Is the power steering rack bad?

[dklimek]

Vehicle: 1996 Explorer SOHC
Mileage: 130,000

The car started making typical tell tale signs of a bad power steering pump, so we replaced it a couple of months ago. Everything went well, put in all new fluid and it was back on the road with no issues. About a week ago it's started groaning, hard to turn a low/no speed, shuddering, etc. We had to put a autozone rebuilt pump in the car so I assumed it went bad, but I didn't have time to look at it so my gf (her car) took it into the stealership. They are saying it's a bad rack, any way to actually diagnose this?

Any feedback on where to get the rack from? Any tips before I tear into this?

 

[Lube]

Any feedback on where to get the rack from? Any tips before I tear into this?

Lots of rebuilt racks on Ebay for < $200.

 

[dgallant]

to rack or not.

Vehicle: 1996 Explorer SOHC
Mileage: 130,000

The car started making typical tell tale signs of a bad power steering pump, so we replaced it a couple of months ago. Everything went well, put in all new fluid and it was back on the road with no issues. About a week ago it's started groaning, hard to turn a low/no speed, shuddering, etc. We had to put a autozone rebuilt pump in the car so I assumed it went bad, but I didn't have time to look at it so my gf (her car) took it into the stealership. They are saying it's a bad rack, any way to actually diagnose this?

Any feedback on where to get the rack from? Any tips before I tear into this?

 

[dgallant]

My truck was doing the same shuddering thing when I would be moving slowly in a parking lot or turning into my driveway.
When the rack started leaking I figured I would change the rack and hopefully stop the shuddering at the same time.
The new rack is in and the shuddering is still there ,
If I were you , unless the rack is leaking I would look closer at the pump you replaced before I spend close to 1000.00 dollars to replace the rack.
Dan

 

[my98nnj]

Don't over look a weak belt tensioner or even a glazed or dried out belt. Both of which can slip causing the PS issues.

 

[dgallant]

Don't over look a weak belt tensioner or even a glazed or dried out belt. Both of which can slip causing the PS issues.

very true I haven't looked closely at the belt its a serpentine( don't know if that is the correct spelling for it) or the tensioner but before I do anything else with the steering I will have a good look.

 

[Abbondanza]

I had a bad leak in the high pressure line that fed my 96 XLT rack (it was spraying out right at the rack) which for three weeks soiled my driveway and had me adding a pint of PS fluid every other day.

I replaced the rack myself ($135 at autozone), but getting the rack out was a major effort, you really have to contort and fight it, which I had to do from my back on the ground (no lift). Getting the new one in is also a good fight, but because you see the rack come out, you know it can get back in there. The good news is it can be done, although I agree if your rack isn't overtly leaking, I doubt that it's the point of failure, especially if it only happens at low/no speed, that is indicative mostly of engine speed...so I would say rev the car in park and see if you can turn the wheel freely, then you'll know it's a belt or pump issue.

Good luck.

 

[dgallant]

I had a bad leak in the high pressure line that fed my 96 XLT rack (it was spraying out right at the rack) which for three weeks soiled my driveway and had me adding a pint of PS fluid every other day.

I replaced the rack myself ($135 at autozone), but getting the rack out was a major effort, you really have to contort and fight it, which I had to do from my back on the ground (no lift). Getting the new one in is also a good fight, but because you see the rack come out, you know it can get back in there. The good news is it can be done, although I agree if your rack isn't overtly leaking, I doubt that it's the point of failure, especially if it only happens at low/no speed, that is indicative mostly of engine speed...so I would say rev the car in park and see if you can turn the wheel freely, then you'll know it's a belt or pump issue.

Good luck.

Paid $254 for my rack and total cost was $954.00 at CT.
Pays to do your own work if you can.

 

[splodo49]

you can tell if the pump is working. how long has the system ran? it is strange but sometimes fords take forever for a air bubble to get out. If you bought a new pump (which is some times bad) it could be the pump but if your still seeing exactly what you seen before i would shoot towards the rack. If your rack isnt leaking or you have checked the boots for fluid. Plus if you didnt flush out the rack then you just drove all the debris from you old pump into the new one. Which probably makes them both bad in the long run.

 

[dgallant]

you can tell if the pump is working. how long has the system ran? it is strange but sometimes fords take forever for a air bubble to get out. If you bought a new pump (which is some times bad) it could be the pump but if your still seeing exactly what you seen before i would shoot towards the rack. If your rack isnt leaking or you have checked the boots for fluid. Plus if you didnt flush out the rack then you just drove all the debris from you old pump into the new one. Which probably makes them both bad in the long run.

Went for a drive earlier today seems like you may be right about the air bubbles, seems to be good while doing low speed turns now, no shuddering.

 

[fast_dave]

Fast, simple and proven method to bleed air from your Ford P/S Pump & Steering Rack.

1) Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of these:

2) Go to your local hardware store, and buy a rubber stopper that will fit (but not get sucked into)
your power steering fluid pump's filler neck.

3) While at Harbor Freight or your local Hardware Store, buy a barbed brass air line connector
that will go completely through the rubber stopper.

* Drill a hole through all the way through the center of the rubber stopper, and insert the barbed brass air line connector.

* Connect one end of the vacuum pump air line to the barbed brass connector, and the other end straight to the Vacuum Pump.

* Remover power steering pump cover/dipstick, make sure your p/s fluid level is full, and insert the rubber stopper into the neck of the pump.

* Start the engine, pump up to about 12 - 14 inches of vacuum on the vacuum pump,
and then turn the steering wheel full lock left/full lock right while watching the gauge on the vacuum pump.

* If air is present in your p/s fluid, you will see the needle drop on the vacuum pump, and you will hear a pleasant change in your p/s pump noise/groan.

* When you get the air out of your pump & rack, the shuddering effect will stop.

* When you remove the rubber stopper, you will see little air bubbles on the top of your p/s fluid in the pump reservoir = SUCCESS!

* Through the years, you might have to do this once in a while if you sense p/s shuddering.

* NOTE: If you turn your steering wheel w/o the engine running, you can introduce air into your p/s system.

Hope that helps!

 

[dgallant]

Fast, simple and proven method to bleed air from your Ford P/S Pump & Steering Rack.

1) Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of these:

2) Go to your local hardware store, and buy a rubber stopper that will fit (but not get sucked into)
your power steering fluid pump's filler neck.

3) While at Harbor Freight or your local Hardware Store, buy a barbed brass air line connector
that will go completely through the rubber stopper.

* Drill a hole through all the way through the center of the rubber stopper, and insert the barbed brass air line connector.

* Connect one end of the vacuum pump air line to the barbed brass connector, and the other end straight to the Vacuum Pump.

* Remover power steering pump cover/dipstick, make sure your p/s fluid level is full, and insert the rubber stopper into the neck of the pump.

* Start the engine, pump up to about 12 - 14 inches of vacuum on the vacuum pump,
and then turn the steering wheel full lock left/full lock right while watching the gauge on the vacuum pump.

* If air is present in your p/s fluid, you will see the needle drop on the vacuum pump, and you will hear a pleasant change in your p/s pump noise/groan.

* When you get the air out of your pump & rack, the shuddering effect will stop.

* When you remove the rubber stopper, you will see little air bubbles on the top of your p/s fluid in the pump reservoir = SUCCESS!

* Through the years, you might have to do this once in a while if you sense p/s shuddering.

* NOTE: If you turn your steering wheel w/o the engine running, you can introduce air into your p/s system.

Hope that helps!

Thanks;
Dan