Size of the oil filter?

[dcdyd]

Just did my first oil change for 98 EB which has run 105k. And found out that the oil filter previous used is shorter than the one from FRAM I brought. The previous used one is from TEC Selelct and was installed by the shop. It looks to me that TEC Select is 25% shorter than FRAM.

Do everyone has this experience? Are they working the same way? If yes, why FRAM prefer to use more material for longer one? Or is TEC Select doing something weired for saving the cost?

 

[Joe Dirt]

First off, I wouldn't use FRAM as a quality benchmark.

Second, what engine?

 

[dcdyd]

5.0L, I have installed FRAM filter. You suggest that I get Motorcraft?

 

[Carguy3J]

There is nothing wrong with Fram oil filters. I don't understand why there is such an anti-Fram sentiment on this forum. I use the Fram Tough Guard filters in everything (That's the silver/grey ones). I've never had a single problem with them, in anything, including a dirt track stock car with a small block Chevy that saw 6700rpm on a regular basis. Yes, I've heard of people "bursting" filters, but that has to be at insanely high oil pressures, and/or on extreme motors.

 

[Joe Dirt]

It really depends on the Fram. The EG's are ok filters. The orange cans suck out loud, I'd never use a filter built as cheap as that orange tin cup. I ran nothing but Motorcraft filters and oil on my drag Mustang for 4 years that saw similar RPM's and extreme conditions and never had a problem, it's all subjective.

CLICK ME

ANOTHER

One of the mods on rangerpowersports posted this letter:

Well, after having a fram filter separate after being on the 2.3L for only 3000 kilometers, and the subsequent knock the ranger developed shortly there after, I'd never wish fram on anyone. I still have the filter, and there's goods rattling around in it, hoping someday there will be a class action lawsuit against Allied Signal, howvever......This letter dashed them hopes considerably. I still hope someone will though.



I worked for two years as the oil-filter production line engineer in
an Allied-Signal FRAM facility and I can confirm every bad thing you
have said about FRAM automotive filters. That's from the horse's
mouth, as it were.

I'm also a quality engineer and can confirm that FRAM applies no
quality control whatsoever to any of the characteristics for which we
buy oil filters. I frequently saw filter designs which were barely
capable of meeting J806. Many of FRAM's designs will block and go to
bypass after trying to filter very little contamination. There were
often leakage paths at the paper end discs when these were not
properly centered on the elements. Some designs had the pleats so
tightly packed against the center tube that they would block off in no
time. I had discovered that the FRAM HP1 that I had been buying for
about $20 Cdn was EXACTLY the same as a PH8 inside - the only
difference being a heavier can - no advantages in flow capacity. The
paper filtration media was of apparently poor quality and the process
of curing the paper resin was very inconsistent - elements would range
from visibly burnt to white. FRAM's marketers admitted that there was
just about no way the public could ever prove that an oil filter
contributed, or did not prevent, engine damage. The only thing FRAM
tested for was can burst strength. Another problem that they have from
time to time is in threading the filter base - often there are strands
of metal left behind on a poorly formed thread.

I have not used a FRAM filter since I started working there. Their
claims are entirely and completely marketing bull****.

If people really want to protect their engines, a good air filter is
vital (which excludes FRAM from that list as well) and a combination
of one depth and one full-flow hydraulic filter, together in parallel,
will do the job of filtration to perfection.


[name omitted to protect submitter]

dcdyd, I know it's a grain of salt with letters like that, but the other issue for me personally is that with a sideways mounted filter on my 5.0, I want an anti-drainback valve- and that's why I run my Motorcraft filter. Just my preference.

 

[SoNic67]

From other forum.
Fram filters:

Motorcraft filter:

 

[dcdyd]

Wow, didn't know there was so kind of difference. I thought that FRAM should at least follow manufacture's specification for manufacturing these items.

 

[dcdyd]

Here is the comparation of the two filters I mentioned in the beginning.

 

[2000LXS]

If you can cut them open and take a look I use Pur 1 when they are on sale and motorcraft when they are not.

 

[Joe Dirt]

The Pure-One is a good filter, only difference (Motorcraft is a Purolator filter) is that Purolator builds the bypass valve on the top for the Motorcraft filter, and on the bottom for the Purolator branded filter. Doesn't much matter on a sideways filter, but for a vertical, top is preferred. The Napa Gold filter (Wix) also has a top ADBV.

1) anti drain back valve
2) Top bypass valve
3) metal end caps
4) real compression spring

What you don't want is the cardboard end caps, which can, and have documented cases of collapsing. CLICK

 

[bcbid]

I quess a picture is worth a thousand words. that pretty much confirms it.

 

[2TimingTom]

Yeah, Fram's are crap. The reason for the "anti-Fram sentiment" is for good cause. Sure you can use it and not have problems, but you can also play Russian Roulette and not put a bullet in your brain.

I've too have used Frams on passed cars that had lots of miles on them without problems- but that was before I knew the difference. Now I use Wix.

 

[2000LXS]

If you type oil filter on youtube there is a ton of video's on them.
Somewere i read that acdelco had a good one and cheapend it up like the fram so beaware just because a filter was good a few years ago it may change.

 

[SoNic67]

I used to buy ONLY Fram filters. Till somebody said something bad about them. I was trying to prove him wrong and... I had my jaw drop when I saw the crap I was using in my cars.

I am all for third-party parts - spark plugs, oil, shocks, filters... but with Fram I am done.

 

[GuardianSport]

The Mobil 1 filter I used last was substantially larger than the Frams and Quaker States I've used before that.

 

[alohamonte]

I use the K&N oil filter and so far it like it. It has a huge capacity, is heavily built, high flow rate, and is made for use with synthetic oil which I use. It's also a wrench-off which makes installation that much easier - no special tools. Stock up when they come on sale.

 

[2TimingTom]

I never actually used the hex fitting on the K&N filters that I've used. If it's on that tight, it's too tight.

 

[alohamonte]

The hex is there so you can use the same tool for the drain plug and filter, just saves a tool. It's not there to torque the crap out of the filter.

 

[2000LXS]

Put an oil filter on a pt cruiser or 2004 hyundai santa fe and you will wish you had that nut there. There is in no room for your hand and bearly any for a tool to go up there.

 

[2TimingTom]

Hmmm..... I guess the only time I've ever used a tool on an oil filter was because I was taking off a filter that a quick lube place put on. In standard practice, I snug it down so the seal is making contact and tighten it another 1/4 turn.

And why would you want to change the oil on a pt cruiser? I think I'd drain the oil, fill it with sand start it up.