Need input/advice whether I should attempt Timing Chain Replacement

[SideTrackTap]

Thanks for the input guys. Although I think the best route to go is removing the engine and replacing all the timing components now, I'm not quite prepared to take on such a task and I have a lot of other priorities on my to-do list.

Who knows, the timing components could last quite a while longer (but I'm not counting on that). In the mean time, I'll work on having a contingency plan for when things do go bad.

As for right now, I'm going to replace the main timing chain, gears, tensioner and guide and put her back together. I will report back with results.

Thank you again for all the help, I wouldn't have gotten this far without it.

Chris

 

[2000StreetRod]

4 wheel drive kit

If you purchase the primary chain timing kit make sure you get the one for 4WD instead of RWD. The crankshaft sprocket is different because of the balance shaft.

 

[SideTrackTap]

If you purchase the primary chain timing kit make sure you get the one for 4WD instead of RWD. The crankshaft sprocket is different because of the balance shaft.

I ended up ordering the 2U3Z6D256CA Kit that you have listed in your parts thread. According to the fordparts.com website it is compatible with the 4WD version of the engine.

Thanks!

Chris

 

[2000StreetRod]

2WD vs 4WD

The current outer crankshaft gear P/N for the 4WD is 2L2Z-6306-AA. The current outer crankshaft gear P/N for the 2WD is 2L2Z-6306-BA. The jackshaft/primary timing chain kit P/N 2U3Z-6D256-CA I purchased was for 2WD and included 2L2Z-6306-BA. I don't see how it could also be suitable for the 4WD. Also, the kit contained the primary chain tensioner and guide. The photo Tasca lists for the kit no longer includes the tensioner and guide.

I urge you to contact fordparts and confirm what you're getting is correct and what you want. Also, Tasca has the kit listed on ebay for $185 + $15 shipping. However, I don't think the kit fits 4WD. I've used Tasca for years. If you give them your VIN they'll confirm you're ordering the correct parts.

Edit: Frankly, I think you could get by with just purchasing the tensioner P/N YL2Z-6L266-AA for $36 + shipping. That way you wouldn't have to loosen the front jackshaft sprocket and retime the camshafts.

 

[SideTrackTap]

I urge you to contact fordparts and confirm what you're getting is correct and what you want. Also, Tasca has the kit listed on ebay for $185 + $15 shipping. However, I don't think the kit fits 4WD. I've used Tasca for years. If you give them your VIN they'll confirm you're ordering the correct parts.

Edit: Frankly, I think you could get by with just purchasing the tensioner P/N YL2Z-6L266-AA for $36 + shipping. That way you wouldn't have to loosen the front jackshaft sprocket and retime the camshafts.

Ok. I ordered from tousleyfordparts.com which forwards you to AutoNation Ford, White Bear Lake, MN. The kit was roughly $170 plus shipping. I just used the fordparts.com website as reference when you brought up the discrepancy.

But I see what you're saying regarding the crankshaft gear and the different part numbers.

I would like to just replace the tensioner and guide, but my brother (previously a mechanic) insists that the chain is now stretched and should be replaced since I already have it apart. Furthermore, if I'm going to do that, I may as well do the left cam cassette to.

I'll verify the information tomorrow and report back.

Chris

 

[2000StreetRod]

chain stretch

I agree with your brother that the chain does stretch with age. Also, according to Ford, wear patterns between the chain and the sprockets quickly develop which is their justification for not selling just the chains. However, the stretch is minimal and retards the camshaft timing relative to the crankshaft probably only a couple degrees. In my opinion the amount of stretch represents no risk of the chain slipping a sprocket tooth if the tensioner is functional.

Don't forget to order a tensioner if it's no longer included in the kit. Do you have access to the OTC-6488 timing tool kit?

 

[SideTrackTap]

Don't forget to order a tensioner if it's no longer included in the kit. Do you have access to the OTC-6488 timing tool kit?

The diagram on the Ford Parts site shows all the components you have listed under the kit part number, but then again, it seems that site may not all be that accurate with some of the specs. I'll be sure to verify. And yes, I have the OTC-6488 timing tool kit.

Thanks for the help,

Chris

 

[Drewmcg]

In my opinion, by replacing both the LH cam cassette and the primary chain/tensioner/cog, you will gain the following benefits:

• if the rattle is still there after you put it back together (and you cannot identify another soure), then you will know that you have a pending problem with the RH (rear) cam cassette;
• I realize that you visually inspected the RH cassette by removing the RH valve cover. And that often identifies a problem. But that does not necessarily mean that this cassette is not on the way out; and
• I'm with Streetrod in thinking that its unlikely that the balance chain tensioner is causing the rattle you're hearing (look how small it is, and relatively low tension).

Finally, if you want to buy some additional piece of mind re. the balance shaft tensioner, some folks have been able to replace one-half of it w/o removing the engine or the cradle, by slipping it (upper part?) out from the front (and leaving the chain and cog and lower part). Streetrod can probably shoot you a link to the thread. Good luck.

 

[SideTrackTap]

Update

Thanks Drew for the input, I appreciate it.

Along the line of Drew's suggestions, I have decided to go ahead and replace the main/jackshaft and left camshaft timing components. Really, it's silly to not do it since I'm already there, everything is apart and I have the timing tool kit. I'm just a little apprehensive about performing the timing procedure; but after reading StreetRod's writeup, it doesn't seem too complicated. StreetRod, I attached some pictures below of the main/jackshaft timing kit and it's parts numbers; I believe it's all correct for my engine (the gasket is in the cardboard under the other parts).

I have on order the left camshaft timing cassette and the balance shaft chain tensioner, unfortunately it got shipped to the wrong address and I have to wait until Monday for those parts. I will probably get the truck ready this weekend for those parts to go in on Monday.

I will look into changing out the balance shaft timing tensioner. I did find the post regarding changing it out while the engine is in the truck. We'll see.

As always, thanks for everyone's help.

Chris

 

[2000StreetRod]

similar components

Your components look very similar to the ones I purchased from Ford and installed several years ago.

Don't forget to position the outer crankshaft sprocket so the recess is near the radiator instead of the block. In your photo it is in the wrong position on the chain relative to the jackshaft sprocket. If it's installed backward the harmonic balancer will not seat correctly and the serpentine belt will keep jumping off the balancer.

 

[SideTrackTap]

Don't forget to position the outer crankshaft sprocket so the recess is near the radiator instead of the block. In your photo it is in the wrong position on the chain relative to the jackshaft sprocket. If it's installed backward the harmonic balancer will not seat correctly and the serpentine belt will keep jumping off the balancer.

Will do. I remember seeing that pointed out in your assembly write up. I'm sure I'll be asking questions and posting pictures as I reassemble to make sure I'm doing it right. I don't want to screw this up.

Thanks StreetRod.

 

[SideTrackTap]

Getting ready, have a couple questions...

The remainder of my parts won't be here until tomorrow, and now it looks like I'll be working all day Monday, so Tuesday will be the earliest I can work on an install. But I hope to get out there today and get things removed and ready to drop the new parts in on Tuesday.

Reading through the Left Cam Timing Chain install and Main Chain install write-ups, I have a couple questions...

1. Upon removal of the Harmonic Balancer, I'm sure I moved the crank a little one way or another, and the engine is most likely not 100% at TDC on the Compression Stroke. It is close, as I can see the nub on the left cam and check the timing slots on the ends of both cams, and they are in the correct position. Reading through the replacement and timing procedures, I'm getting the impression that CLOSE is good enough when replacing the components as the actual timing procedure doesn't occur until the timing cover is back on with the Harmonic Balancer to hold the crank in the correct position. Would this be a correct assumption? Am I okay to start disassembly following the procedure for replacement of the Left Cam Chain?

2. In the instructions for disassembly that came with the main timing chain kit (and others I've read), they mention removing the Camshaft Rollers, but this is not on the write-up here (at least I didn't see it). Is this just an unnecessary step from Ford that can be omitted?

I think that's all for now. As always, thank you for the help,

Chris

 

[2000StreetRod]

timing procedure

. . . 1. Upon removal of the Harmonic Balancer, I'm sure I moved the crank a little one way or another, and the engine is most likely not 100% at TDC on the Compression Stroke. It is close, as I can see the nub on the left cam and check the timing slots on the ends of both cams, and they are in the correct position. Reading through the replacement and timing procedures, I'm getting the impression that CLOSE is good enough when replacing the components as the actual timing procedure doesn't occur until the timing cover is back on with the Harmonic Balancer to hold the crank in the correct position. Would this be a correct assumption? Am I okay to start disassembly following the procedure for replacement of the Left Cam Chain?

Yes.

2. In the instructions for disassembly that came with the main timing chain kit (and others I've read), they mention removing the Camshaft Rollers, but this is not on the write-up here (at least I didn't see it). Is this just an unnecessary step from Ford that can be omitted? . .

The procedure that contains the step to remove the camshaft followers allows timing of camshafts no matter what the existing orientation of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft. Removing the followers allows all of the valves to seat eliminating any possibility of interference between the valves and the pistons as the cams and the crank are rotated to the correct positions for timing. Positioning the approximately correct crankshaft to camshaft relative positions prior to loosening the sprocket retaining bolts eliminates the need to remove the followers avoiding having to compress the valves with a special tool.

 

[SideTrackTap]

Yes.

The procedure that contains the step to remove the camshaft followers allows timing of camshafts no matter what the existing orientation of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft. Removing the followers allows all of the valves to seat eliminating any possibility of interference between the valves and the pistons as the cams and the crank are rotated to the correct positions for timing. Positioning the approximately correct crankshaft to camshaft relative positions prior to loosening the sprocket retaining bolts eliminates the need to remove the followers avoiding having to compress the valves with a special tool.

Awesome. Thank you for taking the time to explain that StreetRod. With any luck, I'll have some successful update posts on Tuesday....

Or more questions.

Chris

 

[SideTrackTap]

Some progress, more questions...

I was able to make a little progress tonight, but ran into a problem.

I was able to remove the jackshaft bolt, the jackshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and main chain and have access to the left chain and guide. My problem is the upper cassette mounting bolt with the Torx head. I sprayed it out with PB Blaster, air, and used a pick to make sure the Torx bit would seat properly, which it seems to be in as far as it will go. However, I can see the bit slipping in the bolt head. I sprayed it down with more PB Blaster and called it a night. Any suggestions on how to safely remove that bolt?

Secondly, I have a question: When removing the jackshaft bolt, it was quite tight; so tight that the crank and right camshaft turned (the crank turned maybe a quarter of a turn as did the cam). I know the crank is not at TDC now and the right cam is for sure out of time now. While I was hoping to keep everything in relative time, I'm assuming these now being out of time shouldn't be too much of an issue because there was a chance it all was going to need to be re-timed when I finish installing new parts. Would this be a correct assumption?

Chris

 

[2000StreetRod]

left guide upper positioning bolt

That bolt should not be difficult to remove. The only part of the bolt that is in contact with metal is the flange near the threads. The O ring around the head of the bolt seals it from leaking. Maybe some hard sealant was used on the O ring. You should have a new one as part of your left cassette. Are you using the correct size bit. As I recall it is T30. I always "tap" the socket extension attached to the bit with my ball peen hammer to make sure it is seated in the bottom of the head before applying torque. I also push as hard as I can against the socket drive with one hand while rotating the drive with my other hand to prevent the drive bit from "walking" out of the head.

Don't worry about the crank and camshaft rotating as long as a piston didn't strike a valve. You can time everything after the front cover is on and the balancer retaining bolt is tightened. How do you plan to keep the crank from rotating when you tighten the balancer bolt?

 

[SideTrackTap]

That bolt should not be difficult to remove. The only part of the bolt that is in contact with metal is the flange near the threads. The O ring around the head of the bolt seals it from leaking. Maybe some hard sealant was used on the O ring. You should have a new one as part of your left cassette. Are you using the correct size bit. As I recall it is T30. I always "tap" the socket extension attached to the bit with my ball peen hammer to make sure it is seated in the bottom of the head before applying torque. I also push as hard as I can against the socket drive with one hand while rotating the drive with my other hand to prevent the drive bit from "walking" out of the head.

It is a T-30 socket/bit. I just edited my above post with a pic. I'm going to try and find a more suitable bit tomorrow. I'll also use your suggestion and tap it with a hammer to make sure it's seated. I didn't try too hard tonight; I felt it was slipping and didn't want to royally mess up, so I called it a night. And yes, there is a replacement that came with the cam chain/guide kit.

Don't worry about the crank and camshaft rotating as long as a piston didn't strike a valve. You can time everything after the front cover is on and the balancer retaining bolt is tightened. How do you plan to keep the crank from rotating when you tighten the balancer bolt?

I was thinking the crankshaft holding tool from the timing kit would aid me in holding the balancer while tightening? If not, I bought a strap wrench for removal that I didn't use; I guess that was my backup plan for now.

Thanks for the reply StreetRod.

Chris

 

[2000StreetRod]

flimsy tool

In my opinion the crankshaft holding tool is a flimsy part that is only good for alignment and not sustaining significant torque. I bought a chain wrench but have never tried it. My engine was out so I just hooked a chain between a flexplate bolt and another bolt in the head. Some members have used a strap wrench. Some members have used a piece of plywood with a large hole in the center for the socket and two small holes for the puller bolts. I have some 1 inch wide flat nylon webbing from a B-52 drag chute that I could also try.

 

[SideTrackTap]

Strap wrench and torx success

In my opinion the crankshaft holding tool is a flimsy part that is only good for alignment and not sustaining significant torque. I bought a chain wrench but have never tried it. My engine was out so I just hooked a chain between a flexplate bolt and another bolt in the head. Some members have used a strap wrench. Some members have used a piece of plywood with a large hole in the center for the socket and two small holes for the puller bolts. I have some 1 inch wide flat nylon webbing from a B-52 drag chute that I could also try.

I was thinking it might be a little flimsy. I guess I'll have to experiment when I get to that point. The strap wrench might work, but my first impression is that it may be too big or awkward to use in that tight area.

And I apologize as I may have chickened out too quick with the Torx bit and bolt. I just went out there again and tried to remove the upper cassette Torx bolt using your tips and it came right out. As you can see, the guides look ok with the exception of some wear.

Pending weather tomorrow, I'll work on assembly. (unfortunately I have to work with the garage door open and it's supposed to rain all day here tomorrow).

Thank you for your help StreetRod,

Chris

 

[2000StreetRod]

good job!

It's always nice to quit for the evening after a successful effort.