The Black Hole

Whats In A Name?

It was hot humid august night. The winds have all but vanished. I was doing my best to keep the sweat out of my eyes. The A/C was dying in my 94 Explorer, lovingly named "Pugly", and there was no relief in sight. I decided it was time to stop throwing good money into bad. I was gonna do the unthinkable,.......I was going to commit the most heinous crime of them all! I was going to trade Pugly in for a newer model! Oh the heart break! The insanity of it all! I couldn't believe the thoughts were even going through my head.

I managed to get the old girl back home, to her resting place. She seemed at ease in her familiar surroundings. I had to come up with an explanation to let her know of my evil plan. So i just gave her that old wink and grin that she likes to see from me as we made it back home from another day of adventure in the treacherous Midwestern terrain. I did my best in hiding my cynical thoughts, as I walked around to her rear flank and gave her that little pat on her bumper, as I always have when we part for the night.

The next morning I gave her a real good bath, cleaned behind her mirrors, and brushed her grill. She still looked pretty good for her age. Oh sure she had the tell tale signs, gravity has got its firm grip on her, and I am not the best cosmetics guy in the world. she didn't seem to mind too much, she still kept her nose up and drove with pride.

After looking at many vehicles I just could not find anything that had the same feel as my old girl. Then it happened! Was I seeing a mirage? Was I so desperate to find another rig that I was blinded by insanity? I found my replacement! I quickly made a sale with the owner, and brought it home.

When I pulled in the driveway, my heart sunk as I looked into the yard to see my 94 looking at me in disbelief. She was sunning herself in the grass looking all shiny and then, she just looked away from me. My heart was tearing in two. I parked the new rig, and walked up to her and gave her a soft spoken "Hello". No reply. I tried to tickle her mirrors, no response. The tension was so great, you could have cut it with a 32 count fine tooth hacksaw. I had to explain to her that she gave me great satisfaction for many years, and we made a terrific team together, but the time has come for her to just relax and enjoy her final days. She finally revved up, and understood, her days as my work horse has ended (so we thought).

I introduced her to her daily driver replacement. The shiny new(er) next generation of her kind. The 95 Explorer XLT. She warmed right up to it. Before you know it they were swapping stories. Now I had to ask her for help. I needed a name for the new ride,
so I went to find her, and what did I see? Those two were grill to grill in the driveway. rubbing chrome! I had to get the water hose out and break them up! Sheesh, she was acting like a girl at the prom dance! I let the name thing drop for awhile.

The new(er) Ex needed to get its shots, and a physical. When I got the word on it's health, I about had a coronary. "What do you mean Doc"! I yelled. "Your kidding right"? I asked. The Doc just shook his head and gathered his tools. As he walked away, He said it had a 50/50 chance of survival. My stomach knotted up, my teeth ground, my heart raced, and I could feel the energy build up as I let it all out, "Why! Why! Why did this have to happen"! I screamed.

The prognostic exam from the doc was as such. It had a blown steering rack, the shocks were gone, the brakes were non existent, front sway bar was cracked in half, the 3rd brake light was out, none of the windows or the moon roof would work, the door locks were broke, the rear end LS clutch pack was burned up, the tires were all in need of replacement, the spare was a Firestone recall and flat, the engine had a nasty tick to it, the TPS was shot, the MAF was corroded, the battery had a dead cell in it, the hood shocks were not working, the rear hatch lock was jammed up and you couldn't open it with out a key in the lock, The carpet was stained to no repair, the rear window wiper didn't want to work, and we could not tell what year its engine swap came from. it was a mess, to say the least.

I went in the house to get my gun. I was gonna just put it out of its misery right there and then. I suddenly realized I was out of ammo, from shooting at the jeep that was in my field. I went to the computer to find a place to buy some cheap ammo, and I stumbled across this website, explorerforum.com that said it could heal any ford Explorer no matter what the problems were! I jumped for joy, I could not believe the things I was reading! I wore out the search button, asked a bunch of questions. I quickly broke out my pen and paper, feverishly writing down things as I was learning! I had found a cure for everything that was wrong with my new transport. It was a Godsend, an angel from the SUV heavens!

I sprung into action. I worked day and night, Pugly was right by my side the entire time, helping me in any way she could. I never seen this side of her, and was really amazed at how well she handled the pressure. She gently squeegeed the sweat out off my fore head with her soft wiper blades as I worked away. After an entire weekend of work, I collapsed. I needed some rest, and so did the 95. The sun crested over the hills, and awoke me to a new day. I shuffled my feet to the window facing the driveway, peeled the drapes gently back, and peered out at the 95. WOW!
It had a its color back, and was looking great! Now as the time went on, (and most of my paychecks), and the selling of almost everything I own, for funds to get the 95 to its former glory.

After some time to reflect on this name thing, I strolled up and whispered into Pugly's passenger side mirror, and she giggled with delight.

I climbed up onto the front bumper in my pajamas and robe half opened, with a cup of coffee in one hand and the daily newspaper in the other, I raised my arms with out stretched hands and proclaimed the new name of the 95.

BEHOLD...........THE BLACK HOLE!!!!!!!! (Then the neighbor yelled at me to close my robe)



The End................(or is it just the beginning?)


Actually, only some of this really happened.




View attachment 324381

 

[boominXplorer]

Mine has the bleeder connector on it. I could use it on the slave I guess. Same thing right?

No if you go through the bleeder you'll use a ton of fluid trying to get all the air out. Doing the vacuum on the cap pulls all the air out without wasting any fluid. Plus it's waaay quicker.

I'll send you my vacuum port cap / o-ring if you want to use it, just pm me your address.

Also when doing so you won't feel like you have a pedal until you release the vacuum from the resivior. I just give it a good vac for about 20 sec then try the pedal and repeat.

 

[gmanpaint]

Learn something new everyday.

Today, I learned to never use a metal Bur bit overhead, on a hot summer day.

I had to drill new holes in the bumper hitch tube, to be able to use all my stuffs for it. I got them a tad to low in the center of the tube, and needed to open the tops a bit, to allow the pin to slide threw. No biggie right?

Well, because of the way the bumper is made, I had to lay on my back, and reach up to use the die grinder. This bumper is not that easy to remove, and figured it would only take a couple mins to do this anyways.

So I am working away, it's in the 90's and feels like it's about to rain. Needless to say, I am sweating fairly good doing this. Well, I start feeling like I was lit on fire all of a sudden.
All those tiny tiny little strands of metal are flying all over me. Ever get a leg or arm full of cactus thorns? Yeah, it's like that, but all over my face, neck, chest, arms, hands, & back. Ack!! Thank God I was wearing eye protection.

So I first used the leaf blower, then the air gun, then decided that's not helping, that might be making it worse. I broke out a few different magnets, and began to pull thousands of slivers of metal out of my body. I had a small pencil size magnet I used in my ears and around my nose. About an hour of that, and then used the tweezers. About an hour of that, and took a hot steaming shower. I am still finding slivers as I type this.

Holy crap, what a lesson to learn! So kids, let this be a warning to you all.......Like Big Chief says.......Just because I'm a dumbass, Don't mean you can be too.

Oh... The hitch receiver works now.

 

[CDW6212R]

Wow, that hurts to read it. I hope your more comfortable now, and it's really good that you had eye protection.

I did something similar to shorten a trailer hitch receiver about ten years ago. I had a 275/60/17 spare tire to mount under my Mercury, so I got under the truck with my grinding bit and a sawzall. It took a while to shorten and smooth it out, and I tried hard to throw the bright spray away from me. I was in the shade and didn't have much debris on my when I was done, that I recall.

 

[gmanpaint]

The bur bit cuts diff then a grinder. It shaves off a hair like strand (think fine steel wool) the length of the bit or the width of the substrate. In this case, they was 1/4" long hair like slivers resembling spun fiber. They stuck in my body like thorns all over, and my sweat made it worse, as they didn't just blow off. I am still pulling them out this morning. LOL

So I am awaiting on USPS to deliver the shifter kit today. Once I have that installed on the top of the trans, I will begin to install it back in. Really hoping the slave cylinder was the root issue of it not wanting to go back in, and the fight to get it mated is not as hard, this go around.

I have discovered that my front Lockrite is not unlocking. I can spin the drivers wheel, and the output yolk spins with it. (Pass side axle is disconnected)
I now have to think on this with the Atlas, and if it is alright to have the front shaft turning while in 2wd. If not, then that means a front diff tear down. Not what I wanted to do with this current work.

If I do go thru all that, then that locker is being changed for ANY select-able locker that fits in the SLA D35. ARB doesn't make one for this housing, which sucks. I might end up with an E-locker, and people are telling me they fail on offroad applications. Sigh.....

This is for anybody reading this, and has some experience with this:
I am looking for opinions on the custom drivelines. Whats your take on having them made locally, from a shop that claims to know what they are doing, over going with proven online shops?
My thoughts are that a local shop is easier and cheaper to deal with in case I need further work/assistance. But the catch 22 applies here. Proven online shops should have it done right the first time, and I shouldn't have to deal with them again, but the prices are double of a local shop. It comes down to my ability to provide them with the correct info in the beginning, and that is my concern. lol

 

[boominXplorer]

You could do a manual hub conversion and leave the diff as is. The issue is the front driveshaft always spins in the ifs front end unless you have the axle disco and no locker or you swap to manual hubs. You need vacuum actuated cv's and hubs from a 98-00 Ranger and to get the available manual hub conversion .

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, those vac hubs are way too weak for what I do, and I have a manually switched disco axle. I use to be able to free spin the diff with the wheel with the locker in it. I'm thinking I have a broken spring in it. If I tear it down, I want a select-able locker, as I have always hated this auto locker.

 

[boominXplorer]

To be honest I don't understand how a perfect working ratcheting style locker would free spool with only the axle disco. There's no load on the other side to really let the locker "unlock" and spin inside itself while driving down the road. I have a torsen in the front of my ranger and I don't think it would free spool either in your situation. A selectable locker would definitely be the right fix though.

I hate driving on the streets with a rear locker but it's sooooo awesome off road, that it makes up for it. A limited slip can't compare.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, maybe the load pressure has something to do with it, I dunno. I will have somebody watch the front shaft in 2wd, as I creep along, and see if it turns or not. The T-case might give it enough pressure to stop it. I do know that if those lunchbox locker springs, are worn or broken, there is nothing to stop it from staying locked. I also know, I hate the lunchbox in the front, and have wanted a select-able for a long time. I just don't want to do it, unless I have too. Haha!

I don't even notice the rear locker in either of my rigs anymore, other then a little lane sway, when on off the throttle hard. lol

That slave cylinder must have been the issue. An hour after the shifter rebuild kit arrived this afternoon, I had the trans stabbed and bolted in.

Taking my time getting the rest of the stuff for the trans put back on, and taking a bunch of breaks as I go. It is a Sunday and a holiday after all.

 

[gmanpaint]

Gman is bored, and this is a time killing ramble of a post.....

RockAuto delivery was 2 days earlier than expected. Miracles do happen! lol

Now that i have the pre-filled master line, I can get this part of the work completed. Well, eventually, I still have that dang slave from 9-5 thing in the way. This one has a heat shield wrap on the lower line, all new bushings & O-rings. I dig it.

Been searching for a selectable locker with not much luck so far. I even talked to ARB to see if they had any intentions of making one for the 2nd gen SLA 35. They said, heck no, we won't ever make one for that "Oddball 35". Which is weird, as I thought at one time they already made one in the past, but stopped. I am most likely completely wrong on all that. Online sellers list the RD102 ARB to fit from 91-97 Explorers. Even Amazon says it will fit this rig. ARB needs to fix that, as it is false. That locker fits 91-97 TTB Rangers, and 91-94 Explorers only. Their own application chart even says it fits 91-97 Explorers. I found a thread today, where a member from AUS bought that ARB from USA because it was cheaper!! But... It didn't fit his 97. He got burned the hard way. I felt bad for the poor guy.

I called OX as the website says the D35 they make will fit in the applications chart for 95-01 Ex, all Sport Tracs too. No answer, left a message to call me back. Yeah right, like that will happen. I will try again.

Took the E-Lockers off the list, as they will be a waste of $$ on this rig. They are really just a glorified LS that uses more force on the clutch discs, and the D35 units are only good up to 33" tires. They recommend not to go over 31", as the clutches will give from the mass/torque. Looks like a lunchbox might be my only choice for a solid mechanical locker, if OX falls through. Unless you guys know of a switched mechanical locker, that I don't know about?

If OX is an option, then I have to decide on 3 styles of activation. Manual cable, air or electric activated. The manual sounds best against failure, but routing that cable into the cab, and having to operate 3 shifters already, doesn't sound appealing. Air means a pump, and is a couple hundred more. Electric might be prone to failure, but will be the easiest on operating the rig off road. A switch on the door panel would be nice. Electric motor is still $160 more than the cable, so it jacks the price to over $1k, (more then the ARB right now) and then, there is the dreaded talked about nightmare of an install. I'm not even sure if there is room for their cover on this housing or not. lol Another question to ask the rep.

Poor rig has sat so long on stands the front rotors are all rusted, and spiderwebs are forming. I must rectify this asap. If Nature holds up, I will have another weekend of wrenching ahead. Have to get that T-case in, and get them dang Shafts ordered. I want to double check with a tape measure before I do tho. I did as AA said, but in my line of work, we always measure twice, cut once for a reason. Same applies here.

Ramble Off:

 

[gmanpaint]

OK, this is kind of aggravating.

I found a simple test to perform on the master slave for air bubbles trapped in it. According to this test, you remove the line at the save cylinder, then push on the clutch pedal. If it moves at all (besides slop play), there is air in the master. If it is rock solid, and you can't force the pedal down at all, there is no air in the master, and all good.

So I did that, and my pedal is rock solid with no movement. So that sounds good from the test standpoint.

But.. If I had no air in the system to begin with, and the slave cylinder had no leaks, why was it hard to shift into 1st & reverse? Does this mean my trans has work syncro's, and needs rebuilt? That is what is bothering me now.

Should I go ahead and install the new master, or just connect the old one, then bleed the new cylinder? ARGH!!!!!! Stupid truck. My brain hurts.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Sounds like the Gman could use a vacation.

Sorry to hear about all the bad luck you've been having. I sometime wonder if the vagabonds who live out shopping carts have the right idea. No car, no problems...vacation every day!

 

[CDW6212R]

Sounds like the Gman could use a vacation.

Sorry to hear about all the bad luck you've been having. I sometime wonder if the vagabonds who live out shopping carts have the right idea. No car, no problems...vacation every day!

That sounds mighty good sometimes at work. No stress, what would we do?

Greg, I'd probably put the new MC on it, just to eliminate another possible used part deal. The parts have a rough life, keeping up with them is a full time job.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, work has me so stressed out, I am having a hard time making simple decisions on simple matters, such as this. Ironic part, is I am frantically trying to get this done to go on vacation. lol I needed the input, as I am clearly having a difficult time making the call on my own today. Thanks.

As busy as I am, taking the easy way out is awfully tempting, but I know your right Don. If I still have shifting issues with 100% of the clutch system replaced, I will know it is the trans.
I will forge on, and do it the hard way. Seat and wheel liner is coming out. Sigh...

What kills me, is even the trans shop I talked to about rebuilding it, told me I have a clutch issue, not a trans issue. This has cost hundreds of dollars, and lots of time so far, and will be extremely depressing if it acts the same as before.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

No stress, what would we do?

There is always fishing!

Hey Gman, I don't see why you even need a transmission, or a motor for that matter. Just hook some line to your mudflaps and you could sail where ever you want to go...

 

[gmanpaint]

That's just wrong.

 

[CDW6212R]

That must be a long where to no where, in every direction. Low stress for sure if that's normal transportation.

 

[gmanpaint]

After work tonight I swapped out the Master slave assembly. Took about 1.5 hrs from start to finish for me. Pedal is solid. I have yet to connect it to the slave cylinder, as I want ample time and daylight when bleeding it.

Tips for anybody that stumbles on this post about the install of a master slave assembly on a 2nd gen. This application was done with a pre-filled, pre-bled complete unit.

1) Inside work:
Remove the Drivers seat.. You might need to lay down on your back (Like me), and get your head under the dash to see what your doing with the pushrod to the pedal connection. Remove the CPP switch from the rod. To remove the rod, pry outward gently behind the rod at the connector, until it pops off. New units should come with a new rod. If not, make sure to order one, as you can't easily remove them to re-use. The new separated rod will have a new connector for the pedal already installed.
To install, Place the end of the rod into the slave gently (do not push down yet), and then connect the rod to the pedal. Once it clicks on, push down on the pedal until you feel/hear it click into place inside the master. If you don't do it this way, your going to have a fight getting it inside the master, as it will be too long once connected to the pedal. Reconnect the CPP switch.

2) Underside work:
Remove the drivers side tire & fender liner. The master fits right up against the liner, and you need to remove/install it thru the wheel well.
To remove, turn the master 45* clockwise from the outside of the firewall. Gently pull out of the firewall, and work the grommet out as you go. Remove the line from the trans, and use the fork tool if you can. It makes it easier, but a small flathead works too. Just push the nylon sleeve inward all around the connector a little at a time, and tug on the line until it comes free. To install, position the master so the trans line is at 10 o'clock, and the resi line at 4 o'clock. Push in as far as you can, and while pushing (spring wave washer), turn the master 45* counter clockwise, until it locks into place. The lines should be sitting at 9 & 3 o'clock now. Work the grommet back in by starting on the blind side first, and work your way around until it is nice and snug in the firewall.

3) Under the hood work:
Remove the PWD box (if yours is on the dr side in front of the resi) if needed for room. Remove the 2 bolts holding the resi to the fender. Some units only have one bolt, and one tab slides into a metal pocket. Place the two 10mm bolts back into the fender holes for safe keeping. Then work the fluid reservoir out and down thru the wheel well. When installing the master into the firewall, just feed the resi up somewhat, to keep it out of your way, until ready to bolt back up.

To recap:
A) Remove the trans line from the slave cylinder. Unbolt the resi. Disconnect the pedal, and remove the master.
B) Install the master. Install the resi. Push down on the pedal, check for pedal drop (master compression), if it doesn't move, your good to continue. Connect the trans line to the slave.
C) Bleed the slave. Gravity bleed, vac bleed, or gravity bleed, then 2 man pump bleed.
D) Put all your junk back together, and test that **** out.

 

[gmanpaint]

So the install wasn't that bad. A little more work than the 1354M swap.

Utilizing the scissor transmission jack, I was able to lift this 120 lb T-case with ease, and test fit it onto the tail housing. After making sure it mated flush, I backed it off, propped one side with lumber, to get the bolt alignment as close as possible. Blue RTV was used for a seal, and back it went on. The bolts provided are a little shorter then stock bolts. That PITA lower bolt that doesn't come out, unless you take the trans mount off, is no longer around.

Tightening in star pattern to get it nice and even should be done. the case is a zero tolerance pc of machinery. Thus the reason for test fitting. The output shaft on the trans can't be too long, or it push on the case, when bolting it on, and destroy it. This also voids the warranty.

From this point, next was the VSS. I routed the trans harness the best I could as to stay out of harms way, and to get the VSS pigtail in a good location. I got it next to the dr side frame rail, lateral to the speedo assembly on the T-case. Measured the distance from the connector to the speedo assembly base. Using that measure, I called Nevada Speedo, and ordered the custom signal convertor. This has a cable end that goes into the Dana 300 assembly where the 35T speedo gear is. In the middle is an electronic signal convertor, and the pigtail that will match my trans harness connector. Pricey little item. I'm still waiting for it.

There are a few bad casting marks on this case. I was kind of disappointed with that. It's like the casting person, didn't finish, or take care, and then it skipped quality control, or they didn't care either. You can see one real easy in the picture below above the speedo assembly. That screams way too busy, and not enough time to care about high quality. That's how good companies turn to crap. Hope this is just one that got away from them, and an isolated instance.

The breather tube is a 3/8 ID fuel line. It took about 6 feet to reach the upper side of the firewall inside the engine bay. I used a mini spectre air filter for it. Normal vac line is not recommended for this case, and fuel line is.

The shifter linkage was the hardest part. Keeping the full size console, forced me to make a rectangle hole in the tunnel going front to back. The Atlas shifter needs a rectangle hole going side to side. So I had to cut that hole and try to patch the other hole, well, what was left of it. I positioned the shifter linkage to get the inside shifter as close to the console as I could, without touching it. I made a mess of the carpet. It cleaned up well with some Turtle wax carpet cleaner afterwards.

I used some aluminum sheet metal, and made it form against the tunnel, covering the open sections, and screwed it onto the body. Then using some ice and water shield membrane (used on roofing), to go over that aluminum.Finally, I had some thin black carpet to cover all of it. It is not pretty by no means, but what it covers up is far uglier. lol

Now I could finally, do a real measure on the drive shafts. Front is def shorter, and the rear is def longer. I called a reputable driveline company that makes performance shafts for all kinds of racing, even Ultra4, and rock bouncers. The owner contacted me on FB, and hooked me up. We happen to belong to the same off road page for our area. Worked out well. I can get them faster, and if I have any issues, they are fairly close. Beats shipping to SoCal back n forth.

I did pay for the 4x4 switch from Atlas, but decided against installing it. I'm kind of afraid to use it, as I'm not sure what would happen with the ECM. I haven't been using one with the 1354m all this time, so.... dunno.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Time to find the biggest mountain in Missouri.....and then drive over it!

Gunna need to test that Atlas somehow before crawling up "the hard stuff".

 

[gmanpaint]

So this happened.....