Planning a 5.0 Overhaul

[TekMan05]

Good Deal! I can't wait to see the end result of these parts. Are you going to have it dyno'd or have james tune it by data-logging?

James is going to have me data log it. I'm new to how the data logging works have you guys had experience on how it works? I already bought the new tunes and he sent a base tune to get me started. After the truck is back up he wants me to record some data for him

 

[celly]

James is going to have me data log it. I'm new to how the data logging works have you guys had experience on how it works? I already bought the new tunes and he sent a base tune to get me started. After the truck is back up he wants me to record some data for him

Just plug your laptop into the flasher, and the flasher into the OBD port. The software is available on the SCT site. You basically start collecting data while driving and then save a file into an Excel type document and email it to James. He does the rest.

It was a very helpful process after I came back from KS three summers ago and the truck ran like crap. James tried to isolate the problem and did a lot of tweaking to the tune in the process.

At the end of the day, I had a leaky gasket so no amount of tuning would make it go away, but the process was pretty cool.

 

[TekMan05]

Still waiting for the heads and lower intake -_- .

 

[TekMan05]

Ok I still have to wait til Monday to pick up The heads because the shop was closed but ny machinist did bring them up to do the clay test. The valves clear (thank God) . I shouldn't even need new push rods. BUT, 2 setbacks have occurred. Somehow during the shipping of my spring kit I lost a spring lock. The other is the poly lock on top of the rocker won't clear the F150 valve cover oil splash baffles. I may be able to notch those hopefully. Sorry no pics this update but look for some once the engine goes back in. I have my base tune to fire up The engine so I can do some data logging.
Stay tuned.

 

[ExDude]

 

[TekMan05]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

You may already be aware of that site on proper break in procedure, but posting it just in case.

Basically:

1.)Cheap mineral oil
2.)High load, like starting (from a stand still) from the bottom of the steepest hill you can find in 2nd gear and WOT to 5,000rpm and then let it decelerate to 2,000rpm while still in 2nd
3.)Change oil and filter after 20 miles of this beating.
4.)Run mineral oil for the next 1,500 miles doing as many oil/filter changes as you see fit
5.)After that, run whatever synthetic you like and have fun!

or in other words, beat it like a trailer queen and it will love you forever...

I would suggest getting one of those oil filter magnets and/or neodymium magnets and stick them under the oil pan as close to the drain plug as possible to catch all the metal "shavings" that come from break in as the oil filter by itself will never be able to catch it all. When you do the oil change, remove the magnets from the bottom of the pan before pulling the drain plug so the metal particles will come out with the old oil, then stick um back on. You could also get a magnetic drain plug, but they are not as strong as neo magnets.

Good Luck TekMan!

::Edit::

One problem I see is getting the tune right vs. doing the proper break in. The first hour of the engine running is the most critical time for break in. If you end up putting the motor around trying to get the tune right during the initial break in, you will lose your opportunity to acheive max ring seal. As long as the tune is not in the danger zone, I would get her broke in first ASAP and then deal with the fine tuning later (after the initial 20 miles).

BTW, what rings did you install, cast or moly?

I'll have to double check. I just know they were the most premium ones I could get from the parts house. But I just emailed Ed about get more valve locks because I can't fire her up until then. Also about the oil change break in, I got the royal purple break in oil for it. Should I wait and use that after the initial break in (20mile) and use cheaper oil for the start up first? Then use the Royal Purple break in afterwards then followed by the normal synthetic after that?

Edit- also on the magnets, you know if the parts house carry them or they by order online only? One more question about the valve covers. Will the new ones be ok having the oil fill on the drivers side now? the new pass. side has a breather filter on it also because it had an orifice hole in it where the original Explorer one's didn't just an oil fill.

 

[ExDude]

 

[TekMan05]

I would use the cheap oil for the initial then throw in the RP for the next 1,500 miles (if your only going to do one change).

You should be able to pick up the Neo magnets at a hobby shop or if you have and old Hard Drive sitting around, break it open and use those. There on Evilbay too.

The hose from the valve cover to the intake hose is an integral part of the PCV system. You could find some 93-95 cobra valve covers as they were meant for 1.7's and just modify the oil fill tube so it routes around the intake hose (hack off the top part where the spin-on cap would go and install the Explorer fill tube.)

BTW, PAC or FTI should send you a new one for free if it didn't come with it, unless that was the reason for Ed to sell them discounted, which He should have told you before hand.

My friend was thinking about just routing it across the engine for that part and having it meet onto the intake tube, would that work? Because the oil fill on the F-150 covers still has the nipple on the side of the oil fill neck for a hose to attach to. It's just the fact the oil fill will now be on the driver's side instead of the passenger side. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=304943&page=4 post 74 At least temporarily. And on the hard drive part I'd have to see, my friend's brother specializes in computers and always has a ton of them sitting around. I'll see what I can do on that.

 

[ExDude]

In that case, as long as the vacuum hose is hooked up, you should be good to go.



::Edit::

OH! And on the break in, use the best oil filters you can find. (to me, Amsoil EA)

 

[Turdle]

I think there was some confusion when I suggested valve covers to you. The reason I suggested the special "truck efi" valve covers was to keep the oil fill and vent in the stock locations. The reversed holes will be a huge issue, as the egr tube and PCV hole will interfere with each other. You will need a 90 degree elbow right off the pcv hole, at the least.

Ford racing parts has the truck efi covers, which keep the pcv and oil fill at the same locations. "Most" ford valve covers are reversed from what you need.

 

[ExDude]

 

[TekMan05]

Hmm it would of been nice to known that sooner. I won't be able to get new covers even ordered until thursday which will put this back another week yet again. We're working on her right now and about to put the block back in. So there's no way to make these work at all?

 

[ExDude]

 

[TekMan05]

Like Turtle said, the fill tube will not fit on the passenger side because the EGR tube is in the way, and it wont fit on the driver side because of the intake.

No mustang buddies who might have some covers laying in the garage?

How much of a clearance issue are you having with the stock Ex covers? Could you just beat them out where they are hitting with a BFH until you get some better ones? Just a thought...

Honestly I don't know any fox guys personally or that could get me some covers that quickly. Now granted I haven't tried the stock covers but I can almost guarantee that the rockers won't clear them If they're touching the baffles on the F-150 ones then the Explorer's surely won't. Oh on the EGR situation the fill isn't on the back. It's still on the front of the engine just on the driver's side that's all if that clears anything up for you guys.

 

[ExDude]

 

[TekMan05]

Hmmmm. Looking at some more pics, it just might clear the intake. There is also a AC lines that runs through there. I guess we will all find out when you get her mocked up.

True that. Things tend to be clearer once you get closer to having it set up. And Ed replied he's going to try to get some locks sent out tomorrow. BUT...I'm gonna try to see if I can get some around town first depending on price and if they'll fit. The block is already back in and hooked to the tranny. So we're making progress. Now to take a dip at the local pool Catch you guys later tonight!

 

[ExDude]

.

 

[Limited02]

Hey, how much would you say you have into your heads. From what I understand, you had the following done:

Cleaned
New Guides
Guide Plates
5 Angle Valve Job
Ported
Milled
Machining for studs and new studs
Machining to spring pockets for beehive springs

Is this correct? Should be a pretty nice set of P's when all is said and done.

BTW TekMan, this native is going to get restless soon without some more pics...

This guy is onto something..................

 

[TekMan05]

Sorry guys I had to use another computer to load the pics because for some reason my usb wasn't picking up the connection between the camera. But here's the pics from yesterday. BTW, they're still working on my heads :thumbdwn: .I appreciate them trying to get everything perfect but got dang I wish they wouldn't keep telling me they're gonna be ready this day and when that day comes they're still working. So I still don't know just yet what the final price is going to be for their work. I know my actual machinist was saying $375 and then whatever the shop charges for use of their machines at their shop.The spring kit ExDude costed me a little over $500. The guide plates came with my rocker set. That was $200. The cam with shipping was $335. The new tunes were $140 with the discount. The gasket kits and other miscellaneous parts probably around $800-900. It's getting close guys but the reason why I was hoping to have everything ready now was because my friend is shifting shifts at his job which is going to make it difficult for both of us to work on this at the same time. I want to be here when she fires.

 

[TekMan05]

Thanks Jon for the balancer again. This was from Eric's(Techieman33's truck)