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5.0 Cam selection

TekMan05

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City, State
Kansas City
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 XLT 5.0 V8
Hey I need some advice from those who have cammed their 5.0 Explorers. I am in the process of overhauling my motor see thread here ----> http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=304943&page=3 I was going to go with a custom camshaft from Flowtech Inductions http://www.flowtechinduction.com/fordcams.htm . I even got a Beehive spring kit from them with an 1.80'' installed height. Plans for the engine were relatively mild outside valve train modifications. My goals weren't high neither as far as Power build. Just a nice refresh with work to the heads (Port/polish gasket match lower intake, cut the spring pockets for 7/16'' rocker studs, and a mill of .010'' or .018'' for a little more compression, have to double check with the machinist) Since I bought the spring kit I haven't been able to get in contact with FTI. THey just stopped replying to my e-mails so I had to search else where for my camshaft and rockers. I wanted custom but I will go for a specified cam for my application as long as it will run and run reliably. This is a DD truck so streetable is a MUST. I just want a balance of that with sound&performance.
Here's 2 other cams I got specced for today for my application from another manufacturer who I will not name yet to eliminate biased responses.

1). 35-351-8. Duration @.050 218/224 Lift is .512/.512 with a 114 LSA - This cam the tech support said was the best he could provide since I'm reusing factory pistons. Although he also said if I want more sound that they also could provide that same cam with a 112 LSA. $298 including the shipping.

2). 35-512-8 which specs at 206/212 @.050 480/480 114lsa.

This cam has a wide powerband with lots of torque and mid-range power.

It has a smooth but noticeable idle and great economy.



The cam and lifters combo runs $489.76 with free shipping in the U.S.

So if I Was to choose between these two cams , what would be the better fit for my setup? I still need a good set of Rocker's to go with this as well and can the pushrods be re-used in my setup also?
 



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The first cam is kinda radical. The 114 degrees might tame it down a tad. That one will potato at idle.

This is a tough choice, but since you have the mustang and reliable daily driving is the goal, I think the second cam will make you smile and be less of a tuning headache.

You will probably need longer pushrods, but I would ask the camshaft grinder to be sure.
 






What gear ratio are you running and tire size and do you wheel the truck? Both cams will work well and stick to the 114 LSA if you go with the larger cam. Also, if you do go with the larger cam make sure you check the piston to valve clearance. A .512 lift with the stock valve reliefs and a .018 mill will probably be close.
 






What gear ratio are you running and tire size and do you wheel the truck? Both cams will work well and stick to the 114 LSA if you go with the larger cam. Also, if you do go with the larger cam make sure you check the piston to valve clearance. A .512 lift with the stock valve reliefs and a .018 mill will probably be close.

I got the stock 3.73 gears AWD and factory 255/70/16 wheel setup. I was kinda wondering with the head work if I may run into pTv clearance issues. If it does indeed become an issue what would be a viable option? New pistons or modification to my factory pistons?
 






No need to buy the lifters too...not on these motors. Maybe take them down, and clean them. But no need to replace them.

Ryan
 






I got the stock 3.73 gears AWD and factory 255/70/16 wheel setup. I was kinda wondering with the head work if I may run into pTv clearance issues. If it does indeed become an issue what would be a viable option? New pistons or modification to my factory pistons?

Your only choices if you don't have enough clearance would be to replace the pistons or have the factory ones notched by a machine shop.

If you don't plan on doing a complete engine build I'd go with the smaller of the two cams.
 












I don't know anything about cams. All I know is that I called up comp and they recommended a 35-349-8. It seems to work fine but I don't have any dyno data. Everything internally is stock aside from the cam and springs.
 






The 35-349-8 also has a .512 lift just with a little less duration. It's in between the two cams TeKMan05 listed and would also be a good choice. At least we know it doesn't hit the valves since you've been running it.
 






I had to bump up the idle speed a little bit, because it is a little rough at the stock speed. The antenna still gets a good vibe when the truck is idling at a stop light.
 






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I would prefer the first cam if I knew it would clear. I'm gonna bring all 3 of these specs to my machinist when I pickup the heads and get his input too. My motor is already disassembled now so getting them notched to clear shouldn't be a huge issue I'd think. Seeing as you're running a similar cam as a DD how are the characteristics of it? Power, lope, etc? I don't mind chop since my Stang already does now. I would welcome an aggressive idle so long as it doesn't dog down low where it counts.
 






It isn't a terribly aggressive cam in terms of idle characteristics. I just bumped my rpm up because once the engine is totally warm it gets a little rougher since it idles lower.

Check out this video I made not long after I completed my engine swap. This is with a completely stock pcm tune. No rear cats and manaflow dual in/out with side exit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZtfPRiT1lQ

It does great off the line but I felt that when I ran the 1/4, once you got above about 60mph it wasn't accelerating very fast. This may just be a power vs aerodynamics or transmission gearing issue though. Check out the 1/4 vids to see if you can get a feel for how it behaved by listening to the shifting. It seems like after it shifts out of 2nd its a bit of a dog. This was with a henson tune. Yes I got owned by a del sol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EuH-yy5Su48
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0heqEcLY2D0
 






I remember watching this a while ago. Impressive none the less. And even my truck starts to dog out past 65 or in 4th gear. It may be transmission related and aerodynamics Like you said. I wonder how much grunt I'll gain with a cam like this and the rocker and head work combo? Is be perfectly happy if I could crack 15.9 with my setup with the AWD. My best is a 16.3 and considering these trucks stock run in the 17's that's quite an improvement especially without a blower. Jon even though you had a 347, where did your power band peak at?
 






That run was 15.33 @ 89 mph. It was a warm day (for a Minnesotan). Probably a cool day for you.

This was with stock tires, 4.10 gears, AWD. I think I pulled the spare tire, but no other gutting. I have since almost gone 2wd and installed 3.73 LS rear end. I just need to get that transfer case out of there.

I would think you could break 15.9, but I don't know how much the gears change things. I assume you have the 3.73.
 






Yes it's the 3.73 LS Diff. Maybe since you had the 4.10 gears it winded up quicker.
 












So what studs am I going to need from here?
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...C&Product_Code=HT_STUDS&Category_Code=RARMACC I know it's going to be 7/16'' base diameter. But what base and stud length am I going to need?

Also unless anyone really says otherwise I'm going to go with the Ultra Pro Magnum rockers Ford; 7/16" Stud, 1.6 Ratio

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...uct_Code=1632-16&Category_Code=UltraProMagnum

Base length will match the depth of the threads into the head. It needs to torque tight before bottoming out. Your machinist knows this. Off the top of my head though the 7/16 base .750 depth sounds right. Do not quote me on this though.

Do the rocker arm specs will show the stud length??
 






Base length will match the depth of the threads into the head. It needs to torque tight before bottoming out. Your machinist knows this. Off the top of my head though the 7/16 base .750 depth sounds right. Do not quote me on this though.

Do the rocker arm specs will show the stud length??

Not that I see on their page. You're right though, my machinist should know this. The heads were supposed to be done over this weekend. So I'm hoping they'll be done tomorrow so I can pick them up.
 



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Quick question. I'm at the pull yard, would the metal fans from a '98 explorer work as a replacement to my plastic ones?
 






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