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Little late but, if you heat that up in the oven, then that 12 ton press might remove it.

not a bad idea. im just wondering one thing with that. the gears are metal, and i believe the rotors are alum. i would think the alum might expand faster then the metal gears?
either way i will have all winter to play around with them in the gas chamber. that and i buddy of mine has a 20 ton that i would think will work. then again i have been wrong before.
 






well.......


filled the snout last night when i came home from work, went out after my last post to see if the level dropped, didnt look like it did. started it up, took it for a drive. the first few mins when even i even haft way got on the gas, it smoked out everything and anything behind me. thinking ok, its rich at idle because after all, i did knida rush don with the tuning and there are some spots we need to figure out still. i figured i would take it out on the highway to "clear its throat". seemed to work, no smoke. blower not making any weird sounds either.
came home, popped the hood, all seemed like it should. shut it off and pulled the plug......nothing comes out. i bought a few extra bottles of oil just in case as well. i dumped one in, and that was enough to tell me, this pack has the same problem as the other one.
going to try and see if i can find a place in canada that rebuilds them first before looking down in the u.s.
lessen learned. never buy a supercharger that has been sitting on the shelf for 10+ years with no mileage on it
 






man you can't catch a break...
 


















Send both packs in
Seems like you're going to need a spare
Man this sucks
 






Send both packs in
Seems like you're going to need a spare
Man this sucks


im trying to find a place in Canada that does them. So far it seems like nobody up here does them...
 






looks like im hooped. i have called a number of places up here, and nobody knows of anyone that rebuilds rotor packs up here. what i am more then likely going to have to do is gut the case of the rotor pack, block the front of the case off and have the motor run n/a for the winter depending on how bad the tune will be out. i do normally take it for a spin just to get everything moving or move it to clear snow out of the back yard.
 






got around to taking the rotors out today

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oil on the back side of the case, not dout this rotor pack has the same as the old one. that and even though this is a pretty close up pick, im a little concerned now with what the case looks like with the scratches. but once again, its a close up.

so to move this thing around when winter hits (and we did get a tiny amount of snow the other day, but its gone now) i made a block off plate for the front of the case and will have to run it n/a. that also means no stomping on it, or more they likely i will drown it in fuel

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stock belt also went on, minus one pulley. barely fit, but it did fit. kinda close to the upper rad hose, but it does clear it! i also started it to make sure it will run, and there were no problems.
now a new decision i have on my hands. i have found another supercharger down in the u.s. this time it is used with around 28K miles on it for around the same price as it might cost to get one rotor pack rebuilt. im on the fence here.
 






I would have the rotor pack rebuilt, and buy the other supercharger in hopes that it could be installed right away.
Do both, but save enough money for Ramen noodles. LOL. We need to hit the lottery so we have more time and money to spend on our Explorers.
 






i would do both, but i would have to sell my body.......and i think the KBB is like $10.60?
and like i have said in the past. should have been a drug addict, its cheaper.
 






But you would have less to show for your money.. Come on now!
 






im more then likely now going send both packs to stiegemeier. hopefully they can repair one, and i will see if they would like to buy the other as a core.
ive also been thinking that now that this thing got way faster overnight, need to start thinking safety stuff because sooner or later they will pick it apart when i go to the strip. one thing i wanted to put in for a long time was a driveshaft loop. lucky for me, i found one today at a shop that was liquidating for $5 NIB

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i think i may have found the smoking gun.
this oil problem has been driving me nuts over the last few weeks. yesterday i had dropped some stuff off to dono (for those that may not know, hes only 15-20 mins from me) and we both had agreed that its something other then bad seals. its also good to have him this close because we can bounce things off each other. that and the explorer he had before this one was a supercharged one, as well as he has a mustang with a supercharger, and knows explorers. i had also told him i had the newest rotor pack soaking in oil for the last 2 weeks and couldnt find any evidence of a leak.

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so tonight i went out to the gas chamber (shed, its cooled off now so i have to use my heater in there) and thought long and hard. i grabbed the damaged pack and soaked it, but using brake clean.

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not long after i could see some stains on the backside of the plate. also now knowing the seals that are used are nothing like rubber and not easily damaged, i started looking.
now remember, this is now a hybrid using a m112 snout and a m122 case and rotors. the bolt patter is for the most part the same for both.......except for the bottom. there are 2 bolts at the very bottom and only one dead center for the m122. i will have to think there might not be a lot of people that are running this type of set up but who knows. i grabbed the snout and put it on the rotor pack to see if i could find something.

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this is the back side of the rotor pack that faces the supercharger case. the little red circle is where the bolt would go if i were using a m122 snout, you can see the holes from the m112 snout on either side. i cheated and never drilled a hole for that bolt. also when i seal these, i use a thin layer of silicone. that little space there is small enough i was barely able to focus in to get a pic.

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now where that bolt would go.
im pretty sure that is a blind bolt hole, but i am not going to dismiss it because the snout and case are the 2 things that never changed on this problem, as well as when don and i were talking we both agreed as well its pretty unlikely i got to packs both with bad seals, even when the newest one i bought still had oil in it. luck has it it will be warmer this week, so i am going to see if there are frost plugs that small and if someone has one, i will plug that hole up, and try this all over again. worst will happen is it doesnt work, right?
 






don and i were talking we both agreed as well its pretty unlikely i got to packs both with bad seals, even when the newest one i bought still had oil in it.
I agree 2packs in a row not likely

I'd cut off a scrap bolt then cut a slot like a flathead screwdriver use some liquid sealant

Make your grub screw
Or buy one lol
 






If I'm looking at this right, without that bolt in the bottom, you could be distorting the snout/ rotor pack as well when you torque the other bolts down, right? Is there room to drill a hole in the M112 snout to allow you to put that bolt in like the M122 was designed? If not, what about machining it?
 






Love it Tim! great find. I'm really hoping you can prove this to yourself easily. This makes perfect sense.
 






If I'm looking at this right, without that bolt in the bottom, you could be distorting the snout/ rotor pack as well when you torque the other bolts down, right? Is there room to drill a hole in the M112 snout to allow you to put that bolt in like the M122 was designed? If not, what about machining it?


i cant say yes or no to distorting it. if that bolt was on the top, i would probably be more concerned about it because the snout is being forced down when the belt is on. i had also gave both snouts to a friend of mine that is a machinist as well when i was putting everything together (he drilled at tapped the case for me as well as milled the bottom of the m112 for me). his problem was that on the back side there are ribs that he would have to drill through. then the next problem would be sealing the bolt hole on the front side to keep it from leaking. however, if this doesnt work, what i might do is see if it is possible to cut the bottom of the m122 snout off, and weld it to the bottom of the m112 snout. that may or may not happen, and if it does happen, that would be more towards spring time.

i found a plug for it this morning, but i will have to drill the hole a little bigger to fit it. the good news about that will be that i can drill it about a 1/8 of the way in and not from one end to the other.
 



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