Delta current e-fan controller owners chime in please

[albi1cnobi1]

I think our trucks could be twins. Very nice Ex.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Sorry for the delay with the pics, I just finished working a double. Here she is, not as clean as yours. Ashamed to admit I haven't washed her since early winter. I think it's time for a little tlc.

 

[adambant]

Thanks for the pics. Twins indeed, we even have the same april inspection sticker haha.
You're right, it definitely looks good with the stock size tires. TT and shackles will be my next mod. I looked through a lot of the "lifted with pictures" threads the other night. I don't know if I'll ever have enough wheeling time or oppurtunity to justify doing it, but from all I have read and seen, and IF I ever go beyond the TT and shackles, my eventual "Lift of choice" would be:

TT and shackles, 3" body lift, and 33" tires, just not sure what rim.
How about you Al?

I see tons of people have the Soft crager 8's, but I don't think I'd like them on my truck.

Btw, considering you haven't washed your Mounty all winter, it looks pretty good. The rain has helped you out :

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Yeah that last soaking helped me out. I don't like the soft 8's either. I saw a set on a Jeep I liked in a parking lot, I waited but the owner never came out so I'm not sure what they are. I've been searching the web but haven't found them yet. I'm thinkin 2" BL and 32's.

 

[rego]

I have a white one too. Are we off topic?

 

[Xeek]

UPDATE: mine finally works!

when i got it the fuse holder was already spliced to the 4pin harness of the controller and wrapped with tape. the wire fell out of the splice but stayed in place due to the tape, but didnt make contact anymore.
i finally noticed it and respliced it and now it works!


spal is a great company to deal with. he took my controller in for free, modded it for free. mine was to old to do the trick you did with yours. everything came down to bad wiring and then i finally found the bad wire.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

That's good news. You'll love your e-fan,no more clutch fan roar when accelerating. You will feel the difference in the engine as well without the added drag of the fan. Good luck with it.

 

[adambant]

Glad to hear Xeek! Yes, now you can enjoy an almost completly silent cooling fan.

Did you install a status LED in the ****pit? I would recommend this. I did, its very nice to know when its running, also just to keep an eye on it, especially in the beginning to make sure its all safe and sound under the hood.

+1 on Spal being a great company to deal with, my experience has been A+

Adam.

 

[Xeek]

no, i might when i do my wiring exactly how i want it done. but i can tell when its on anyway. only if my windows are down and i stick my head as far out as i can when idle at a light or whatever. my trucks to loud it hear it any other time.
i watch the temp gauge constantly also

 

[Scuba-Matt]

I had one years ago, it died, I was told 'get lost'.

It took forever to get (on the order of MONTHS).

Personally, I'd go for the SPAL controller..

I had a similar experience.
I Had a DC controller on my 04 Lightning, the controller shorted out while my Lightning was in the driveway, I was lucky to see the smoke, and puled the battery cable. I almost lost my Lightning due to Brian B's POS controller. I tried to get a hold of him to see what he thought the problem was, He never replied. After 2 weeks I posted what happened on NLOC, Brian B started a war with me. He said his controller could never short out. And I was bashing him. I only stated the fact of what happened. I wouldn't recommend a DC controller to my worse foe

 

[4pointslow]

Quote:
If you are haveing issues with a NON spal fan, and are SURE you wired it correctly, proceed with the following AT YOUR OWN RISK:

remove the fan diagnostics by the
following sequence.
>
>Hold the enter button down for 12 to 15 seconds and then one of the LEDs will
flash indicating the change in command. Turn off the ignition (or disconnect
power from the orange lead) wait 10 seconds and reconnect ignition lead and
restart unit. This should eliminate the error codes.
>
>Caution: Since the fan diagnostics are disabled any problem with the fan will
result in damage to the controller.
>


Thanks for the great information!
I have a few questions, please help if you can.
1. Was it a red LED or Green one that blinked after holding the enter button for 12-15 seconds?
2. Did it just blink once or stay blinking?
3. Is there a way to prove that the diagnostic feature is turned off like unplugging the sensor wire and making sure a code 1 doesnt show up?
4. How do you turn Diagnostic Mode back on, By restoring back to defaults(presssing enter and program together for 10 seconds)? Or can you follow same procedure for disableing diagnostics?
5. Anybody try running a relay to supply a ground to the fan motor, bypassing the Spal for a back up in case it craps out? (It seems as though the power goes straight through the spal and the ground is PWM, so providing temporary ground by means of switch and realy might be a good back up)?
Thanks for any insight.