Retired English teacher in over her head (1999 ford explorer limited) fuel pump

[lbaldana]

Toypaseo is right. It’s not that hard of a job. You’ve done the clips once.

But…… It really sounds like this is a beater that’s used as better-than-walking transportation. If it’s running as good as it ever does, I’d probably just let it be.

If I wanted to put in extra effort I’d probably take a stab at the electrical gremlin. The bunch of things probably have a common problem, such as a GEM(or whatever is like a GEM in a 99).

Toypaseo and Mbrooks420-- Thanks for the encouragement, but I think I'll pause to recover-- and take the time to enjoy not walking and busing. When I feel I'm ready for more, I'll start a new thread.

Hey, she's a whole lot more than better-than-walking transportation! I'll post some pictures someday so you can see what a workhorse she is.

BTW, no problems with inside light staying on so far. But the hatch wiper won't stop wiping-- only when the truck's running, thank God. Still, it's an irking sound. Also, lots of little squeaks, like 2 hamsters on a tiny cathouse mattress, coming from the rear... Maybe they're related (the 2 problems, not the 2 hamsters-- that would be WRONG.)

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d pull the arm off the wiper instead of letting it wipe. It’ll eventually scratch the window up terribly.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Congratulations on your successful project!

 

[lbaldana]

I’d pull the arm off the wiper instead of letting it wipe. It’ll eventually scratch the window up terribly.

Wiper-- where do I pull? Photo 1, 2, 3, or 4? Thanks.

 

[lbaldana]

OK, I'm feeling a little OCD--- Here's my panel. My question is this: where does the sealant go?

1. Directly under the screws?
2. Closer to the edge than the screws?
3. Further from the edge than the screws?

Hate to pepper you with so many questions, but I want to get this right.

 

[lbaldana]

Congratulations on your successful project!

Thank you, though I'm not 100% done. And thank you (everyone) for all the wonderful help!

 

[Mr. Alligator]

All you need to do is keep outside things—- critters/exhaust/fuel fumes out of your truck. I would not use caulk, as that will be a mess if you ever need to open your access panel again. Instead, get some good duct tape and cover/overlap the edges.

Good luck.

 

[toypaseo]

I just went to the lumber yard and bought the cheapest caulk they had, $2.99. I used a dead blower hammer to shape the the aluminum panel to the contours of the body. Pre-drilled holes in the panel, marked them on the floor, and pre-drilled those. Then I put a 1/2” line around the edge of the opening, pushed down the panel, and used sheet metal screws to tighten it down.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You could also use a quality double sided tape. (Like a 3m foam based) I’d still screw it though.

 

[lbaldana]

JL guy might have thought you meant the fuel pump filter.

Nah. That's the first thing I thought, and I made it clear that I had a new strainer in there.

 

[lbaldana]

You could also use a quality double sided tape. (Like a 3m foam based) I’d still screw it though.

Mmm, good idea. How about I glue on (with my tube of sealant) some door insulation I've got lying around somewhere and then screw it in. Shouldn't make a mess because the panel will not be in contact with the sealant...

 

[Mbrooks420]

Mmm, good idea. How about I glue on (with my tube of sealant) some door insulation I've got lying around somewhere and then screw it in. Shouldn't make a mess because the panel will not be in contact with the sealant...

That’d do it.

 

[410Fortune]

I use silicon and screws. Put a 1/4" bead of silicon on the panel and let it setup for like 45 minutes, so it skins over.... then install panel.
If you ever need access you simply pry it apart, and it will leave a nice gasket you can use again.
Congratulations! you just made a gasket.
Duct tape is messy when it gets old and you try to pull it up

I would pull the power for the rear wiper motor, remove the rear hatch panel (plastic part held on with 2-4 phillips screws then you push it upwards to unlock). Right there is the wiper motor, unplug the electrical connector


Great work thus far!

 

[Mbrooks420]

I use silicon and screws. Put a 1/4" bead of silicon on the panel and let it setup for like 45 minutes, so it skins over.... then install panel.
If you ever need access you simply pry it apart, and it will leave a nice gasket you can use again.
Congratulations! you just made a gasket.
Duct tape is messy when it gets old and you try to pull it up

I would pull the power for the rear wiper motor, remove the rear hatch panel (plastic part held on with 2-4 phillips screws then you push it upwards to unlock). Right there is the wiper motor, unplug the electrical connector


Great work thus far!

Yeah definitely best to unhook it. I’m actually using a rear wiper motor for a test mule at work, and even unloaded it gets pretty hot after 20-30 minutes. Oddly enough it runs about the same temp at 12 and 24 volts.

 

[C420sailor]

Until (if) you fix the fuel level sender, you can always use the old school method.

Go out and buy/borrow a 2.5-5 gallon fuel jug.

Go to the gas station and fill your tank and your jug. Don’t “top off” like some people do. Bad for your evap, and doesn’t provide repeatable results. When it clicks, done.

Reset your trip counter and drive normally.

Now, you have two options here.

1) Drive until you run out of fuel. Note the mileage. Pour your spare jug in, prime your pump (turn key off, then on—not start—wait a few seconds, turn off, repeat 3-4 times), start, drive to nearest gas station and fill. Do this a few times over varied driving conditions, noting your average mileage on each tank. Don’t do anything unusual, like throw in a road trip or go off-roading—unless that’s normal driving for you. Subtract 25% from that no-kidding empty mileage (or whatever safety margin you wish) and make that your MUST FIND GAS mileage. Remember to reset your trip counter at every fill…

2) Don’t really need the extra jug, just for security. Reset your trip, fill with gas. Drive normally until you hit 200mi. Fill your tank and note the gallonage required. Keep incrementing your mileage up slowly until you find you’re filling with about 18ish gallons. Subtract 20ish percent and that’s your new must find gas now number.

I drive like an old man (speed limit, gentle acceleration, mix of around town and highway) and I am usually searching for gas around 240-250. My engine is well maintained, though. Leaves me with about a 40-50 mile buffer or so.

 

[lbaldana]

Until (if) you fix the fuel level sender, you can always use the old school method.

Go out and buy/borrow a 2.5-5 gallon fuel jug.

Go to the gas station and fill your tank and your jug. Don’t “top off” like some people do. Bad for your evap, and doesn’t provide repeatable results. When it clicks, done.

Reset your trip counter and drive normally.

Now, you have two options here.

1) Drive until you run out of fuel. Note the mileage. Pour your spare jug in, prime your pump (turn key off, then on—not start—wait a few seconds, turn off, repeat 3-4 times), start, drive to nearest gas station and fill. Do this a few times over varied driving conditions, noting your average mileage on each tank. Don’t do anything unusual, like throw in a road trip or go off-roading—unless that’s normal driving for you. Subtract 25% from that no-kidding empty mileage (or whatever safety margin you wish) and make that your MUST FIND GAS mileage. Remember to reset your trip counter at every fill…

2) Don’t really need the extra jug, just for security. Reset your trip, fill with gas. Drive normally until you hit 200mi. Fill your tank and note the gallonage required. Keep incrementing your mileage up slowly until you find you’re filling with about 18ish gallons. Subtract 20ish percent and that’s your new must find gas now number.

I drive like an old man (speed limit, gentle acceleration, mix of around town and highway) and I am usually searching for gas around 240-250. My engine is well maintained, though. Leaves me with about a 40-50 mile buffer or so.

Very good idea. I'll do that if Techron doesn't do the trick.

 

[Turdle]

Fingers crossed the additive works.

Fuel gauge will read lower as the resistance in the sender rises. A pegged full gauge says either

the float arm didn't fall down into place.
float arm got bent downward wile removing--installing
crossed sender wiring
short circuited sender wire

If the additive doesn't work, guess what? You get to use your new toy! Yay!

 

[lbaldana]

Wish it was prettier... but it is what it is:

 

[C420sailor]

Looks great

 

[lbaldana]

Looks great

You're too sweet!