1998 Explorer XLT Resurrection

I'm a home handyman/mechanic--I've always done my own vehicle repairs and learned by doing and research. I'm not the best, but I've rarely failed to complete a repair project. I'm a new member on explorerforum.

I have been given the opportunity to resurrect a 1998 Explorer that has been parked in a garage for several years. I am not familiar with this vehicle and will be learning as I go and may have occasional questions. I asked my first question on this forum today, but found the answer on a different forum. I was not the first to ask that question, so now that I have found the answer, I want to share it. In that regard, I've decided to create this thread to document this resurrection task in the hope that I can share what I learn for the benefit of others.

Vehicle specs, history and condition. Familiar Matador Red XLT 4-door 4WD. Body is in good shape--a few minor dings, but has never been in an accident. 4.0L V6 SOHC engine, 5-Speed Automatic Overdrive, 4-wheel ABS, and anti-theft system. This engine has a troubled history with several recalls and in this particular vehicle the engine was replaced under recall by a Ford dealership in 2002 or so. According to the owner, when the car was last driven it was not running good, backfiring, and low compression on one side of the engine. The owner has only one key and has lost the only remote FOB. The battery is dead with no hope for revival.

My first task after opening the hood was to remove a couple of rats nests and vacuum rat droppings from every conceivable crevice.

My next post will cover my plan of attack and first step in the process.

low compression on one bank

Welcome to the forum! For the SOHC V6 low compression on all cylinders in one bank usually means a slipped timing chain. There is probably a broken cassette guide on that side of the engine. If its bank 1 (passenger side) then the engine (preferable) or transmission (not too bad if you have access to a hydraulic lift) must be removed to replace the cassette. If its bank 2 (driver side) then the cassette can be replaced with the engine in the vehicle. See my helpful threads for more information.

If you haven't torn the intake manifold off yet, there's bound to be more rat nests under there. I bought an engine that sat for about a year after the vehicle was wrecked and there was droppings and nests everywhere when I tore it apart to replace the harness to the alternator.

Good luck with your project. Hope to read more about it

Thank you,96explorerxlt2wd and 2000StreetRod, for your comments and extremely helpful tips. Don't want to find more rats nests, but I don't want them left in there. The low compression is on the passenger side. I was already thinking I will need to pull the engine. I really appreciate the tip as it gives me a place to look for the problem.

After cleaning out the rats nests, I wanted to get the engine to turn over just to hear it and make sure I could. Since it had not been run in years, my first step was to remove the spark plugs. Those on the driver's side were straight forward using a 5/8" spark plug socket, swivel, extension and ratchet. The passenger side plugs appeared to be difficult to reach until I found they are accessible through the wheel well. All three can easily be removed using the same tools. A two foot extension helps. Some of the spark plug cables were difficult to remove after having been in place so many years. Even with a wire puller a couple required serious effort.

I sprayed a little penetrating oil into each cylinder to dissolve the lacquer and loosen the rings. Borrowing a battery from my '52 Ferguson tractor (with 12V conversion), I tried to crank the engine. No go. It didn't seem to be getting voltage to the solenoid and I noticed that the "Theft" light was flashing. A review of the wiring diagram revealed two relays in the circuit. The first is the Anti-theft Relay which must close to connect the start voltage to the Starter Relay coil. There is also an A/T switch in the circuit which requires the A/T to be in Park or Neutral.

My next problem was locating the Starter Relay. The Haynes manual said it was mounted on the fender well next to the battery, but I found a module for the ABS mounted there. I looked up the part in the Autozone replacement parts so I would know what I was looking for. Another thorough search under the hood and no luck. Coming back to my computer, I found this forum, but did not find the answer to locating the relay. I joined the forum and posted a question. While waiting for a reply, I continued googling until I found the answer in another forum. The starter relay on this model is a cube relay mounted in the Power Distribution unit mounted on the driver's side fender. This is not the relay that Autozone will sell you for this vehicle.

Once the relay was located, I had an assistant turn the key to Start while I measured for voltage at the relay coil. Zero. This plus the flashing "Theft" light pointed me to the Anti-theft Relay, probably not closing. More computer googling and I found a process for programming a PATS key. Remember I have only one key so I went through the program process, which takes 45 minutes. Afterwards the "Theft" light was no longer flashing and I had twelve volts at the coil of the Starter Relay. But the Starter still does not turn over, so now I have to pull it for a bench test.

In the mean time, I have decided that I am going to pull the engine based on the owner telling me the compression is low on the passenger side. Thanks to a post from 2000StreetRod, I suspect a slipped timing chain. The vehicle owner also said there was a lot of rattling noise and that would accompany a slipped chain.

BTW: I learned from Turdle that the Starter Relay location info is available in this forum. It is one of the Stickys at the top of this sub-forum. Thank you, Turdle, and all others who have posted. My next post won't happen for a couple of days.

wait to pull

I suggest waiting to pull the engine until you perform more testing. While a "marbles in the engine rattling sound" and low compression is indicative of a slipped timing chain sounds echo within the block and are difficult to isolate. Unless the compression is low on all cylinders on the right bank you have not confirmed timing chain slip. You could have a blown head gasket, cracked head, broken valve spring or stuck valve. Those and the left cassette, primary chain tensioner and balance shaft tensioner can be repaired/replaced without pulling the engine. Also, the rings could be stuck in the pistons from sitting for so long. My Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon had set in a field for more than a year and had very low compression when I purchased it. I suspected it had the common blown head gasket but after cranking the engine and then adding a small amount of Sea Foam twice a day to each cylinder for a week the compression came up to normal.

Hi 2000StreetRod. Thanks for the suggestion. I may not have been clear--compression is low in all cylinders on the passenger side. Since the right timing chain is on the back of the engine, I will need to pull the engine or possibly just the transmission. I'm up to the challenge of pulling the engine though. My engine stand and hoist are ready.

I've always used Liquid Wrench in the same way you use Sea Foam. A friend of mine who rebuilt British sports cars as a hobby gave me that suggestion when I was reviving a '70 Duster back in late '80s. Gotta admire that 225 slant 6. After a few squirts and turning the engine over w/o the plugs in it, the rings loosened up and the starter kept turning faster and faster. Put the plugs back in and it came to life like it had just been run the day before.

pulling the transmission

The only time I would consider pulling the transmission to replace the rear cassette is if I had unlimited access to a commercial hydraulic lift. I hate working under a vehicle in a confined space (may be related to my POW training in a very small box). Your primary chain tensioner is probably shot so pulling the engine will greatly improve access.

If your passenger side compression is low compared to your driver side compression then I agree the passenger side timing chain has slipped.

This post may be of use: 1 SOHC V6 Engine Removal Procedure

If you PM me your email address I'll send you a copy of the SOHC V6 assembly instructions.

Hi again 2000StreetRod. I went to the link you provided and scanned through it. All I can say is, "WOW!" and "Thank you!" That's way, way better than my Haynes manual. You should receive a PM with my email address soon. And I agree with your point about working under the car on jack stands vs using a lift, which I don't happen to have.

drain the fuel

Even if the previous owner added fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank before parking the vehicle the fuel after several years has probably changed to non-combustible lacquer.

I suggest adding to your just before engine start to do list:
Drain the fuel tank
Check the drained fuel for rust in the tank (replace tank, pump & sock if rusted)

Replace the fuel filter
Get fresh fuel all the way from the tank to the fuel rails
Test the fuel injectors for being clogged (if not clogged add a bottle of Techron to the fuel tank)

Thank you again, 2000StreetRod! Excellent advice!

For those that are following this thread--I haven't done any work on my XLT for the past few days. Took a train trip to visit my son and help him with repairs to his Pathfinder. Returned home yesterday and getting ready for a week-long jaunt to TX, leaving tomorrow. Will be back to this project in another week or so. You would think that a guy that is retired would have more time on his hands for a project like this.

Do you have pictures of the project?

I'm still alive

Some of you may wonder what happened to that guy that started this thread long ago. Last we heard he was taking a trip to Texas. Oh, maybe that's what happened.

Well, I survived Texas, came back to the Pacific Northwest and got involved in other home projects--building a fence, roofing the house, landscaping--we had a great summer for doing a lot of outdoor work. So my Explorer continued to sit. But a few weeks ago, I got back to it, pulled the engine, stripped it, and have purchased a lot of new parts and gaskets.

The most important thing I've learned so far...the bolt that holds the gear on the right camshaft is reverse thread.

Now that I am at the re-assembly stage, I am looking for a way to do the timing without purchasing a $200 "special" tool set that I would probably use only one time. Do any of you have work-around solutions?

I've re-read all the previous posts and want to say "hello" to...

96explorerxlt2wd! You were right. There was a big rats nest under the intake manifold.

2000StreetRod! Your thread "1 SOHC V6 Engine Removal Procedure" is great. Referred to it often while removing the engine. I will be in your list of helpful threads most of the morning looking for advice. Maybe I will find the answer to my question.

1992fordgreen! I have taken pics with my cellphone, but mostly to help me remember what I need to do when re-installing the engine. The pics are poor quality. I do recommend the thread by 2000StreetRod. He has some great pics.

Great! Thnx for the recommendation.

Been kinda doing repairs on my 1998 ford explorer scout...2 dr, 6 cyl SOHC, auto...front wheel drive.

Bit by bit. Good advice here from folks; some I took, other I didn't.
Read a lot of the CHILTON MANUAL as well; talk to 3 diff. mechanics I know;
bring all info together, then make an educated(supposedly) decision.

I don't have garage and tons of tools, so it's not like I can take the engine out; dismantle it in a secured, clean indoor environment.

But...I have a drive way; I live very cheap and I do most of the work myself.
Only way to learn...and cuss in new ways at the same time.

Good luck with your repairs.
MARK11

Hi Mark11. Thanks for the post and good luck to you also. I have learned that 2000StreetRod has a lot of experience with this engine and has posted several threads with helpful procedures. If you haven't already, click on the link "My Helpful Threads" under one of his posts. I just came in from the garage to check his thread "SOHC V6 Torque Specifications." And if you learn anything really good, please post again and let us know. I am always open to learning from others. But my wife made me stop cussing after I got out of the Navy.

My share of swear words

I swear like there's no tomorrow...ex-ARMY and all, and even with my ex girlfriends...I work on my Truck stuff alone because I just go volcanic! I throw stuff around, the whole nine yards. Lot better than being saint about it and keeping it bottled up.

Good luck on your EXPLORER; I'll let you know if anything wierd happens on mine.

MARK11

Looking forward to this.

About to start my own thread similar to this when temperatures start to warm up.

Goodluck

Received a phone call today. The rest of the parts I've been waiting for have arrived at the part store, but looks like I will not be able to go pick them up till Friday. So here is a status update.

The engine is on the stand and I had removed all the old timing chains and cassettes except the chain for the balance shaft. I've been cleaning cavities and wire brushing some surface rust on the block. Today I replaced the balance shaft chain, tensioner and guide. I used 2000StreetRod's thread as a guide: Balance Shaft Timing Procedure. I would like to add a note that I found in my Hayne's manual. "DO NOT remove the balance shaft sprocket bolt."

And a quick hello to ZWilson07. Thank you for posting and good luck to you on your project.