Help with my 1997 Ford Explorer V8

[thevazha]

Hi All!

I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Explorer for my mom. It’s a V8 with 137K miles on it. For the most part, everything on it seems to be working fine. A few blemishes here and there but it’ll pass the smell test.

The battery was old and beat up so I got a new one and now it fires right up. The issue I’m having is that when I park it, and turn it off, there’s a loud noise that comes out the rear like a pump or something. It lasts about 10 seconds and then goes off. And it does it every 45 seconds or so.

My thought is that it’s probably the adjustable air ride or something? The rear end sags way low, and it does not go back up. I’m sure the air shocks are shot to **** and it’s the pump trying to level the car that I’m hearing.

1. Was my guess right?
2. Can I pull a fuse to turn off the compressor so it doesn’t drain the battery?
3. Is it easier to just instal normal shocks or easier to install the air shocks? Can I even install normal shocks and bypass the whole compressor air system? What’s the cheaper route?

I just think if I install new air shocks, and that’s not my problem, then I’ve wasted money on them and then also have to diagnose the rest of the system.

Your help is much appreciated!

 

[DintDobbs]

@thevazha That sounds like the air bags ("load leveling suspension"), all right. Check your owner's manual (if you have it) for the fuse diagrams. If you don't have it, I can find it for ya and post it here.

This route has been gone down many times, just find some shocks from a non-air-ride Ex, or better, upgrade to Rancho (or Bilstein if you've got the dough). You MIGHT need the leaf springs from a non-air-ride Ex as well, not sure if the springs themselves are different. Try searching for "remove air suspension" in the corner, there's got to be a how-to on that by now.

 

[410Fortune]

open the rear jack compartment, there is a switch to turn the air ride off
The switch is there so that mechanics can safely put the truck on a lift without the air ride trying to adjust itself
Turn the air ride off to save your battery
As mentioned for 99% of people it is not worth trying to get the air ride working again ($$$$) it can all be ripped out and replaced with regular shocks

 

[CDW6212R]

Those Explorer with the ARC system have softer springs in them, so they are designed for the shock to help with the load. Normal shocks will likely result in a little more bottoming out than other Explorers on the same bumps, thus the softer leaf springs.

I would try to save the ARC system if it might be intact, most have been removed or ruined by now. The compressor is reliable, but not made to run constantly. The weak links are the shocks that might be fine for 100k miles(is that a weak link), and the air connections. Spray the air connections with soapy water like hunting a tire air leak. They may leak barely, but shouldn't be much. They all have a tiny plastic collar inside which is basically a seal, which are replaceable if you go through sources that sell the air suspension parts(air solenoids, driers, compressor, lines, and o-ring kits).

I installed a 98 ARC system from scratch into my 99 when I reconstructed it, not using the front shocks or lines. I installed a 99-01 ARC module(rear shocks only), and it worked great for 7+ years until the trans went out.

The ARC shocks can still be bought for about $80+ each I think, I paid about $50 each once long ago, and lately I saw them for $80 or so on eBay.

Be sure that the ride height sensor is still there also, and properly attached, lubricated. That has to work right or the pump will run erratically.

 

[nameskreen]

I replaced the air shocks with regular shocks on my 98 Limited with no issues. There is a wire that I disconnected from the info center (don't remember which one but I'm sure it's easy to find out) to stop the air ride msg from popping up on the display. I've had Lincoln's and an Explorer with air ride and in my opinion I would rather do without it

 

[410Fortune]

You can also get rear shocks w helper springs to help carry some load from the now missing air shocks (if you go that route)

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Hi All!

I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Explorer for my mom. It’s a V8 with 137K miles on it. For the most part, everything on it seems to be working fine. A few blemishes here and there but it’ll pass the smell test.

The battery was old and beat up so I got a new one and now it fires right up. The issue I’m having is that when I park it, and turn it off, there’s a loud noise that comes out the rear like a pump or something. It lasts about 10 seconds and then goes off. And it does it every 45 seconds or so.

My thought is that it’s probably the adjustable air ride or something? The rear end sags way low, and it does not go back up. I’m sure the air shocks are shot to shi* and it’s the pump trying to level the car that I’m hearing.

1. Was my guess right?
2. Can I pull a fuse to turn off the compressor so it doesn’t drain the battery?
3. Is it easier to just instal normal shocks or easier to install the air shocks? Can I even install normal shocks and bypass the whole compressor air system? What’s the cheaper route?

I just think if I install new air shocks, and that’s not my problem, then I’ve wasted money on them and then also have to diagnose the rest of the system.

Your help is much appreciated!

welcome! could be the air ride. its a good system, the only thing being the hoses are aging. being in LA (especially if youre in the AV) you know what happens when rubber sits out LOL, but theyre out of the sun so not as bad. the good thing about air ride is it adjusts pressure to yhr load.

that said, if hoses check out good, i haven't looked much into air ride but i do know duralo makes some. if you choose to go the conventional route, monroe loa adjusts are good, but can be quite stiff when unloaded. monroe also makes air shocks for these, those are good options for leveling the rear out too, and you can adjust em as needed.

you can remove ARC, thats an option too and to add either air shocks or the adjusts both are good routes, ARC is a good system though imo if you put a bunch of stuff in your X (ie. when going to costco sicne its always crowded! or tractor supply LOL)

 

[Fix4Dirt]

You can also get rear shocks w helper springs to help carry some load from the now missing air shocks (if you go that route)

^^^^^^^^ jamie beat me to it it seems lol

 

[J_C]

3. Is it easier to just instal normal shocks or easier to install the air shocks? Can I even install normal shocks and bypass the whole compressor air system? What’s the cheaper route?

The monroe load-adjust shocks are the cheapest route towards a semi-acceptable result.

Rock Auto currently has ONE pair on clearance for $63 (regularly $98 or $113 delivered on amazon) plus S/H charge... around $80 total, though a web search should find a Rock Auto 5% off coupon.

These are as easy to install as regular shocks, except when it comes time to put the bottom on, you need a floor jack or similar to push up on the bottom of the shock to compress it, and a wedge on the jack saddle under the end of the shock (a wedge like a flat pry bar or piece of wood) to lever the bottom eyelet over to the mounting hole on the spring seat plate.

More Information for MONROE 58617

I wouldn't be all that confident that your old compressor has a lot of life left in it if it's been left in this state where it has been coming on every 45 seconds. Would've thought the prior owner would have disabled it already but I guess not. Be sure to disable it before you wreck your new battery from excessive drain.

The load adjust shocks will lift your rear end, but whether the rear end is where it needs to be height-wise is anybody's guess. When I put them on my '98 with regular (non-air-ride) rear suspension, it was sagging about an inch right side, inch and a half left side, and put it at about 1/2" higher than stock with the new load adjust shocks, and since then, has settled down pretty near stock height.