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What is the difference between the visors for Explorers with the moonroof vs. those without? All I can think is that one is longer than the other, but does anyone know for sure?

My experience with CV joints (on FWD cars) is that when they are bad they make a clicking sound when turning sharp, and a CV on one side will click only when turning one direction, and it is obvious which CV is making the noise. I have not experienced one making noise traveling straight down...

If there is play at 6 and 12, then it is either ball joints or wheel bearings. If there is play at 3 and 9, then it is either tie rods or wheel bearings. If the play is equal in both directions, then wheel bearings is the likely problem. If they are different, then you have at least two...

Thanks Goliath! I followed the prescribed 35 ft. lbs. while rotating, back off 1/4 turn, tighten to 16 inch pounds, then tighten to the nearest slot for the retainer. I doubt they are too tight. I'll go through the process again and see how it goes. I must be nuts, because I'm certain NAPA...

I have a 91 Explorer with the same symptoms. When I turn right enough to take some weight off the right front tire, the noise goes away or is greatly reduced. It is the bearings in my case. This has happened to me before. The inner chase of the inner bearing begins to rotate on the spindle...

From what you say, it sounds like it is worse, or at least more notiable when turning right. What happens when you turn left? Especially when moving fast enough to take some weight off the left front tire? If it sounds better, then I would suspect the wheel bearings on that side.

Here is the latest . . . Something is definitely clogging the heater core. I am certain that the air is out of the system. When I remove the heater hoses, coolant drains out of both tubes of the heater core . . . no air space there. After not getting any heat from the heater for a couple of...

Merry Christmas to all of you! Well, the explorer runs great. All of the coolant seems to be staying where it should be. It put out great heat . . . for a while. Somehow the heater has stopped again. The engine runs great and does not overheat, but the heater core appears to be clogged...

I have seen a number of vehicles that would not start because of a bad battery cable, and your symptoms sound like that could be the problem. When you try to start it, everything goes dead and stays that way. In most cases that I have seen, the posative battery cable is coroded and is not...

Thanks Brian. You're right, the new gasket set comes with a small tube of RTV for the front and back ends under the lower intake manifold. The gaskets that I took out of it had cork ends that looked like they had a bit of RTV on each side to help it seal across where the heads meet the block...

I cleaned up the heads and there are no cracks that I can see. I took them to a machinest and had them resurfaced today. He said one had a 6 thousands warp in it and the other had 4 thousands. I showed him the gaskets when I brought the heads in. He pointed out on the heads and the gaskets...

Update: The new t-stat tests out good when boiled. I ran the engine with no t-stat installed and as expected the engine does not warm up . . . fluid stays relatively cold. However, it still "boiled" out through the overflow. Obviously not boiling, but certainly bubbling. My conclusion...

There is no valve in the heater hose on the 91 through 94 models. I'm not sure when those were introduced, but they are not on the older models of the explorer. The hose goes directly from the top of the engine to the heater core, and the other one goes directly from the heater core to the...

I've had a problem getting heat for some time now, and with the temp outside going below zero now, it's really becoming a problem. The engine temp has been running hotter and hotter and now has begun overheating. What I have already done is, new t-stat, new heater-core, new radiator and cap...

Fix for Rusty Rocker Panel Problem. My 1991 Explorer had the rusted rocker panel problem too. In 1993, Ford covered the rocker panels up with a plastic or fiberglass skirt. That protects the rockers and lower door from rocks, but it did not fix the rust problem on the rocker panels (although...

Sounds like a problem I had about six months ago. Check the u-joints on your drive shaft. You will probably find one of them has some play in it. To check it, put the parking break on and put the truck in nutral. Now crawl under and see if you can detect any play in either u-joint. If...

My idle was doing that when I had an intake manifold leak. Check for an intake manifold leak or a vacuum leak.

You are correct, the pulling to the right is a separate problem. My advice for the crooked steering wheel was for only that problem. My advice for the "Pulls to the Right" problem is earlier in this thread. Sorry if I gave the impression the steering wheel fix was also for the pulling to...

Nope, there's nothing wrong with the truck . . . just the alignment tech's. They just try to get it close. I rarely let anyone work on my Explorer without me standing right there . . . I don't trust 'em. I do most things myself. I'm always standing right there watching the guy who aligns my...

The problem with the stearing wheel not being straight is due to the failure of the person doing the alignment to make sure it is straight when they align the front end. Bring it back and complain until they do it right.

My experience has been that synthetic oil will frequently find someplace to seep out, even on a new vehicle. Take comfort in the fact that the synthetic oil can get into places that conventional oils cannot. Stick with the synthetic!

Hi Everyone! It's been a few months since I've been to this site. Glad to see it's still going strong. My 91 Explorer developed a pull to the right over the first year or two of it's life. It bugged the heck out of me, but I finally figured out what was causing it. The Replacement...

Kevin, Where do you buy your fuel? My personal testing has shown that Amoco 87 octane fuel does not ping while all other brands I've tried do. It may take a tank or two to clean it out, but the Amoco fuels seems to be different than the rest.

After Packing the bearings and installing them, you should initially tighten them very tight. Don't leave them like that though. Back them off just enough to allow the wheel to turn nicely . . . not too lose, but not too tight either. From there, use the closest key slot. Hope that helps.

I changed the u-joints on my 91 EB (4x4 4 door) and had no problem. Everything fit fine.