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Hi there NHarris, I've got two tailight guard sets on sale on Fleebay, pm me if you're interested, I think I've got them selling for 90$ or 100$ BIN plus shipping. They are the same ones as those found in the picture, they do look good, and they've saved my tailights from a runaway shopping...

Amazon had or still has them for 119$ if not amazon the autoparts123, the quick struts from monroe are worth every penny. Plus I see you're from Canada, more the reason. go to amaz0n.c0m type in part number, see part, click on the other sellers or something on the struts' page and get...

Hey IMP, we have to talk, I believe I have the exact same bronze junk in my tranny, I found one lonely chip in the pan last week, which prompted me to open up the filter and found a few grams worth ie. what I believe amounts to be the forward drum thrust washer shredded to bits... I'll post pics...

Up until now, no one else seems to make these toe links. Which is unfortunate cuz here in canada they are 220$ a pop. All it really is is a small tie rod with a horizontal smaller still tie rod at the other end. I'm pretty sure, there is a way to fix one up, I saved my last busted one to try...

If you have advance trac, then that means you have two ABS wheel speed sensors up front, AND two sensors in the back, one at each knuckle where the axles go in. Check obvious problems like unplugged or cut wires. You might try pressing and holding the reset and select buttons for the message...

Your pcv valve is located right where that plastic tube ends on your last pic, its underneath the intake tube. it will have a metal ball (check valve/flow regulator inside) that's the part that rattles. Make sure they give you one made for the 4.6 (verify that part number) as the 4.0 pcv is...

So Gottabigblock, did you ever manage to bunch up those pictures of the 5.4 swap. Or mayber just describe in a bit more detail what if any fabrication was involved with the swap. This is something I'd like to get done as well. thanks

Howdy, I pretty much have the same noise and as far as I can tell it's either torque converter related or its the trans pump.

Hey V8, Same thing happened to me, then it sorta became a squeal/galling metal sound instead. My left side rear wheel bearing was completely toast. Sometimes I could provoke it a bit by swerving at slow speeds. I had to remove the caliper in order for the loose (real loose) bearing to have...

Most likely because ford manuals aren't as easily accessible, be it software or even tougher to find paper version, whereas a hanes or chilton is usualy readily found at your local auto parts store. I have both and the ford service manual is muuuuch better, more detailed, more tedious to...

that's cuz they're made of aluminum, most likely trying to get suspended weight down.

Thanks guys, man I got this done today, what a difference. I cut the 3rd cat off this morning and then left to get a 2 1/2" pipe welded between the y pipe and my 14" 4x9" maggie. I was like what the.....:D the sound was insane it sounded like 4x4 open class tractor pull. It had 0 guts but what...

is the 3rd "cat" a cat or a resonator?? Hi guys, as mentioned in the title, is the "third cat" a a cat or a resonator?? thanks

That's awesome thanks! I knew the steering column was made to be telescopic, but somehow blocked in place. Its funny because I have a 2003 Limited with every single option available minus the dvd player, and the telescopic column. Thanks for adding a free option to my truck ;):thumbsup:

Hi Brandon, how much would it be with shipping to G1W2V4 in Quebec City, Quebec Canada

Two screws/bolts on the bottom of it facing your shins, and then just pull straight towards the seat to get the top three clip loose. its easy you'll see.

glad it helped:thumbsup:

You mention you'd like to change the left side drive shaft, but the driver's side looks good. Do you mean to pull the left or right front axle shaft? Otherwise, it should be pretty straightforward, I did the passenger side seal a couple of months ago. Basically you need to lift the frame to...

I know the explorer block is made of aluminum, so that might be a difference if the crown's is iron

Solved the problem, it a darn splice right after fuse 22 that melted into oblivion, a couple of strands remained connected. That's why I had continuity and 12 volts up until I tried to turn the lights on, relay couldn't get to power it needed since the two strands were impeding current flow...

normally the transfer case bolts onto the transmission, and the tranny bolts up to the engine. which is leaking? I've got a small leak between the engine and the tranny, if I'm lucky its just the valve covers, if I'm unlucky, it'll probably be the rear main seal or the tranny pump seal.:rolleyes:

Did you find out what it was?

did you solve your problem?

Check your fan as the engine is stopped, it seams the viscous clutch makes a groaning hissing sound and the fan spins down.... You could also check the overflow tank cap to see if its leaking pressure...

Check the wires in the rubber boot between the door and the body. I had something similar happen where all the electric motors; seat and pedals worked, but I wasn't able to program the memory. It ended up being two cut wires in that rubber boot and a third ones was stripping itself clean as well.