Need Advice on Supercharging

Anyone have any experience on supercharging the 5.0L? After all the intake and exhaust work I have done and and tuned by Henson Performance (Thanks
James) my little motor still strains to push 2 plus tons down the road. I guess I should clarify that once I'm up to speed it perfoms great. The engine is strong and the truck will go faster then I care to(again thanks to James at Henson Performance for removing the speed limiter). I'm just looking for more power off the line(Damn Civics) and supercharging seems to me to be the best option. I don't want to tear into the engine (thats for another day). So I thought I would ask you all about doing this. I have been researching and can pick up an Eaton M90(rebuilt) for a decent price but the question I have is since I have the internal EGR is this an option? I have seen the one (weiand?) on explorerexpress and it wont work with the internal EGR and there is no way I could afford the $3800.00 anyway. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[CDW6212R]

Advance Auto had a grooved pulley that was slightly larger than the OEM idler at the bottom. The stock part is rather small, so I'd suggest something near in size to the smooth pulley that you are working with.

BTW, what drives the 2nd belt for the supercharger?

 

[rwenzing]

BTW, what drives the 2nd belt for the supercharger?

Powerdyne supplies another stock Ford lower damper/pulley that has been machined smooth inside to provide a mounting surface. A new 6-rib aluminum pulley bolts to the modified factory damper/pulley using the 3 original puller holes. That aluminum pulley drives the blower.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ah thanks Bob, it must set low to get past the fan blades then. I'm about to pull my fan to build an electric fan replacement.

 

[zachow3]

From Powerdyne's site:So, they didn't supply the 6-rib pulley in the kit? I guess that's no surprise.

There's a ton of different diameters of 6-rib pulleys used on Ford vehicles that all have the same zero offset and use the same center bolt setup. You'd just have to do some research at a good Ford parts department. I'd be looking for something maybe 3.5"~4" diameter. Or maybe you could use the smaller idler that was at the bottom of the discarded factory FEAD bracket on the passenger side - not sure if that one is large enough though.

After you get the pulley figured out, you might also have to experiment with belt length if the pulley diameter isn't a close match to Powerdyne's design intent.

That pulley is pretty small. I didnt measure it but it is smaller than the smooth pulleys included in the kit. Their all about 3" in diameter. The kit does have enough pulleys to do the install, it's just that they are all smooth, so I wonder if the ribbed pulley might be of similiar diameter. I think I need to have another chat with the folks at Powerdyne. They probably dont make thier own pulleys and perhaps, since last I talked with them, they said they were "ramping up" their Mustang kits. Perhaps they use that pulley in other kits or at least can give me spec's or their distributer.

 

[zachow3]

Advance Auto had a grooved pulley that was slightly larger than the OEM idler at the bottom. The stock part is rather small, so I'd suggest something near in size to the smooth pulley that you are working with.

BTW, what drives the 2nd belt for the supercharger?

Here's a couple pics. The outermost (Larger) pulley drives the S/C.

 

[Turdle]

Where did that come from? Sorry, I was too excited to read back in the thread--

I like-I want-

 

[zachow3]

Where did that come from? Sorry, I was too excited to read back in the thread--

I like-I want-

That is the harmonic balancer and pulleys that came with a Powerdyne supercharger kit I purchased. I,m still shy a few parts but hopefully soon the next time you see it will be with it installed on my Explorer.

 

[rocket 5979]

Ah thanks Bob, it must set low to get past the fan blades then. I'm about to pull my fan to build an electric fan replacement.

Powerdyne supplies an extender nut that will push the fan closer towards the rad and give the extra pulley for the blower room to fit in there.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ah, the fan has some room left in front of it.

 

[zachow3]

Powerdyne supplies an extender nut that will push the fan closer towards the rad and give the extra pulley for the blower room to fit in there.

So that is what that nut is for. I thought maybe they included it in case you (meaning me) destroyed the original one while trying to take it off. Without everyones input, and no thanks to the installation manual, figuring all this out by myself would take, well... Hell, I probably would of never figured it out and sold the kit in frustration. Oh and thank you Powerdyne for promply NOT returning my e-mail about the elusive missing ribbed pulley.

Anyway I came across an interesting article ( well I found it interesting anyway) about a fuel additive that promotes fuel combustion with virtually no exhaust emissions and claiming 10% to over 30% MPG increase. Like no one has ever heard a claim like that before. Anyway I know it's off topic but thought it would make interesting reading. There is a couple videos too. I just need to dig it out and will post it here shortly.

 

[zachow3]

Here it is:

http://www.savethis.clickability.com/st/saveThisApp?clickMap=link&webPadID=K220934745

I,m not starting a new thread, just thought i'd share for your enjoyment or critisism.

 

[zachow3]

Back on topic, I found a shop with a dyno not very far from my house. I called ond spoke with a really nice gal about my Explorer and what I intended to do with it performance wise. She was impressed, thought the idea of a sleeper truck was pretty neat. I guess up here in the Northwest they dont see to many " soccer mom" SUV's. I'ts not a 4 Wheel dyno but apparantly there is a 4 wheel dyno available somewhere nearby that can be leased for the time used. I want to keep my AWD but would it be ok to remove the front driveshaft so I can use a regular dyno ? I,t would be cheaper and i'm all about cheap.
Also she asked what spark plugs I intend to use. I'm currently running NGK 7164 Iridium plugs (not my choice,I had a shop go over my entire engine and thats what they picked at $12.00 a pop). Truck runs great with them. Had them out once when I installed The TM headers and there unlike any spark plug I,m familiar with. I didnt mess with them, just reinstalled after the headers went in, but apparently they are not the best choice for boosted engines and the gap should be smaller. We didnt talk actual numbers so I dont know what plug or gap would be ideal yet. More research for me.
Pitty, those plugs only have maybe 4K miles on them.

 

[CDW6212R]

The best plugs really are just a new plug, properly gapped. They simply must survive the chamber environment. People spend way too much money on spark plugs. For those who do not ever change plugs(they go 100k miles or never), they can do high dollar platinum/gold etc.

For boost I gather that .030 or .035 is about the best gap. For normally aspirated you should aim for about .054 inches.

I suggest that you go to an AWD dyno if at all possible. The AWD trucks don't perform quite as well with the front shaft out, some of the power is lost through the output shaft still. I have my front shaft out now till I swap to 4WD, my truck does not pull like a 2WD truck.

 

[justin146]

The best plugs really are just a new plug, properly gapped. They simply must survive the chamber environment. People spend way too much money on spark plugs. For those who do not ever change plugs(they go 100k miles or never), they can do high dollar platinum/gold etc.

For boost I gather that .030 or .035 is about the best gap. For normally aspirated you should aim for about .054 inches.

I suggest that you go to an AWD dyno if at all possible. The AWD trucks don't perform quite as well with the front shaft out, some of the power is lost through the output shaft still. I have my front shaft out now till I swap to 4WD, my truck does not pull like a 2WD truck.

I use cheap Autolite copper plugs. Only use an AWD dyno if it is synchronized. If it is not, you could bomb the transfer case.

 

[CDW6212R]

... Only use an AWD dyno if it is synchronized. If it is not, you could bomb the transfer case.

That's excellent advice, I can see the affect. If the two rollers were not locked together, they could create differing resistance, which would be like tires of differing diameters. Regards,

 

[zachow3]

I use cheap Autolite copper plugs. Only use an AWD dyno if it is synchronized. If it is not, you could bomb the transfer case.

The guy I bought the Explorer from threw in a set of spark plugs that he bought but he only installed one because he tried to change them from the top of the engine and couldnt get to the others. I think they are Autolights but my garage is so cluttered I need do a little digging around to find them. So then maybe I will only need to by one spark plug. The one he did manage to install went bye bye when the Iridiums went in.

I will definitely follow up on the dyno. With most everything computerized nowadays all it might take is the push of a button to accomodate any vehicle.

Justin, I see you have a 2000 Sport with a 5.0? Did they come with that engine or did you do a swap. A turbo 5.0 Sport, that must have some very impressive merging capability. Good thing I live a couple thousand miles away. No way I could compete with that.

Dont see much progress on the Explorer this Holiday weekend. I have to work Saturday and Sunday, and Monday all my neighbors congregate for a barbecue. All three food groups...Meat, Alcohol and more Alcohol.

Still waiting for my fuel pump to arrive. I ordered it about two weeks ago. But it did include free shipping so it's probably at the bottom of the priority list.

 

[justin146]

The guy I bought the Explorer from threw in a set of spark plugs that he bought but he only installed one because he tried to change them from the top of the engine and couldnt get to the others. I think they are Autolights but my garage is so cluttered I need do a little digging around to find them. So then maybe I will only need to by one spark plug. The one he did manage to install went bye bye when the Iridiums went in.

I will definitely follow up on the dyno. With most everything computerized nowadays all it might take is the push of a button to accomodate any vehicle.

Justin, I see you have a 2000 Sport with a 5.0? Did they come with that engine or did you do a swap. A turbo 5.0 Sport, that must have some very impressive merging capability. Good thing I live a couple thousand miles away. No way I could compete with that.

Dont see much progress on the Explorer this Holiday weekend. I have to work Saturday and Sunday, and Monday all my neighbors congregate for a barbecue. All three food groups...Meat, Alcohol and more Alcohol.

Still waiting for my fuel pump to arrive. I ordered it about two weeks ago. But it did include free shipping so it's probably at the bottom of the priority list.

Mine is actually an "XLT Sport", which is a 4 door XLT with the Sport appearance package.

 

[zachow3]

Took a picture of my powerdyne in a mirror to give a little more perspective. The double bladed intake fan intrigued me. I work on turbine aircraft all the time but have never seen anything like this.

I have question about a wideband. I have an SCT Livewire already that will accept 2 analog inputs. I want to monitor air/fuel ratio and boost. I can monitor 6 parameters at any given time, so its like six guages in one and mounts to my windshield right now. Though I may get a dash mount.

So I need a duel sensor and cable that will hook to the Livewire. The LC-1 seems to fit the bill but it is rather expensive. Still looking into that.

My question is where is the best location for the A/F and boost sensors. My rear 02 sensors are turned off (aft of the primary cats) and this would be an ideal location, but from what i've read the A/F sensor should be installed before the cats. What about for measuring boost? Where would be an ideal location to mount that sensor?

Does anyone in the supercharger crowd have pictures of their installation so I can get some ideas? It's all the little details that I need assistance with.

Hope everyone is having a great Memorial Day weekend.

 

[reserved50]

I just used Champion coppers 2 ranges ? cooler since thats what I throw in every non N/A car . I used a AEM gauge with singe wide band O2 drilled into the exhaust after the first cat.

these pictures are just random and useless for your install, so they might not make sense .

I used PowerDynes instructions and this is what ended up happening

just kidding


I dont see how you will set the tension on the blower idler pulley, wheres the slack adjustment bolt?

 

[rocket 5979]

Took a picture of my powerdyne in a mirror to give a little more perspective. The double bladed intake fan intrigued me. I work on turbine aircraft all the time but have never seen anything like this.

I have question about a wideband. I have an SCT Livewire already that will accept 2 analog inputs. I want to monitor air/fuel ratio and boost. I can monitor 6 parameters at any given time, so its like six guages in one and mounts to my windshield right now. Though I may get a dash mount.

So I need a duel sensor and cable that will hook to the Livewire. The LC-1 seems to fit the bill but it is rather expensive. Still looking into that.

My question is where is the best location for the A/F and boost sensors. My rear 02 sensors are turned off (aft of the primary cats) and this would be an ideal location, but from what i've read the A/F sensor should be installed before the cats. What about for measuring boost? Where would be an ideal location to mount that sensor?

Does anyone in the supercharger crowd have pictures of their installation so I can get some ideas? It's all the little details that I need assistance with.

Hope everyone is having a great Memorial Day weekend.

You can get the analog cable from James Henson. Or you can just cut a 6 pin Firewire cable up and use that since it is the same thing.

The LC-1 wideband is one of the least expensive ones out there. Most any other wideband you get will cost more. There are many options for widebands. I will be installing a AEM wideband and boost controller into a customers car this next week so that will be my first experience with AEM products. So far from my reading it looks like a REAL easy wideband and gauge setup to install. I am looking forward to seeing how quick it goes.

Get a GM 3 bar MAP sensor Part #12223861 to log boost with. I have created detailed wiring instructions for doing a nice datalogging cable for the wideband and MAP sensor to attach to that will plug into the Livewire so once you are ready to do the analog input configuring I can be a huge help to you there. I can also provide you with the custom analog formula I created for the GM 3 bar MAP for use with the Livewire too. Shoot me a PM when you are far enough along to need this info. Good luck and have fun with the install.