The Black Hole

[CDW6212R]

Here's a link to one of those type of clamps, a picture at least. Summit doesn't carry this one now, but they are around in various sizes and a couple of brands.

Four Seasons 16868 Four Seasons Air Conditioning Clamp Fittings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Four Seasons Air Conditioning Clamp Fittings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hose Clamps at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[gmanpaint]

Here's a link to one of those type of clamps, a picture at least. Summit doesn't carry this one now, but they are around in various sizes and a couple of brands.

Four Seasons 16868 Four Seasons Air Conditioning Clamp Fittings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Four Seasons Air Conditioning Clamp Fittings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hose Clamps at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Thanks for the link. I never knew something like that existed in the aftermarket world.

 

[donalds]

Thanks for the link. I never knew something like that existed in the aftermarket world.

They work excellent

 

[boominXplorer]

As a shop owner that gets this question many times this time of the year, make sure you use pag 46 oil on every connection if you do the work. I charge a ton of people's systems and I'll say half of the diy guys are back within 3 months. My machine leak tests for 10 minutes at 30 inches of vacuum. I'd it passes, I charge it. Will those orings you installed hold 250psi? We will find out. It's always the connections that leak, rarely the items itself. All the orings need to be lubed up well. Make a mess, that way you know theres enough on it and make sure you hear the click of the snap ring. Then use brake cleaner to clean it all off before you take it in. That way problems are easy to spot. Also lay out any orings your swapping out, make sure you choose the correct thickness or a hair bigger. I usually just buy the $15 kit that comes with every oring on every job.

 

[gmanpaint]

As a shop owner that gets this question many times this time of the year, make sure you use pag 46 oil on every connection if you do the work. I charge a ton of people's systems and I'll say half of the diy guys are back within 3 months. My machine leak tests for 10 minutes at 30 inches of vacuum. I'd it passes, I charge it. Will those orings you installed hold 250psi? We will find out. It's always the connections that leak, rarely the items itself. All the orings need to be lubed up well. Make a mess, that way you know theres enough on it and make sure you hear the click of the snap ring. Then use brake cleaner to clean it all off before you take it in. That way problems are easy to spot. Also lay out any orings your swapping out, make sure you choose the correct thickness or a hair bigger. I usually just buy the $15 kit that comes with every oring on every job.

If you was closer, I would just drop it off for you. lol

I have a full set of Greenies, just need to get the proper oil when I order the other parts............. if I attempt this.

 

[boominXplorer]

Any auto parts store will have the oil. I like the little 4oz bottles. I poke 2 small holes in the foil cap and use it as a dripper to lube the connections. Compressors are usually filled with 3oz when they come. The oil in the old dryer assembly needs to be considered when refilling oil. Doesn't have to be exact, just need it close.

 

[boominXplorer]

Also get the oil with the uv dye in it if you can. Helps with later diagnosis if needed

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeppers. I have a new set of glasses and a new UV light for the dye.

 

[gmanpaint]

Welp, after a few years of trying, I finally got Bob to make me a special set of TM Headers for this rig. Sealed the deal with him a couple of weeks ago, and should have them by end of next month.

Since I am not using this rig at all currently, it means I am going to be yanking this engine out. Since I don't have a builder I know or trust around here, my thinking is to just drop a crate engine in it, and be done with it. Unless I do find someone that can just rebuild this worn out hunk of junk that's in it.

Anybody who wants to come help the old man yank this one, and drop the new on in when the time comes, I have a couple guest rooms, I will keep you fed, and your cup full. I will be posting up questions and such as I go, so useful information to help me along the way is also appreciated.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

good on the headers. i have heard guys complain about the wait on them. i got lucky and flew in under the radar and got a set from him that nobody wanted that he had kicking around. depending on how things go, if he has the other set, i might buy them just to have them. if you were closer, i would gladly help out as well.

 

[gmanpaint]

Bob had some health issues, and I won't go into details, but lets say I can deeply relate, and understand his time off. He is about caught up with older orders he said, which is a good thing for him and everyone else.

That set I had from him just wouldn't work with this rig, and it was a sad day when I let them go. Tried the OBX hoping they would work or could be modified... Nope. Let them go too. Engine work couldn't be done unless the exhaust was handled, and it was at a standstill. You can imagine how happy I am now tho. lol

Appreciate the want to help Tim, it's all good. I'm sure I will have questions here for you at some point.

 

[Rick]

Do you have a place for an RV on your property? If I ever get our Class C out of the shop I will need to take it on a maiden voyage.

 

[gmanpaint]

Do you have a place for an RV on your property? If I ever get our Class C out of the shop I will need to take it on a maiden voyage.

I don't! I Have a drive long enough, but it's on an incline too steep for a long RV. First 20 ft is flat, then changes pitch pretty drastically. Street in front of the house is an incline as well. Would need some tall levelers for that. Would be great to see you again tho!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Do you have a place for an RV on your property? If I ever get our Class C out of the shop I will need to take it on a maiden voyage.

oh i SO need to be a part of this now!

 

[traveler]

If you're going to use a crate engine, I'd consider a 347 stroker. You're rig isn't light, and neither is your trailer. A few extra horses wouldn't hurt anything.

I would absolutely love to drive out and lend a hand (Not to mention learn a few things about pulling engines from these things). I just don't think I can swing the time off. I'll see what can be worked out. Perhaps a few of us from AZ can caravan or pile multiple people in a single vehicle.

 

[gmanpaint]

If you're going to use a crate engine, I'd consider a 347 stroker. You're rig isn't light, and neither is your trailer. A few extra horses wouldn't hurt anything.

I would absolutely love to drive out and lend a hand (Not to mention learn a few things about pulling engines from these things). I just don't think I can swing the time off. I'll see what can be worked out. Perhaps a few of us from AZ can caravan or pile multiple people in a single vehicle.

Yep, that's the reasoning behind this. BH needs MOAR Ponies!! Budget is going to determine what I can afford to get Crate wise. The 347 Stroker setup is about $8k after all is said and done. That's pretty fricking steep compared to a rebuild with a bigger cam and matching goodies. Last I checked, the $$ printer isn't working.

I only have 2 spare rooms with 1 bed each, so how you all sleep is up to you. But come on down!!!!!

 

[CDW6212R]

If I was doing that for a heavy truck with rpm's nothing like a high strung engine, then the majority of parts could be much cheaper. You do not need some of the really expensive stuff, but you do need a trusted engine builder. Someone who slaps stuff together is not worth any amount of money, and the parts store sources will have some of that(poor quality control, random lemons).

My 347 was just under $5k back when Woody would build a stock block 302 based engine. The costs have gone way up, the bigger and best heads now run close to $2k alone. You can find decent heads that are under $1500, but I'm not sure of flow numbers, or if they all require roller rockers.

I'd spend good money on the builder and thus machine work, with a stock block, but better heads, pistons, and camshaft. You would benefit greatly with heads that flow 230cfm at least(stock are under 190cfm), but ideally you'd want something that doesn't require roller rockers(likely 95% do). Roller rockers are louder and can be installed poorly(louder and wear faster). The 347 is a great place to begin, but finding a solid block given how rare they are becoming, might be hard. The stock intakes flow 260cfm, the stock heads are under 190cfm and that's the biggest engine bottleneck. The exhaust is a known issue, and the intake elbow is hard to improve.

Decide on fuel, how much will it be driven etc. If it might be driven a tons, and/or you need the cost savings, limit the compression for regular gas(obey what the cam designer tells what the compression can be). If premium is doable, then the compression can go to the 10:1 level or a little more. The right cam can make the engine smooth and reliable with no big issues of tuning, but that's only really possible with a custom cam made for the vehicle combination. Plan it from the start, and the extra cost is minor, say $200 give or take.

The SOHC V6 takes regular fuel with the stock 9.7:1 compression, if a person changed those cams the wrong way, the engine would ping badly and have to be retarded. The cams are a big reason the SOHC runs well with regular fuel, and no big gain from premium.

 

[gmanpaint]

If I was doing that for a heavy truck with rpm's nothing like a high strung engine, then the majority of parts could be much cheaper. You do not need some of the really expensive stuff, but you do need a trusted engine builder. Someone who slaps stuff together is not worth any amount of money, and the parts store sources will have some of that(poor quality control, random lemons).

My 347 was just under $5k back when Woody would build a stock block 302 based engine. The costs have gone way up, the bigger and best heads now run close to $2k alone. You can find decent heads that are under $1500, but I'm not sure of flow numbers, or if they all require roller rockers.

I'd spend good money on the builder and thus machine work, with a stock block, but better heads, pistons, and camshaft. You would benefit greatly with heads that flow 230cfm at least(stock are under 190cfm), but ideally you'd want something that doesn't require roller rockers(likely 95% do). Roller rockers are louder and can be installed poorly(louder and wear faster). The 347 is a great place to begin, but finding a solid block given how rare they are becoming, might be hard. The stock intakes flow 260cfm, the stock heads are under 190cfm and that's the biggest engine bottleneck. The exhaust is a known issue, and the intake elbow is hard to improve.

Decide on fuel, how much will it be driven etc. If it might be driven a tons, and/or you need the cost savings, limit the compression for regular gas(obey what the cam designer tells what the compression can be). If premium is doable, then the compression can go to the 10:1 level or a little more. The right cam can make the engine smooth and reliable with no big issues of tuning, but that's only really possible with a custom cam made for the vehicle combination. Plan it from the start, and the extra cost is minor, say $200 give or take.

The SOHC V6 takes regular fuel with the stock 9.7:1 compression, if a person changed those cams the wrong way, the engine would ping badly and have to be retarded. The cams are a big reason the SOHC runs well with regular fuel, and no big gain from premium.

Like I mentioned, their isn't any engine builder around me, and I am not entertaining the idea of sending it somewhere, or sending the rig either. I will sell it as is, before I go through that crap again. For now a crate engine with a mild build is still the course of action. Unless some local Ford builder falls from the sky, a swap with a built engine is my choice. I tried to get a builder a couple hundred miles from me, but after 2 years of him dodging me on this, I give up.

A 347 doesn't have to be a stroker by no means, and with a good cam, heads, and the headers should give me all the HP I need for towing the trailer up a hill. That's all this is for, nothing else. 300 HP will work, but I rather have 325-350 if possible without a stroker. I am fairly certain this stock 302 with a 92 oct tune is pushing around 175 ponies at the most. Sounds low right? Well it's also from 1998, choking exhaust, with 125k miles on it. it can still do fine without the trailer for the most part, and in low range it's a beast on the trails. Doubling the HP will be amazing for it.

 

[Turdle]

I'd like to be in on this also. I'm going to try damn hard to be able to.

Edit.
Cam choice should include high elevation needs, imo


That's where you'll need it most. Just my 02

 

[gmanpaint]

I'd like to be in on this also. I'm going to try damn hard to be able to.

Edit.
Cam choice should include high elevation needs, imo


That's where you'll need it most. Just my 02

That would be sweet Jon. Hows your back?