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FAKRWEE Navajo Roll Cage

Tom, I second Jamie's suggestion for the Jeeper velcro grab handles. That metal one looks like it could possibly bust your cranium pretty good, ouch!
 



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I didn't read the whole thread... but
1. looks good!

and

2. Is it tied into the frame, or just welded to the body?
 






Originally posted by Rick
Very nice:D They finished it very quickly too!

I know, when they called and told me it was ready I kept asking, "are you sure????:eek: " It kinda worried me;)

Tom, I second Jamie's suggestion for the Jeeper velcro grab handles. That metal one looks like it could possibly bust your cranium pretty good, ouch!

I know that's my primary concern, even though I have been called thick headed at times:D

2. Is it tied into the frame, or just welded to the body?

Welded on to the body.
 






That is sweet Tom. Those guys can do some nice fabbing. I wish I had the tools! I still am thinking about an exterior cage like that guys from argentina!! Yours is so sano though.
 






My fab shop friend built a sweet cage in a Half Cab Scout that was interior then went extetior in the bed and he welded to the body w/ some massive plates and basically rebuilt the floor boards and ran the tubing right into them. Is that the way to go? Will the truck get trashed in a roll? Also- do the doors come off now? I know it is scary w/o a cage, but nothing to stop you now- right??
 






The workmanship is top notch and the speed of the job getting done quick as hell. Not it time for all the little things. All the storage boxes and probably a few more add-ons :D

Have fun with your new and improve toy.

Chris
 






Originally posted by Kirby N.
My fab shop friend built a sweet cage in a Half Cab Scout that was interior then went extetior in the bed and he welded to the body w/ some massive plates and basically rebuilt the floor boards and ran the tubing right into them. Is that the way to go? Will the truck get trashed in a roll? Also- do the doors come off now? I know it is scary w/o a cage, but nothing to stop you now- right??

Most of the off-roaders I've talked to that have roll cages have them welded on to the floor boards. That's more than enough for rockcrawling. Usually if you roll, it's more of a flop over than a roll over. The cage just protects you from a crushed cab. Attaching the roll cage to the frame is, and excuse the frase, "overkill". Unless you do some high speed driving you don't really need the extra strength. The other problem is going to the frame doesn't permit you to tuck in the cage out of the way and you have to install bushings to take up the frame flex. Also the seats have to be bolted to the cage in case the body does come loose it doesn't beat you to death.

I'm looking into some half doors. Haven't decided yet which ones. I like CoryL's. They look tough.

All the storage boxes and probably a few more add-ons

Jefe is coming over on June 21st and building them for me. His box is killer.
 






Originally posted by FAKRWEE
FOURXDOCTOR
1033 N. Victory Place
Burbank, Ca. 91502
Mike Duncan is the owner and Dennis the shop Mgr.Final price is $1,600.00. Seems expensive but not really when you figure all the hours they put into it.


No offense intended to the shop as their work is pristine, but there are some things missing from that cage that should have come along for that price IMHO.

I know you have the sunroof and don't know what you wanted for the cage, but there should be at least one, if not two, spreader(s) in the center of the cab section of the cage going from the A-pillar hoop to the B-pillar hoop.

Also, why is there only one diagonal cross-brace on the B-Pillar hoop? If you flop it on the drive's side the cage will be less likely to deflect in, but what happens if you flop on the passenger side?

Just making sure you know what you are getting and pointing out some things that I would have added for strength/safety's sake.

Other than that it looks excellent! :D
 






Originally posted by FAKRWEE
The other problem is going to the frame doesn't permit you to tuck in the cage out of the way and you have to install bushings to take up the frame flex. Also the seats have to be bolted to the cage in case the body does come loose it doesn't beat you to death.

Going to the frame doesn't mean you can't tuck the cage away to maximize internal space. It just means you have to get more creative under the vehicle to tie the above to the frame.

You also don't need to install bushings. By welding the cage to the frame, it adds to the rigidity of the entire vehicle. Some people like this, some don't. For a daily driver, it wouldn't be as desirable, but for a trailer queen it might be.

I will agree on the seats though. I always suggest tying the seats into the cage no matter what.
 






That looks great! something I am going to have to do one of these days. My question is how do they get those welds all the way around the tube without burning the headliner? I guess some sort of protector and years of practice.

What is going to happen without tying to the frame? Is the protection still there or not? I always thought a roll cage HAD to be tied to the frame, but I don't know so I am asking.
 






4wheelparts has a some of those flexible velco handles on sale for 12.99 from 25. Just saw it in May's issue. Looking good
Gary
 






Well I almost got everything back together again. Here are some pics.

I've rust proofed everything under the mat and added some rubber lining to cut dowm noise.

117-1782_img.jpg
 






Even under the atlas twin shifts.

117-1780_img.jpg
 






Carpets cut to fit.

117-1784_img.jpg
 






In place:

117-1786_img.jpg
 






Seats in:

117-1788_img.jpg
 






:

117-1789_img.jpg
 






Still working on the rear cargo area.

117-1790_img.jpg
 









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i agree. if you flopped on the pass side and had a pass in there they could be hurt. i'd look into getting another cross bar to make an X and not a \.

agre with Cory
 






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