Won't start after changed brake light switch | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Again, power is getting to the PCM sometimes so this isn’t going to be a fuse, or something similar.
 



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The cruise control cutoff switch that was recalled is on the front top of master cylinder. Ford "fixed" the problem by adding a fusible link to the connection. You can see it by a large blue tag on the link. You can buy a new switch for about $24 -- it takes one minute to remove the old and install the new, and then you can get rid of the fusible link.
 






Again, power is getting to the PCM sometimes so this isn’t going to be a fuse, or something similar.
Going to take the battery to a different place to be checked. Sure is acting like it might be shorting itself out.
 






The cruise control cutoff switch that was recalled is on the front top of master cylinder. Ford "fixed" the problem by adding a fusible link to the connection. You can see it by a large blue tag on the link. You can buy a new switch for about $24 -- it takes one minute to remove the old and install the new, and then you can get rid of the fusible link.
Thank you. I'll look for this.
 






If it's not a power issue, or other problem, and it is a bad PCM, what's the next best step? I've heard a PCM, transceiver and keys can be bought and it comes preprogrammed to the cars VIN. How successful are these "plug-n-play" versions versus having to go to a dealer? What would be the best way to handle the repair?

Thank you.
 






The transceiver doesn’t have to match anything. Get any parts number matching PCM and have a locksmith add your keys. If you bought matching keys you’d need to swap to that ignition cylinder, and your keys wouldn’t match the door locks. I’d keep the dealer out of it.
 






Okay...so get a PCM with matching part number and install it. Have locksmith come back to add my key (only have one though).

What about the programming of the PCM? When bought, are they normally preprogrammed to the VIN before they are installed or need to be programmed upon the install? What's the process of programming it to the car's specs?

I saw my PCM is located on and slid into the firewall on passenger side and has three clips of wire harness connected to it. Looks to have some type of sealant around it but guess it slides out after bolt taken off. I'll look at it closer today and take a photo.

Suggestions of reputable places to buy PCMs? I ran across a video of someone buying a salvaged one. But buying a salvaged one, might be ok if they tested it..not sure otherwise will have to do some looking for a PCM.

Thanks again.
 






Do you know if just a standard code reader gives PCM codes? Curious to see what codes I might get if I get a reader to make sure there are no other problems I'm not aware of. Wondering if PCM just went bad or what could have caused it to go bad so if anything, it doesn't make the replaced one go bad.
 






Discovered fuse #29 (Digital Transmission Range Sensor) underdash drivers side no power. Used a test light and both sides of fuse showed no power. Tested with key off and with key on. But to the eye the fuse looks okay...not seeing a separation of the metal inside of the fuse.

If I understand correctly, when key is turned to start it sends a signal to this fuse which sends a signal to the neutral safety switch which sends a signal to the relay whereby if grounded by PATS it sends a signal to the starter motor.. is this correct? (Locksmith said the PATS has to know it's in Park. ..just sharing what I was told.)

Don't have a replacement fuse here at the moment. It's a mini-fuse.

Also, going to take battery in and see if can do a load test and check for another battery. Today it's not holding a charge.
 






If it’s not holding a standing charge it’s junk.
 






What powers fuse 29 in central junction box? This fuse is for the digital transmission range sensor. No power at this fuse with key on or key off. Or, is there only power to it when the car actually starts up?
 






Looking at the PCM on firewall..it see one bolt near the top of it. Is it supposed to slide straight out? Seems to have some type of sealant around the outside edge so wondering if it should slide out easily.

Who are the reputable companies to order a PCM from?

Thank you
 






Put in a new battery. Got that done today. On to seeing what to do next in this fiasco from just having a battery drain and fixing a brake light switch on the pedal.
 






Who here has changed a PCM on a 2004 Ford explorer XLT 6 cylinder?

Need info on taking out the PCM.
Send it off for repair or buy another?

Think I'm about ready to send it to the mechanic.. ugh
 






It's a miracle...all fixed!

PCM was fine. Mechanic called and said car all fixed. He ordered another key and reprogrammed it. Not sure why the locksmith that came was not able to fix it. He had told me he was not able to communicate with the PCM...but regardless it's all fixed.

Thank you to the forum for all of the input along the way.
 






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