shrouds to the plastic rings that are now on the projectors. Make sure you push them all the way on. While they are still wet, install them in the headlight with the highbeam solenoid on the bottom. Get your alignment rings in and make sure the cut-offs are level with the bottom of the headlight, and snug the nut down. Wait til it all drys, the you can take it back apart to put the bailing wire on if you want.
 






I am using my phone now, but when my wife gets off the computer, I will post pics of how it goes together.
 






Got the first one together, just now read this after we got the shroud zip tied to the projector and it's def a tight fit for the shrouds into the headlight housing.
 

Attachments

  • photo 9.jpg
    photo 9.jpg
    58.2 KB · Views: 504



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Here is the guide retrofit sent me on the shrouds: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...&sig=AHIEtbRCBVGDHgp0ymVuOsi-n__4PXj53Q&pli=1

I did it a little different. The shrouds are clear because they are supposed to "light up" when the lights are on. I am guessing that is why it has such a big gap in the front of it. I removed the three little tabs on the inside of the shroud. They are really weak and come right out with just a few wiggles. This allows the projector to sit farther in, to reduce the gap at the front.

EDIT: I didn't use zip ties as I thought they might get brittle with the heat and break. Then you have broken zip ties bouncing around in your sealed headlight. Also if you have a small paint brush, you can touch up the slide marks from putting the projector in and out. But looking good so far.
 






Back
Top