SOHC V6 Supercharger

The purpose of this thread is to discuss the design and possible development and installation of a supercharger for my 2000 Sport SOHC V6 engine. I have no first hand experience with forced induction systems and want to learn from forum members that have them on their vehicles. While I don't plan to implement a turbocharger system, there are many problems common to all types of forced induction systems.

The easiest and least expensive solution would be to modify a Ranger SOHC V6 Banshee kit and purchase a used Thunderbird supercoupe positive displacement blower. However, the kit makes no provisions for an aftercooler which I think is beneficial even with only 5 psi of boost.

The Explorer Express supercharger kit includes a quality looking manifold but one is very difficult to obtain.

Once again, there are no provisions for an aftercooler.

I suspect the best solution for me would be a centrifugal supercharger with a water aftercooler. With my oil coolers and remote filters I have very little room in front of the radiator for an intercooler. I am interested in a boost in the range of 5 to 8 psi - enough for a significant performance increase but not so much to adversely impact reliability and require beefing up of engine internals or the transmission/torque converter.

Procharger sells a kit for the 2005 - 2010 Mustang V6.

But the Mustang configuration is opposit to the Explorer - intake on left and battery on right. Also, there is a lot more room between the engine front and the radiator rear on the Mustang than on the Explorer.


Vortech also makes a kit for the Mustang but there are the same problems.

The logical location for a centrifugal supercharger is the same side as the air filter box and intake manifold inlet port. Unfortunately, that is where the alternator is located. I'm investigating the possibility of replacing the belt driven power steering pump with an electric motor driven pump and then relocating the alternator to the old power steering pump location.

 

[2000StreetRod]

dyno problems

The shop owner where I used to get dyno testing sold his machine but he referred me to the shop owner who bought it (One Stop Auto Shop in Taylors). Today I spent an hour or so on the dynamometer but there were ignition sensing problems and dyno speed problems. I wasn't able to get a good plot with accurate readings but after reviewing the files I estimate a max power of about 168.5 rwhp @ 5055 rpm and a max of about 186 rwtq @ 3055 rpm. Todd, the shop manager, is very interested in my supercharger project and was extremely disappointed I did not get several clean runs to establish a baseline. He went right to work on troubleshooting the machine as soon as I left and will call me when it has been repaired. He didn't charge me and I will use him for the post supercharger installation testing. The engine tear down will start as soon as I get a good baseline plot of torque and horsepower. Jame's dyno tune worked great. I was able to slowly accelerate thru the gears using light throttle until the shift into 4th speed (1:1) and then pull at WOT from 1500 rpm to the PCM limited 6250 rpm.

According to my datalog the engine coolant temperature climbed to 214 deg F but the trans temperature only reached 163 deg F. My new top speed on the dyno is 127.5 mph since James removed the PCM speed limit. Air/Fuel ratio at 3000 rpm was about 11.5:1 and slowly increased to 12.3:1 at 6,000 rpm.

 

[2000StreetRod]

naturally aspirated baseline established

This morning I purchased a bottle of fuel stabilizer and added it to the tank just before a fillup of E10 premium. This afternoon I got three good dyno pulls with consistent enough results that I'm satisfied. I'm declaring my naturally aspirated baseline max torque to be 206 rwtq and max power to be 170 rwhp. See the following post for more details than you're probably interested in:
naturally aspirated baseline

Tomorrow I start removing my intake system. Hopefully my supercharger with intercooler will be installed before the fuel stabilizer is no longer effective.

 

[2000StreetRod]

EGR valve to intake tube/bracket - 1st obstacle

I'm in the process of removing all of the intake related components. The last item is the tube that connects the EGR valve to the upper intake manifold.

From past photos when I had my engine out I determined that there is only one small bolt that retains the bracket/tube.

Unfortunately, it is behind the casting that supports the A/C compressor. Hopefully, I can just support the weight of the casting assembly, remove its four mounting bolts and slide the assembly forward enough to access the small retaining bolt with a box wrench. To remove the casting I have to remove the left front wheel and splash shield. Then I have to disconnect the A/C compressor.

Of greater concern is the different configuration of my oil filler port versus the Ranger's. My second generation has the oil filler port in the driver side valve cover while the Ranger is like the third generation Explorer with the oil filler port in the passenger side valve cover. The Banshee M90 kit relocates the EGR valve from my stock position in front to a rear position in the vicinity of the M90 intake plenum. The kit provided EGR pipe extension may not fit. Also, the kit provided driver side mounted fuel block and fuel rail hose may not fit.

 

[Dono]

Ah, and the creative modifications/manufacturing starts!

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel pressure sensor

I was able to remove the intake manifold EGR tube/bracket today and it looks like the Banshee fuel block will fit if I rework the EGR pipe.

I had hoped to modify the fuel block to accept the 3rd generation fuel pressure/temperature sensor as was done by another Banshee kit purchaser.

But it doesn't seem feasible on my 2nd generation. There would be no clearance between the vacuum port and the vavle cover.

 

[2000StreetRod]

stubborn vacuum fitting

Yesterday and today I failed in my attempts to disconnect fuel vapor management valve vacuum T fitting from the main hose.

Yesterday I sprayed the fitting/hose with lubricant then twisted and rocked it side to side while pulling. Then I wedged a small flat blade screw driver between the fitting and hose to stretch the hose and let it set overnight but still couldn't get it out. Today I wedged four screw drivers in the same manner as before making sure that two were past the last ridge. Tomorrow I'll try my luck. I could just cut the hose at the base of the fitting but I want as much length as possible until I determine the final vacuum harness configuration.

I like the 2nd generation stock method of PCV. Crankcase fumes exit thru the breather

which is connected to the PCV valve. Fumes flow thru the valve and enter the left and right banks of the intake manifold to be burned. Fresh (but metered) air is supplied to the block via the port on the passenger side valve cover which is connected to the main intake hose between the MAF sensor and the throttle body. The Rangers, Mustangs and 3rd generation Explorers deleted the breather and plugged the port. The breather will probably interfere with the M90 plenum and have to be deleted and plugged.

Does anyone know the PCV airflow for the Rangers, Mustangs or 3rd generation Explorers? Does the crankcase get fresh air or does it just vent a valve cover port to the intake manifold via a PCV valve?

 

[2000StreetRod]

still no luck

I can't believe that I couldn't remove the T fitting today when it was spread open so much.

It's almost like there is a heat shrink protective sleeve over a hard plastic tube. But if that were the case there shouldn't be barbs at the bottom of the fitting. I will do more research before trying again since my hands are starting to ache.

I got an answer to my previous question about the PVC flow via a posting on another thread: Keep your combustion chamber clean Oil Seperator I plan to install an engine oil separator if I can find space for one. Here's the answer:

I used the RPCASTOR kit and nothing was plugged off or eliminated. The lower intake fits overtop the crankcase breather in the valley.I hose clamped my pcv valve to the hose it usually goes to so it wouldn't fall out. The aftermarket pcv valve came with a plastic piece to attach the two manifold vacuum hoses to but you can just discard that since it is not needed. Then you have one hose coming off top of pcv valve to go to oil separator, other side of separator goes to manifold vacuum. Then on your passenger side valve cover there is a hose that goes to the intake tube before the throttle body, that is fresh air side.
On the newer 4.0's without the breather in the valley, the pcv valve is on the back side of the drivers side valve cover. It goes right into it with a quarter turn and sealed by oring. The other side of the pcv valve has a vacuum hose going to the manifold. The fresh air side is similar to the older 4.0's but uses a plastic hose with orings instead of a rubber one. It still goes from air tube before throttle body to valve cover.
I may be able to get pictures from one of our training vehicles at work on Monday when I go back.

 

[2000StreetRod]

thermostat housing & alternator cable

I have to drain the engine coolant to disconnect the heater hose so I can relocate the ECT sensor and temperature sender wires so they don't interfere with the Banshee fuel rails. I'm still using the stock thermostat housing and screw in type sensors and have been lucky that the housing has not split and the sensor mounts have not leaked. I'm thinking about upgrading to the newer clip in sensors and replacing the housing. A metal housing with two clip in sensor ports will soon be available so I may try one. The thermostat metal top cover is not yet available but with the M90 kit installed in place of the stock upper intake manifold it should be easy to replace the thermostat and its cover at a later date. One of my objectives in installing the M90 kit is too improve component accessibility in the engine compartment.

I have to remove the left front wheel and splash shield to remove and then modify the EGR pipe. So I've decided to remove the A/C compressor and detach its mount. Then I can determine what size alternator charge cable can fit and install a higher rated one from the alternator to the battery junction box. I'll also be able to remove the fuel vapor management valve hose and determine why I can't detach its upper T fitting.

I'm still searching for a higher capacity alternator. The Powermaster 47768 200 amp alternator looks like the same as stock mounting configuration but it's listed on their website for a 99-91 Explorer which doesn't make sense to me.

According to JEGS online catalog it should fit my vehicle.

I'll probably detach the front bumper before removing the wheel. Working by myself I use my foldable crane to remove the bumper and a jack stand gets in the way of the crane floor support leg.

 

[Jakee]

Use some heat to get those fittings loose! Thats how they got there in the first place.

 

[2000StreetRod]

engine wiring harness

I noticed while removing tape from the engine wiring harness that the farther aft I got the more my back and legs ached from leaning over as far as I could. I finally realized that the harness would have to come out to rework the area near the firewall. I was able to reach up thru the driver side wheel well and disconnect that connector with my hand and separate it from its mount to the head.

Then I pulled the driver side cable upward to expose the passenger side connectors that were not attached to the head.

While sitting on the radiator support to be able to reach the connectors I tied a strong cord around the wires below the two connectors to keep it from slipping out of reach. Then I pried the connectors apart and successfully extracted the engine wiring harness.

Now I can lay the harness out on the breakfast nook table and rework it with good lighting and easy access.

 

[kevinspann]

I'm betting that alternator was supposed to be listed for 99-01 not 99-91.

 

[snoranger]

I'm betting that alternator was supposed to be listed for 99-01 not 99-91.

How much do you want to bet?

It's for the OHV... Not the SOHC.

 

[2000StreetRod]

crankcase breather

As 4pointslow pointed out in post #127 of Keep your combustion chamber clean Oil Seperator the top of the crankcase breather is below the top of the head intake ports.

I will be able to retain it and the stock PCV flow path:
main intake tube port prior to throttle plate > passenger side valve cover port > thru crankcase > breather > PCV valve > intake manifold port after throttle plate

If I can find room I'll install an oil separator between the PCV valve and the intake manifold port

 

[2000StreetRod]

Confirming feasibility

The removal of the wiring harness provided an opportunity to confirm the feasibility of my planned intake system. I positioned the major components in place not using gasket sealer and only finger tightening the bolts.

It appears that I should be able to adjust coupler and hose lengths to make the main intake tube fit. So far I've determined that the throttle cable is too short and I'll probably need a different radiator upper hose. The space near the PCM main connector looks tight but I'll know more when I plug in the harness. I'll also need a custom plenum to hose adapter because the inlet bore is off center from the tapped mounting holes.

 

[2000StreetRod]

lots of wires

After cutting several splices in the wiring harness I was able to separate component wires to the needed side. So I plugged the mess in for a test fit.

I am pleased that with the PCM connector support bracket removed there are no clearance issues and I won't have to recess the PCM mount. Also note in the above photo the offset of the plenum bore vs the threaded mount holes. The holes on the driver side are farther away to get clearance from the plenum bend. That's why I'll probably need a custom adapter.

The stock wires for both engine coolant temp sensors are too short when run on the driver side and will have to be lengthened. When I do that I may relocate their wiring to the passenger side like I'm doing with the TPS and voltage regulator wiring.

I can't finalize the wiring harness modifications until I get the fuel rails installed and see how much room is left near them. I wish that Powermaster would send me a photo of the rear of their 200 amp alternator so I can determine if it will fit. I want to get the charge wire installed so I can reinstall the accessory mount and then install the fuel block.

I checked hood clearance with the stock pulley installed. There was about a 1.5 gap at the very front directly above the Ford emblem with the hood resting on the pulley. I probably need to gain that much room to have about 1/4 inch clearance at the pulley. I removed the hood insulation and only gained about 1/8 inch. Next I'll install the 2.7 inch pulley and measure.

 

[2000StreetRod]

significant obstacle

I've encountered a rather significant problem. I removed the stock blower pulley and then closed the hood. The gap at the very front directly above the Ford emblem was 5/16 inch. The gap with the stock pulley (3 1/2 in dia)was a little less than 1 9/16 inch. The gap with the 2.7 inch pulley (3 1/8 in dia) only decreased to 1 7/16 inch. So I need another (1 7/16-5/16) 1 1/8 inch. Unfortunately the hood reinforcement is removed completely only gains 9/16 inch. I suspect the body mounts have compressed with age lowering the hood. The options I can think of are: raise the body with new and thicker mounts; lower the engine by modifying the motor mounts; or replace or modify the hood. I seem to remember that there is a Ranger hood that fits the Explorer but has more clearance.

 

[Dono]

oh boy. That's not good.
I'm guessing a hood bulge is out of the question. I understand that completely.

 

[2000StreetRod]

body mount kit?

I'll inspect my body mounts for damage and excessive wear. If they're shot I could gain 3/8 to 1/2 inch by replacing them with polyurethane bushings and my handling may also improve. According to posts on the forum Daystar KF04009BK should fit even though it's not listed as such. I think I can still find one of the kits online. Since I'll be pulling a lot of the front off to install the intercooler pump and plumb the core maybe it won't be too much more work to install the kit. I don't have a lot of rust on my vehicle.

If I could find another hood with more clearance or a decent looking hood bulge to install I'd buy it.

My clear coat is starting to peel so I plan to eventually have my Sport repainted.

 

[2000StreetRod]

body bushings

All of the body bushings (6) I checked on both sides look to be in good condition and not worth replacing.

I looked at the motor mounts to see if I could drill lower holes in the side plates and that doesn't look feasible. I really don't want to lower the engine anyway. So I guess a hood scoop is the only solution. The one Explorer Express sells is made by Xtreme Autosport and measure 25 Wide Rear X 20Wide Front X 25 Long. Their website doesn't give the height. The measurement for the blower pulley is 20 1/5 to 22 inches from the rear of the hood so Xtreme Autosport scoop would work if it is high enough. I'll find out more details and for now will not mess with changing the height of the engine or body.

 

[2000StreetRod]

hood scoop

I've been corresponding with an Xtreme Autosport representative who has been extremely responsive and helpful. He identified the hood scoop in the photo in my earlier post as their HS003.

It is 3 inches shorter than the HS009.

I think I need the additional length since I lose 4 inches due to the recess at the front. The height should be adequate.