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Solved Ford Explorer 5 speed conversion - Going Full Manual

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
Well what the heck is this other set of wires for on the pass side of the trans?

m5passsideconnector2.jpg

m5passsideconnector1.jpg


Scuse me while I break down for a little while, and :banghead:
 



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Looking at the exploded diagram of the M5OD:
2581774610089462589S600x600Q85.jpg


#12 - Reverse switch
#14 - Housing Rubber Plug
#15 - Interlock Pin
#16 - Interlock Pin
 






Well what the heck is this other set of wires for on the pass side of the trans?

I would like to know too! I just put an 01 tranny in a 91 and the tranny that came out had those wires and the 01 didn't. Doesn't seem to be affecting anything unhooked. But I do have a CEL, dunno if it's related, haven't checked it yet and I did a motor swap at the same time so it could be that




#12 - Reverse switch
#14 - Housing Rubber Plug
#15 - Interlock Pin
#16 - Interlock Pin

I thought #13 was the reverse switch? It has a ball that looks like it's depressed when in reverse.
 






Yep sorry, #13 should be reverse switch.

Can you post up a pic of the driver side and the wiring pigtail.
 






Got under a 95 Sport manual this morning and learned a couple of things.

The set of wires coming off the pass side were not there and had a rubber plug on the trans for it. I will leave the wires coming off the trans alone. Still have no idea what its for.

The green O2 connector on the trans harness was not there (95rangers only), so I will leave it alone and use the stock pass side going to the engine harness.

The trans harness does in fact have the same large black connector joining the engine harness on the pass side. It also has the same 2 pin connector on the dr side of the trans, and the same oval / blue center connector on the harness.

I was able to see how the CPP was connected to the slave master rod on the clutch pedal assembly. Pretty straight forward.

The slave master reservoir mounts to the dr side inner fender close to the hood, close to the master brake cylinder.

That should be enough to get me going on this. :)
 






Yep sorry, #13 should be reverse switch.

Can you post up a pic of the driver side and the wiring pigtail.

Which brings back the question, what is #12? My 01 tranny has a boss there but is not tapped for a sensor. I can't see what it's for, a manual tranny doesn't require a single wire to function. The reverse wiring is just to run lights, so what purpose could #12 have?


Are you asking me or gman for the pic?




The trans harness does in fact have the same large black connector joining the engine harness on the pass side. It also has the same 2 pin connector on the dr side of the trans, and the same oval / blue center connector on the harness.


Going to the electric shift t-case?
 






I'm thinking that, depending on the application, the sensor could be tapped into the left side or right side for the reverse circuit.
 
























Replacing the stock rubber plugs that leak and kill these transmissions. Dorman expansion plugs part #555-108

Remove the old rubber plug with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers. Pry out and don't let anything fall inside.

removerubberplugs.jpg

removerubberplugs2.jpg


Using a 3/8" socket 3/8" drive with a long extension, tap the new steel plugs in gently a little at a time, until they are seated just past the top surface.

3_8sockettoinstall.jpg

555108installed.jpg


This will save the trans from leaking the fluids out the top and prematurely destroying it.
 






That mystery sensor on the passenger side is a neutral switch. They were on the m5od up until 95. 95 and newer trans do not have them. Dont think they really had a purpose as it will start in gear with the clutch pressed down.

What year is that tranny?
 












That mystery sensor on the passenger side is a neutral switch. They were on the m5od up until 95. 95 and newer trans do not have them. Dont think they really had a purpose as it will start in gear with the clutch pressed down.

What year is that tranny?

You are very correct. I pulled my CEL codes and sure enough, I have a 67:

Park/Neutral circuit fault
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault
 






It is a 94 as far as I know.

Hmm, so now I wonder if a CEL is going to be thrown or not w/o the neutral switch hooked up. I mean, there is nowhere to hook it up to...lol

Ok, I didn't get the trans in yet. Life kinda got in the way today. I did manage to get it prepped most of the way, except the pedal assembly is fighting me all the way. I have all 4 nuts, and both bolts off. I even took the brake pedal off the bracket thinking it would give me more room to work with.

The problem is the cable/rod for the power booster is in the way, the bracket for the steering column is in the way, and it just wont move to where it will get over the end of the brake rod.

Anyone have a trick for this? Or do I really have to drop the steering column to get this off?

I see NO CPP stashed up in the dash either. I am just going to use the BOO, an call it good.


Oh...and I have to reroute all the wires going thru the firewall grommet where the slave has to go. That is going to be a small nightmare in itself :(
 






Shouldnt throw a code without the neutral switch hooked up. You have a 95 computer correct? The 95's didnt even have the neutral swtich so you can just leave it unhooked with no side effects what so ever.
 






I did manage to get it prepped most of the way, except the pedal assembly is fighting me all the way. I have all 4 nuts, and both bolts off. I even took the brake pedal off the bracket thinking it would give me more room to work with.

The problem is the cable/rod for the power booster is in the way, the bracket for the steering column is in the way, and it just wont move to where it will get over the end of the brake rod.

I removed the lower plastic dash panel and the steel panel behind it and used a 2' extension to remove the 4 nuts from the brake booster studs and then had to lay on my back to get to the remaining 2 bolts that go up into the dash support/fire wall.

With the 4 booster nuts off and the booster rod disconnected from the pedal assembly, you should have enough play in your brake lines to pull the booster forwards off of the firewall enough to give you the room you need.
 






Shouldnt throw a code without the neutral switch hooked up. You have a 95 computer correct? The 95's didnt even have the neutral swtich so you can just leave it unhooked with no side effects what so ever.

Sweet! :)

Yes there is a 95 manual ECM going in.
 



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The plug for the CCP is not very large, maybe 2" x 0.5" with around 6 wires, and should be tucked up some where near the e-brake pedal.
 






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