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New to the forum, IAC help, please

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by Carol K, January 11, 2015.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. Carol K

    Carol K New Member

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    Hello, Fellow Explorer Owners!
    Came here to see if anyone had any advice about my 2000 explorer stalling out. (Other than what I have been reading on here :)) I can start it, but it will not idle by itself anymore. Sometimes it does but less lately. I really hate having to "two-foot" it but what can you do when you have to get your kid to school? After googling my problem I found this website! :)
    Anyway, figured it may be the IAC valve, since so many solved the problem by just cleaning it. I took a look at this
    AC valve cleaning thread (w/pics)
    http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84220

    and then got cleaning fluid, removed the IAC and sprayed it out. I let it dry. It still seemed dirty but I put it back. Started car, which seems a little better but it is still idling at such a low rpm, and it wants to quit. Seems not as bad as before but still bad. Question is, should I go to a pick n pull place to get another IAC? Or buy new online? Could it be some other issue? What would you guys do?
    Sorry so long, been worrying about this for days...
    TIA!
    Carol
     
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  3. MtrJunkie

    MtrJunkie Member

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    Is your check engine light on also? And if so do you know what codes?
     
  4. Carol K

    Carol K New Member

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    It comes on occasionally. The Fuel light comes on more often than that. Not sure about the codes, I'm kind of old school (used to chrome bumpers ;)) but I have been reading about them here.
    Doesn't Auto Zone allegedly check that for free?
     
  5. MtrJunkie

    MtrJunkie Member

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    Yes they will. I've had them check codes a couple of times before I got my reader. Wondering if this is an issue with either your pcv cracked or intake manifold gaskets. Typical codes for that are p0171/p0174
     
  6. koda2000

    koda2000 Explorer Addict

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    Most auto parts stores will check codes for free. High/low idle usually will generate a P01506 code, which is saying the idle is outside the parameters that that PCM is trying to achieve. This may be due to a bad IAC, as that's the part the PCM uses to effect idle speed. One of my trucks tends to idle too high and occasionally generates the P01506 code, however in my case the problem is being caused by a vacuum leak.

    You can pay between $20 and $80 (or more) for a new IAC valve depending on brand and where you purchase it from.

    Codes P0171/174 indicate a lean condition (too much air and not enough fuel for proper combustion) however, you shouldn't just take codes at face value and buy parts. For example the P0171/174 codes might be due to a vacuum leak, clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump. Vacuum leaks usually result in a higher than normal idle speed, or (if bad enough) stalling at idle.

    Get the codes, write them down (or get a print-out) and report back.
     
    Last edited: January 12, 2015
  7. MtrJunkie

    MtrJunkie Member

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    accidental post.
     
  8. joe doe

    joe doe Active Member

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    do you hear a howling noise from the airbox? thats a telltale sign the aic is not working right .
    cleaning is only a temp fix ,and not a fix at all if the valve is shot .
    buy a new one you will be glad you did .after you get your codes read of course to rule out anything else .
     
  9. drdoom

    drdoom Well-Known Member

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    Carol I had to 2 foot my rig once, I had inadvertently knocked the IAC rubber tee loose while replacing the serpentine. Just a thought.
     
  10. Carol K

    Carol K New Member

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    Thanks, all! Apparently the light needs to be on all the time for them to not check for free.
    Thinking of getting a diagnostic done for $118, is this a decent price? This would go towards any needed repairs...and I think Koda may be correct about the fuel filter!
     
  11. Carol K

    Carol K New Member

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    Thanks for the tip! But no it's in there good. :)
     
  12. Carol K

    Carol K New Member

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    Thanks, Joe. Maybe I will go to the up pick it place and get one before trying a diagnostic.
    (Didn't check the replies before responding before--oops--haven't been on a BB in ages)
     
  13. 1998Exp

    1998Exp Well-Known Member

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    A decent price for a 10-minute plug the scanner and read effort? I don't know, but it seems to be in the ballpark of the going rate of most shops.
    However, if you want to learn something about your vehicle and not be faced with a similar mystery next time, you may consider spending the $118 on a decent code reader instead (actually, I think that you can get one for much less...)
     
  14. MarkZ28

    MarkZ28 New Member

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    You can get a basic code reader with ability to erase codes for $40 at Autozone.
     
  15. Carol K

    Carol K New Member

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    Okay, thank you everyone for the responses!! They only check for n/c if your engine light is on...
    Went to pick n pull and got one of those IAC buggers, took it home, cleaned it up and voila!!! The car now runs on it's own!!!! So happy!!!!
    Appreciate all the help and expertise, you guys are awesome!! :)
     
  16. MtrJunkie

    MtrJunkie Member

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    Cool! Nice work! :chug:
     
  17. J_C

    J_C Well-Known Member

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    Next time, just try on a different shift or at a different auto parts store. Just because one guy at one place won't do it, doesn't necessarily mean the rest won't.
     
  18. Flash

    Flash Well-Known Member

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    What's a BB? Bourbon Bender?

    Heres my 2c, late as usual; if you have a smart phone you can download Torque Pro for $5 then buy an ELM27 for between $6 and $10 then you'll have a scanner and code reader that will do anything a code reader for under $300ish can do.

    Also, if your IAC was gooped up there's a good chance your PCV, MAF and throttle body need a clean too.
     

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