'00 V8 AWD CV joint or Transfer case [Video included]

[Slicer89]

Figured I'd try this again. This is the noise my 2000 V8 all wheel drive Explorer XLT mades when accelerating. Sometimes it isn't as bad if I am light on the gas. It doesn't do it decelerating, or while turning. Just while under acceleration. At first I thought the chain was slipping cause this noise, But I searched and searched on this forum and saw other people with what sounded like the same problem.

I'm also going to assume the Viscous coupler inside is what's allowing the back wheels to spin and not the front (While I am holding the brake down) or is my chain really stretched and slipping?

Please excuse my ugly mug in the picture. Wanted to make sure all my wheels got a chance to spin.

I'm also guessing removing the D shaft really won't pinpoint my issue, because if it is a chain slipping... Once it has nothing to put power to, it won't jump teeth.

The CV joint and boot look intact, and there isn't any play in either the U joint or the CV joint. But it still makes this noise.


Heres the video:

http://youtu.be/Wf6W9HpmXsA

 

[shadowless127]

EDIT: Just watched again. It looks like something up front is binding and it is affecting the entire drivetrain, because your back wheels will just stop as soon as you let go of the gas.

My guess is either the front diff is binding, or the front prop shaft is binding and hanging up the t-case. The sound is leading me to question the front diff still though.

 

[Slicer89]

EDIT: Just watched again. It looks like something up front is binding and it is affecting the entire drivetrain, because your back wheels will just stop as soon as you let go of the gas.

My guess is either the front diff is binding, or the front prop shaft is binding and hanging up the t-case. The sound is leading me to question the front diff still though.

I failed to mention that during the video, I had my foot on the brake to give it some friction. If I just put it up and gave it gas, it wouldn't make the noise.

I did have my foot on the brake, that is why it was like that.

When I had it jacked up, I could spin it fairly easy with my hand.

 

[SoNic67]

IMO, the CV on the front prop shaft is binding. Remove the front shaft temporarily and see if it makes the noise anymore.
Don't drive without front shaft more than a few seconds or 1/8 miles - regardless what people might think, the TC manufacturer say it will damage the Viscous Coupling inside TC.

 

[bill06447]

Second the front shaft suspicion. Take ten minutes, drop the shaft, and see if the noise goes away. I'd put money on it being the CV joint or U joint.

I recall you originally posting this months ago....why haven't you removed the front driveshaft yet and taken a peek at the joints?

Bill

 

[my98nnj]

While he's braking it, the front isn't spinning, only the rear is so that would rule out the front DS. Sounds like gears grinding, have you opened the rear diff?
Can you get somebody to listen while you've got it up in the air to better pin point the location of the noise?

 

[SoNic67]

Braking goes much more on front than on rear. Bigger discs, bigger brake pads, dual cylinders...
I would say close to nothing goes on rear when suspended, because the rear load distributor valve being closed.

 

[koda2000]

Braking goes much more on front than on rear. Bigger discs, bigger brake pads, dual cylinders...
I would say close to nothing goes on rear when suspended, because the rear load distributor valve being closed.

for what it's worth... common wisdom is that about 75-80% of braking is done by the front wheels and only 20-25% is done by the rear wheels. this is further evidenced by the fact that the front rotors/calipers are much larger than the rears and that the rear pads last up to 3 times longer than the front pads..

i agree. remove the front shaft and see what effect that has on your problem.

 

[Slicer89]

Second the front shaft suspicion. Take ten minutes, drop the shaft, and see if the noise goes away. I'd put money on it being the CV joint or U joint.

I recall you originally posting this months ago....why haven't you removed the front driveshaft yet and taken a peek at the joints?

Bill

I tried one day, and ended up breaking my only torx 27 bit off in the bolt. A friend of mine is supposed to help me today.

Now to the people who said the front isn't spinning, I had my foot on the brakes to give it some load. If I am not mistaken, The coupler is supposed to allow the front to spin independently to the rear (While turning, etc) But I am not 100% sure.

Going to try to pull the shaft today. Gonna inspect the joints on both ends.

 

[SoNic67]

Get a good Torx set (mine are for 1/2" ratchet). Spray TODAY some penetrant (PB Blaster)in front, so it works for tomorrow.
My U-Joint was "welded" in place by rust - it took PB Blaster and a hammer (hitting towards back of the truck) to dislodge it from the point in the picture.

 

[Slicer89]

Get a good Torx set (mine are for 1/2" ratchet). Spray TODAY some penetrant (PB Blaster)in front, so it works for tomorrow.
My U-Joint was "welded" in place by rust - it took PB Blaster and a hammer (hitting towards back of the truck) to dislodge it from the point in the picture.

Mine ended up being a Torx 30, and 5/16 to get the back CV joint off. Two of the bolts were stripped and had to burn them off with a torch.

Guess what?

THE NOISE IS COMPLETELY 100% GONE WITHOUT THE FRONT DRIVESHAFT IN PLACE

Now would that be my CV joint or no?

 

[SoNic67]

80% CV, 20% U-Joint
My experience:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3252817&postcount=31

PS: Don't drive it without it, no matter how tempting it sounds.

 

[bill06447]

Pop the end cap off the CV joint, peek inside, and decide if you'd be quiet wallowing around in that mess replace both joints-simple procedure. But before ordering the CV kit, pop the snap ring and slide it off the spline, checking carefully for wear on the splines. If any, it's time for a replacement driveshaft.

Bill

 

[Slicer89]

Pop the end cap off the CV joint, peek inside, and decide if you'd be quiet wallowing around in that mess replace both joints-simple procedure. But before ordering the CV kit, pop the snap ring and slide it off the spline, checking carefully for wear on the splines. If any, it's time for a replacement driveshaft.

Bill

I'm gonna do that this week. Thanks for all the input guys.

How much driving would it be before the coupler starts to get damage?