Project Vehicle - 1998 Explorer Limited

[GLOCKer]

I appreciate it, because I used to detail cars. I know how the paint can look great from a distance etc. I see the pin stripe lines still, those might be burned in too deep. Try hand rubbing along a little of that, with a clean cloth and some middle grit compound. That will remove a lot of paint, so don't rub too hard. I used to remove tons of scratches from brand new cars that had issues at dealers.

I also buffed a few Buick Grand Nationals and other T-Types, for the showroom of a John Banks Buick in 1984. The black ones were gorgeous when first put into the showroom. Then people would touch them of course, and the wiping to remove fingerprints added light scratches back into the paint. I hope I can get a paint job worthy of that kind of care again.

It's difficult for me to work on the finish of the Explorer and remember that I wont be getting it perfect. My Mustang is SHINY! I wont be getting the explorer in a comparable condition unless I repaint it; and that's not going to happen.

 

[GLOCKer]

 

[donalds]

If you want to fix the headlights
I tried everything nothing worked
I went to rock auto I ended up buying tyc headlamps I think it was around 30 bucks I also got tyc turn signal lenses assembly's both came with all bulbs installed
Parts were the same as one and look great

 

[CDW6212R]

You've got that truck in relatively great shape. It's not that bad to take care of one when most everything works, not having a long list of things to do. Starting from scratch with a basket case is tough, you just keep picking things off until it gets better.

 

[GLOCKer]

I'm a little excited; I have a mechanic friend that's going to help me on the 30th rebuild the diff. with new bearings, install new axle bearings and seals, upper control arms, lower ball joints, and end-links. And we'll be using a lift!

After that all I have left on my punch list is new brake pads, replace the brake fluid, and smooth out the 1 - 2 shift!

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent. Also install new parking brake pads, those are much easier to do without the axles in, and they run about $20. Have him adjust the parking brakes relatively tight, so the rotor drags on them when they are new. That takes a while to adjust them that tight, but that's the only way to actually have a decent parking brake. Most people will tell you these parking brakes don't hold. It's true unless they are adjusted tight.

I'm on my 2nd set of a specific Ford front pad that I like a lot. It lasted over a year with me delivering mail, and that's a big deal. I have used EBC pads a lot, those are my preference, but these Ford pads were only about $58 IIRC last year.

This time I just reordered them easily on Amazon. Now they're just $48 through a good seller, no taxes and shipped free;
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-B...utomotive&vehicleId=18&vehicleType=automotive

 

[TKZ]

That is really impressive ! I know it was a lot of hard work - but that looks great !

 

[GLOCKer]

I ordered the brake shoes today!

When I got home from work I knocked out the passenger side detailing.

 

[GLOCKer]

Today I compounded and waxed the tailgate and front end, and sanded and painted the B pillar trim. I'm really happy with how this is turning out.

While I was working on it this morning, I got a text message from a good friend of mine asking if the photos I was pasting on Facebook were of the free SUV I got. He said it was looking amazingly good and he was impressed. I've also been been contacted by a coworker who asked me if I'd barter in exchange for detailing his wife's Suburban. He used to shoot for FN Herstal and offered me a pistol in trade!

Here she is!

When I look at these photos I can't believe this was the same piece of crap truck I got for free a couple of months ago!!!

 

[CDW6212R]

Super job, congrats, it turned out great.

 

[koda2000]

Looks really good. I've always liked those wheels. What's left to be done?

 

[GLOCKer]

-polish and wax the roof
-shampoo the rear cargo area
-rebuild rear end (this Saturday)
-rebuild front suspension (this saturday)
-brake job all around
-sort 1 - 2 shift

 

[koda2000]

-polish and wax the roof
-shampoo the rear cargo area
-rebuild rear end (this Saturday)
-rebuild front suspension (this saturday)
-brake job all around
-sort 1 - 2 shift

I believe the roof rails on the '98 are the same design as on the 2000-2001. They are easy to remove to get better access to the entire roof. Loosen the knobs, slide the rail to the end of the track (front and rear) and push down on the plastic tab to slide them out all the way. I never the use the roof rack on my 2001 EB, so I've taken the rails off. This makes it much easier to get to the roof to clean and wax it. If you like you can remove the tracks too. It will leave the mounting holes, but no one can see them and they're blind nut-certs, so they don't leak.

Use ceramic brake pads on the front and you wont have to deal with brake dust on your front wheels. Semi metallic pads are good enough for the rears. I hope you don't have to replace your parking shoes. That job is a major PITA unless you remove the axles first.

 

[GLOCKer]

List keeps on growing as I think about it...
-plastidip the rear fender spats where the vinyl coating is looking gray and crappy
-uninstall ball from rear bumper
-install new Hidden Hitch
-sort wiring in driver door to make window switches work on other doors
-condition all of the leather

 

[GLOCKer]

I believe the roof rails on the '98 are the same design as on the 2000-2001. They are easy to remove to get better access to the entire roof. Loosen the knobs, slide the rail to the end of the track (front and rear) and push down on the plastic tab to slide them out all the way. I never the use the roof rack on my 2001 EB, so I've taken the rails off. This makes it much easier to get to the roof to clean and wax it. If you like you can remove the tracks too. It will leave the mounting holes, but no one can see them and they're blind nut-certs, so they don't leak.

Use ceramic brake pads on the front and you wont have to deal with brake dust on your front wheels. Semi metallic pads are good enough for the rears. I hope you don't have to replace your parking shoes. That job is a major PITA unless you remove the axles first.

I did polish and wax the roof above the tailgate and loosened the rack and slid it forward for that. Thanks for mentioning it because I forgot to move it back and tighten it! LOL I'll do the same around the front too. I actually like the look of the rack up there; it makes it look more utilitarian to me.

I ordered brake shoes for the rear. When we rebuild the differential, we'll also put in new axle bearings and seals. @CDW6212R suggested doing the parking brake so I ordered them. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the hardware inside is in good shape because I don't want to order new hardware kits. It's a crap situation: order the kits and I'll not need then but if I don't order them, of course I'll end up needing them! That's just how it works! LOL

 

[GLOCKer]

Oh yeah, one more thing to add to the list:
-clean up engine bay

I use a product called S100 Total Cycle Cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/S100-12001B-...pID=41grxIJxIsL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I don't expect my engine bay is going to clean up like my Mustangs but I can hopefully make it look a touch better!

 

[CDW6212R]

The parking brake hardware is long lived, unless corroded badly or abused by installers, yours will be okay. It cost about $8 or so as I did mine two years ago with the axle bearings etc. I reused the OEM adjusters and maybe one other component, the stock hardware is better quality than most aftermarket stuff.

Thanks Koda, that's good to hear that the rail bolt nut inserts are blind. I'm going to swap a set of Mountaineer roof racks onto my Explorer, they look much better to me. The bolts are not located in the same places in the Mercurys, so I haven't compared enough to know which if any holes do match up.

 

[GLOCKer]

The parking brake hardware is long lived, unless corroded badly or abused by installers, yours will be okay. It cost about $8 or so as I did mine two years ago with the axle bearings etc. I reused the OEM adjusters and maybe one other component, the stock hardware is better quality than most aftermarket stuff.

Thanks Koda, that's good to hear that the rail bolt nut inserts are blind. I'm going to swap a set of Mountaineer roof racks onto my Explorer, they look much better to me. The bolts are not located in the same places in the Mercurys, so I haven't compared enough to know which if any holes do match up.

I may pick up one parking brake kit from Advanced; I think it's $9.99.

My parking brakes are definitely shot. They only actually hold the car when it's in reverse. They also make the truck feel a little crappy when reversing. You can feel the brakes grinding the inside of the drum.

 

[CDW6212R]

I may pick up one parking brake kit from Advanced; I think it's $9.99.

My parking brakes are definitely shot. They only actually hold the car when it's in reverse. They also make the truck feel a little crappy when reversing. You can feel the brakes grinding the inside of the drum.

It took me about three times adjusting them on my 98 Mercury and 99 Explorer, before I got one tight enough to hold at all on a minor incline.

In my 98 Limited the last time I made them very tight, until it was very hard to put the rotors on. Those parking brakes have held fairly well on inclines, still not as good as you'd want, but far better than what they typically do(which is almost useless).

 

[koda2000]

Yes, I've found you have to adjust the parking brake shoes very tight to get them to hold properly. Replacing the shoes w/out removing the axles can be done (I've done it), but it's very difficult with the axles in the way. If I had to do it again I'd remove the axles, replace the gear oil and, while your in there, you might as well replace the LSD clutches and axle seals. You might also consider replacing the rear axle bearings if you got more than 100-150K on them.