Dana 44 Identity?

[BKennedy]

Or, maybe I will just do this.............

 

[Stic-o]

Or, maybe I will just do this.............

You do that and I can't wheel with you anymore. ..sorry

 

[BKennedy]

Hey, I figured a station wagon is the same as a mini-van.

I am going back to the bone yard to pick up the 8.8 out of the 97 Explorer that donated its leaf springs to me a few months ago for the rear disc brakes. I am going to look at the air intake and see if I can pick the whole thing up for cheap. If I can make it fit and it still looks OEM, then I should be good to go. Did not remember what the seats looked like, but if they are good and the right color, I might get them also. My seats are trashed.

 

[BKennedy]

I found these shock towers from Artec that should do nicely. It should save space over a shock hoop type setup. The tower without the cut-out is 14.5 inches tall. That should give me plenty of length to trim it to fit.
http://www.artecindustries.com/Shock-Tower_p_346.html

 

[Stic-o]

I found these shock towers from Artec that should do nicely. It should save space over a shock hoop type setup. The tower without the cut-out is 14.5 inches tall. That should give me plenty of length to trim it to fit.
http://www.artecindustries.com/Shock-Tower_p_346.html

Just make sure you add support behind them or better yet add a engine cross brace.

 

[BKennedy]

I was planning of gussets on both sides, and an engine cross brace. I am basing my measurements off of Dave's Ranger (DB_1) . If the shock mounts are close to the same length, then I know a 14" 2.0 Fox coilover will fit, since that is what he has.
First, I need to make the air box off a 95-98 fit, and add the vacuum line and sensor for the air temp gauge. I talked to my smog guy today and he says that if it is from a newer model same engine, there will be no issues with the visual inspection, especially with an OEM part.

 

[Stic-o]

I was planning of gussets on both sides, and an engine cross brace. I am basing my measurements off of Dave's Ranger (DB_1) . If the shock mounts are close to the same length, then I know a 14" 2.0 Fox coilover will fit, since that is what he has.
First, I need to make the air box off a 95-98 fit, and add the vacuum line and sensor for the air temp gauge. I talked to my smog guy today and he says that if it is from a newer model same engine, there will be no issues with the visual inspection, especially with an OEM part.

 

[BKennedy]

Been working on a parts list. Here is what I have so far:

Solid Axle Swap Parts List

Front Axle:
Steering linkage from BC Broncos, (359.99);
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=37_82&products_id=772
Track/Panhard bar from BC Broncos (149.99):
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=75_76&products_id=811
Radius Arms from Duff (749.00):
http://www.dufftuff.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5351
Panhard Mount from Ballistic (31.99):
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/NEW-Adjustable-Panhard-Tracbar-Frame-mount-_p_1669.html
Shock Towers from Artec (99.99):
http://www.artecindustries.com/Shock-Tower_p_346.html
Lower Shock Mounts from Artec (10.95)
http://www.artecindustries.com/Flat-Bottom-Shock-Mounts-2-Boxed_p_41.html
T-Bird Caliper kit from BC Broncos (159.99):
http://www.bcbroncos.com/frontbrakes.html
Diff Cover from Solid (65.00):
http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=33&idcategory=7
Fox 2.0 coil over shocks, 14” travel length (TBD, but less than $400 each):
Extreme Spindle Bushings from Wild Horses (37.99):
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_Spindle_Bushings_Dana30-44


Need to rebuild the wheel bearings / hubs. Replace spindle bearings with spindle bushings.
Clean up the knuckles with new ball joints.
New wheel studs, brake rotors, spindle studs, nuts for brake caliper mounting bracket.
Shorten left side axle, or get new axle for early Bronco. New U-joints in all axles.
Get quote and have axle shortened for Early Bronco width, with new bearings, seals, ARB locker and 5:13 gears.
New brake lines.
Also need to get the entire air intake, minus the MAF, for a 95-98 (square box version) so I can relocate the air box and still have it be OEM. Required relocation of primary battery (have several ideas for that, all need to wait until I finish the SAS).

Rear Axle:
Find a donor axle out of a 95-99 Explorer for a disc brake swap (200.00).
New rear disc brake calipers from Autozone (37.99 each side):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1997-Ford-Explorer-AWD/Brake-Caliper-Rear/_/N-jqaixZ8knrp
New rear brake rotors from Autozone (27.99 each side):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...qaixZ8knrr?itemIdentifier=350669_172993_2708_

Wheel adaptors from Spidertrax (99.99):
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Wheel-Adapters.aspx?t_c=11&t_s=107&t_pt=7576&t_pn=SPIWHS-004
Also need a new set of wheels in 5-5.5. Still thinking about options for wheels. Maybe weld on bead locks, maybe lower cost aluminum wheels.

94 F-150 Master Cylinder from Autozone (45.99)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...0nauZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=88561_429915_0_6891

Before I do start actually doing the swap, I will post a new thread in the appropriate category.

 

[DB_1]

Sounds good so far Brian...on the spindle needle bearings, Wild Horses and Longfield axles both make a bushing that replaces the needle bearings so you'll never have to deal with them again.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_Spindle_Bushings_Dana30-44

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/products.php?product=New-Dana-60-&-44-&-30-Spindle-Bushings

 

[BKennedy]

Sounds good so far Brian...on the spindle needle bearings, Wild Horses and Longfield axles both make a bushing that replaces the needle bearings so you'll never have to deal with them again.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_Spindle_Bushings_Dana30-44

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/products.php?product=New-Dana-60-&-44-&-30-Spindle-Bushings

Thank You, Thank You Very Much....

I changed my parts list already. I prefer the Wild Horses version since they are self-lubricating.

 

[Stic-o]

Sounds good so far Brian...on the spindle needle bearings, Wild Horses and Longfield axles both make a bushing that replaces the needle bearings so you'll never have to deal with them again.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_Spindle_Bushings_Dana30-44

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/products.php?product=New-Dana-60-&-44-&-30-Spindle-Bushings

Those are pretty cool. Have to get some of them.

 

[Rick]

This is going to be cool. Looking forward to seeing the work in progress

 

[BKennedy]

I am starting this SAS in late May or early June. Probably early June. Need to wait until some checks come in before I start spending money.

 

[BKennedy]

I saw this the other day. Is it just for grins or is there a reason I don't understand that someone would put a front locking hub on a rear axle???

I was looking at his rims because I liked the style when I saw them.
Anyone know what brand the rims are?

 

[Rick]

When flat towing it won't spin the driveline. Saves on wear and tear and a bit on gas. It does create a new weak link in the rearend though.

 

[rookieshooter]

FWIW Those rear hubs made by Warn for rear jeep axles work great on a front Ford D35, much stronger. I ran one on my front 35 for a long time after having trouble with the front Warn hubs which are made for a front Dans 35. I even called Warn about this and they really did not want to talk about it. While on phone I told them I had the front Dana 35 and a rear jeep hub made by you guys which had more heavier parts inside then the front 35...Go figure?
Only thing I think why the jeep is stronger that it will take more abuse longer then a front?

 

[BKennedy]

When flat towing it won't spin the driveline. Saves on wear and tear and a bit on gas. It does create a new weak link in the rearend though.

Now I get it, thanks

 

[Kirby N.]

FWIW Those rear hubs made by Warn for rear jeep axles work great on a front Ford D35, much stronger. I ran one on my front 35 for a long time after having trouble with the front Warn hubs which are made for a front Dans 35. I even called Warn about this and they really did not want to talk about it. While on phone I told them I had the front Dana 35 and a rear jeep hub made by you guys which had more heavier parts inside then the front 35...Go figure?
Only thing I think why the jeep is stronger that it will take more abuse longer then a front?

The ones you are talking about are a different kit. This is warns 5 on 5.5 kit with the heavier 1/2 ton hubs.

The other advantage to this kit is that is makes the rear axle a full floater. Now, the weight of the vehicle is supported by the axle housing instead of the axle shaft end. Now the axle shaft is only responsible for turning the tire not bearing the weight of the vehicle. Significant strength gain. Also, if a shaft is broke, it is as easy as pulling the hub, sliding the shaft out and keeping trucking. If both sides broke or if the diff broke, you could pull the driveshaft and unlock both sides and drive it home in front wheel drive without destroying anything.

 

[rookieshooter]

The ones I used on my front Dana 35 were Warn# 37780 for their full float jeep conversion kit.
I weighed it and it was around a pound more heavier. Somewhere in my build section I covered this install. Too long for me to check it out though lol.

Oh what the heck I did just check it out, for anyone interested. This was in 2006 and even the long gone 410Fortune chimned in. Here's the link and it goes to the next page. So I thought I'd post it for anyone interested in this mod.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...9524&highlight=warn+jeep+hubs+8.8#post1479524

 

[BKennedy]

New question(s);
I spoke to a shop that cuts down axles and such. He said all he would do is sleeve the right side axle tube after cutting it down to EB width. He says that the axle will fit in the 1/2" thick tubes with a sleeve. If that is all he is going to do, heck I can do that.

Here is my question(s);
How much clearance from the axle tube do I need for the axle to clear under stress?
Does the axle flex? I would think it would.
With the above questions in mind, how thick/thin of a sleeve could I get away with and have it still be as strong or stronger than the original tube?