Great deal.
I have been working on the cross bar support for the front of the trans pan skid plate today. Mostly getting the plates bolted to the frame where I want them, and a little with the bar. Using 1.25" DOM, 1/4" thick. Should be able to hold a skid plate up and give support to the frame at the bump stops without being too bulky as space is limited. Plating is 1/4" flat. Its a pain to get it lined up, ended up mocking things up with some old irrigation pipe I had lying around.
Things never go as originally planned. Threw the original plan out the window when I realized how far the cross bar would have to stick out to act as a skid plate mount. Am now going to build the cross bar as tight to the bottom of the engine / trans as possible, then add skid plate mounts to clear the Y pipe/catalytic converter. Should work okay as long as I double thick the plate at the mounts (3/16 + 3/16 = beefy), and bend the front of the plate down to give the rocks a smooth starting point. Also planning on using some 1" angle to "X" the entire plate on the inside as its fairly long.
I have never hit anything that far forward yet and the Duff radius arms are so long they help protect the underside, but the SAS is making me brave so I should prepare accordingly.
Might even make another plate from the Trans pan plate to the engine cross bar to cover the engine pan. That would be fairly easy, just build up the cross member with some 1x2" square tubing for a plate to weld in some weld nuts. It would tie all of the skid plates together nicely and make them all stronger as well. Another time, when I score more scrap 3/16" plate from the metal supply store.
Removal of the skid plates will not be very difficult either. The existing plate that covers the t-case is bolted with round allen head bolts into weld nuts, two on each side of the frame just behind the RA mounts and four across the trans cross support. It ties into the gas tank skid plate and uses the existing bolts for the front tank mounts. Took me all of five minutes to pull it when I went to the muffler shop. All those mounting points make it stronger, and help act as frame support. The piece that ties in the gas tank plate also overlaps the bottom of the frame to help support that piece.
Pic (already posted, but hey)
New trans plate will overlap the one on the pic at its front mounts, using three of the existing bolts for the rear mount. Then run up between the exhaust on passenger side and front drive shaft on driver to the new cross bar I am working on now. If I build a engine plate, it will use the front mounts from the trans plate and overlap that. To remove, I would just have to pull the bolts for the plate I need to remove, and there should be enough wiggle room to slide it out from under the one in front of it.