Planning a 5.0 Overhaul

[TekMan05]

Thank you turtle.

How much much hp would porting the lower intake (between to intake and heads?) should gain?

It's going to be hard to predict how much power I'm going to make from that. Also consider the other factors. The heads are being worked as well. 0.018'' shaven off, The new valve-train components with the beehive springs, Scorpion 1.65 Rockers, adjustable guide plates, and the custom camshaft. Not to mention I'll most likely gain back a little bit of restored power and compression as well. The A/F mixture is gonna have to rich en up from the increased amount of air entering now.The engine definitely turns tighter after replacing the lower end rings and bearings than compared to turning it after we pulled it out. I kid you not the block and lower end parts like the timing cover was solid black from all the sludge oil on the engine(Outside). That was due to the pan leak which probably cause a lot of oil to get caught up on everything which could heat things up. The crank pulley was completely sludge soaked to the point we didn't even see the holes to stick the crank puller on.That creates heat and drag So the engine is definitely going to feel fresh and rejuvenated to say the least. Although I'd have to say the inside still looked new as heck!
The only way we could somewhat guess the power upgrades is to either find an AWD dyno or run it at the track and compare the times to a baseline run 5.0 Explorer. I can't even begin to throw numbers out on something with this many different variables changing.

 

[TekMan05]

Please tell me I can JB weld this part. :thumbdwn:

 

[Limited02]

Please tell me I can JB weld this part. :thumbdwn:

What happened???

 

[TekMan05]

What happened???

Honestly I have no clue. I can't remember if it was like that when I picked it up from the shop or not. I just noticed it while painting it.

 

[ahodges]

That's just the threaded hole that holds the fuel rail in place. I would think that some type of epoxy/ J.B. Weld would work. I does seem too deep to cause a leak or anything.

 

[TekMan05]

Alright I just went and applied some. Luckily it doesn't look like the crack is on the inside of the thread fortunately. Gonna wait til the Weld dries then paint over it. I always get more cautious handling these intakes. Aluminum is very sensitive stuff. BTW, my new springs has shipped. HOPEFULLY I'll get them here by the end of the week so I can take them to the shop. After that The heads should be good to bring home

 

[TekMan05]

Ported lower intake painted a lovely brilliant silver

 

[TekMan05]

Heads are back!

Finally got the heads back. Gonna clean them up and shoot some paint on them tonight and start working on putting things back together tomorrow! As long as they're no more setbacks involving ordering or parts from the internet. Look for a fire by the end of the week possibly. Keeping fingers crossed. :notworthy

 

[TekMan05]

This is for you pic hungry guys

 

[Turdle]

Looking good Thomas. I can't wait to hear this thing run.

 

[TekMan05]

Looking good Thomas. I can't wait to hear this thing run.

Thanks Jon. I been waiting 4 months now to have her back up. Hopefully soon. Geoff had to cut out the valve cover baffles to clear the Rocker poly locks. So I may need to use an oil separator for the vacuum line coming out of the oil fill tube side.

 

[TekMan05]

I'm wondering if I'm gonna need longer pushrods afterall. from the side of the head they look straight on. From the front of the engine or the side of the valve train they don't look completely flush in the center of the valve tip. It's slightly on the inside of the engine side.

 

[Turdle]

I found this article right quick. Looking for a better one.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-engineering-tech/469270-rocker-arm-geometry.html

 

[Turdle]

http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_1010_pallet_style_rocker_arm_geometry/viewall.html

The important thing to remember is the contact point actually moves, as the rocker arm makes an arc. If the rocker is inside, you are "under arcing" and do indeed need a longer geometery, ( move the pivot point out)

 

[TekMan05]

http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_1010_pallet_style_rocker_arm_geometry/viewall.html

The important thing to remember is the contact point actually moves, as the rocker arm makes an arc. If the rocker is inside, you are "under arcing" and do indeed need a longer geometery, ( move the pivot point out)

Hmm....Well I don't have the tool right off hand to measure push rod length. someone told me to cut a stock one in half and insert a thread as a cheap alternative. I do have a few extra push rods laying around. Jon let me post a pic so you can maybe help me out better here hang on a few....

 

[TekMan05]

 

[Turdle]

yep. A longer pushrod will move the rocker tip outward. You will need to back off the rocker arm nylocks and level the rocker arm. Then measure the difference between the pushrod tip and rocker arm, add this to the length of your current pushrod. this will get you close to the length to look for.

 

[TekMan05]

yep. A longer pushrod will move the rocker tip outward. You will need to back off the rocker arm nylocks and level the rocker arm. Then measure the difference between the pushrod tip and rocker arm, add this to the length of your current pushrod. this will get you close to the length to look for.

Okay cool, kinda sucks I have to wait once again. But I want this thing to run strong and run strong for a LONG time. So this will be worth it. If I remember right my stock push rod which is what I was using was about 6.25'' and 5/16'' diameter or somewhere close? I wonder if summit will have anything that'll work because I know they ship pretty dang fast and would arrive sooner than going through flowtech. Thanks Jon!

 

[TekMan05]

Okay, I did the marker test. Which is marking the top of the valve stem with a marker and setting your rockers and spining the engine. I opened and closed the intake, and exhaust valves about 8 times to get a good imprint. This is what it looked like afterwards. From this angle it "looks" almost centered. What do you guys think? I don't want to fork money on pushrods I MAY not end up needing but I don't want to go forward until I know that I'm not jeopardizing my engine with too short of push rods neither.
It should also be noted that the roller does come over the center as lift begins. I'll also try this again and snap a pic of it at mid lift and full lift.

 

[TekMan05]

Hey guys been busy. Geoff helped me reset the guide plates and rockers to now they sit better. My earlier pic was at no lift. It centers when reaching mid lift. He felt comfortable with them. I'll post pics but we are cranking tonight. Keep your fingers crossed for us guys!
Guys I need your advice on how to drive and break her in.