-
Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator,
Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Register Today It's free!
- Forums
- Generation Specific Forums
- 2002 - 2005 Explorer Mountaineer 3rd Generation
- Modified 2002 - 2005 Explorers
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
How to: 1.5" body lift for less than $50
- Thread starter Ronin8002
- Start date
Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
Ronin8002
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- March 23, 2003
- Messages
- 4,363
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2008 XLT Ironman
There will not be a gap. The front bumper moulding is part of the body and not attached to the frame, so it moves up 1.5" with the rest of the body. The bumper reinforcement bar behind it does not move since it's fixed to the frame. you can't tell and it doesn't affect anything.
MRay061
Member
- Joined
- January 5, 2015
- Messages
- 16
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Collinsville Illinois
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer XLS 4.0
So what I don't understand then is to do the 3" body lift you need that bracket for the ranger and widen the mounting holes, to lift the front bumper, but you're saying I don't need any modification ?
Ronin8002
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- March 23, 2003
- Messages
- 4,363
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2008 XLT Ironman
So what I don't understand then is to do the 3" body lift you need that bracket for the ranger and widen the mounting holes, to lift the front bumper, but you're saying I don't need any modification ?
The reason the 3" requires brackets in front is that the body gets lifted enough that the bumper reinforcement will interfere with the reinstallation of the bumper cover moulding. So the brackets move up the bumper reinforcement so it sits in the original position in relation to the body. Not needed with the 1.5" lift....There is enough room for the bumper cover moulding to fit back on without modification.
ezg594
Member
- Joined
- November 26, 2014
- Messages
- 12
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- ormoc city, leyte
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 sport trac
A few people have been asking me about where to get a 1.5" body lift. I PMd another member this information but I figured other people could benefit too. Thanks to JSHaag for being the first one to show that this one works: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2479410&postcount=356
When i did the 1.5" body lift, the lift blocks came out the PA-883 kit. It's not necessary to buy that kit to do a 1.5" body lift though, since you really don't need the brackets and steering shaft extension.
It's pretty simple, really, and should cost you around 50 bucks at most.
You'll need 5, 3" tall by 3" wide body lift blocks, available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Zone-Offroad-Bulk-Tall-Block/dp/B0021IAOQE
Once you get those, you'll need to take a band saw or a miter saw and cut them in half. There's a nice casting line at the halfway point on the plastic blocks you can use as a guide. If you don't have access to one of those power saws you could also put the blocks in a vise and use a hacksaw or something.
Anyway when you cut those blocks in half, you now have 10 1.5" blocks, which is the number you need.
Now for the bolts. There are 5 pairs of bolts/mounts; I'm going to call them by a letter to make it easier to explain.
A= the pair of mounts at the very front of the truck
B= the pair of mounts in the foot area of the driver and front passenger seats
C= the pair of mounts behind the front two seats
D= the pair of mounts just underneath the rear seats
E= the pair of mounts at the very back of the truck under the liftgate
Your factory body mount bolts are for the most part too short to use once the lift blocks are in place. They are all different lengths so some of the longer ones will be re-used for different places in the truck. Some you will have to buy, however. I used www.boltdepot.com since they were hard to find at any local hardware store. If you don't use Bolt Depot make sure to use Grade 8 bolts for the best strength. Here's what you can re-use and what you need to order:
A= You'll need to order 2 replacements, but save the old ones. The new size is 12mm x 1.75 x 120mm. Bolt depot part number is 6135. If you don't use Bolt Depot make sure to get ones that are threaded for the whole length (this is for the front only, the rest can just have the end threaded).
B= You'll need to order 2 replacements, but save the old ones. The new size is 12mm x 1.75 x 150mm. Bolt depot part number is 6274.
C= You can re-use the old "A" bolts you took from the very front here.
D= You can re-use the old "B" bolts you took from the front seat foot area here.
E= You'll need to order 2 replacements. You don't need to save the old ones unless you want them later to go back to stock if you have to. The size is 12mm x 1.75 x 130mm.
So again, you're re-using 4 bolts and buying 6.
That's all you need for parts. It'll be about 15 bucks plus shipping for the bolts and about 19 bucks plus shipping for the lift blocks.
The installation steps are otherwise very similar as the 3" body lift, which is in 2 parts in these two threads:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2395137&postcount=342
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2395138&postcount=343
With the following exceptions:
-No steering extension or bumper brackets are needed.
-For the rear bumper cover, the metal part of the bumper will touch the bumper once the lift is in, so you need to trim some of the plastic on the underside of the bumper to allow the metal part to clear
-For the fan shroud, the lower fan shroud will need to be trimmed a bit (about an inch or so) on the inside curve so the fan doesn't rub on it.
One more thing, make sure you disconnect the steering shaft and lower fan shroud before you jack the body up to insert the lift blocks. Otherwise you might damage your steering system or your fan.
Here are a few pics of my truck with 265/75/16 tires and when it had just the 1.5" lift installed:
![]()
![]()
![]()
For those people who needed to know the bolt lengths (if they didn't want to re-use some of their factory bolts), here are ALL the bolt lengths needed to complete the lift (thanks Lynchy):
A- 120 mm
B- 150 mm
C- 110 mm
D- 120 mm
E- 130 mm
wow!!! this is just great!
will this method be applicable to a 2002 ford explorer sport trac?
I'm thinking on doing this to mine.
Ronin8002
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- March 23, 2003
- Messages
- 4,363
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2008 XLT Ironman
wow!!! this is just great!
will this method be applicable to a 2002 ford explorer sport trac?
I'm thinking on doing this to mine.
Not sure, search or ask in the Sport Trac forums

- Joined
- March 16, 2013
- Messages
- 4,377
- Reaction score
- 281
- City, State
- Woodstock, GA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 04 Ford Explorer 4.6l
Anyone know what happens to one of these 1.5" BL in a decent wreck? Do the bolts and spacers hold? Or does the body want to shear off?
Ronin8002
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- March 23, 2003
- Messages
- 4,363
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2008 XLT Ironman
Anyone know what happens to one of these 1.5" BL in a decent wreck? Do the bolts and spacers hold? Or does the body want to shear off?
I got in a serious wreck in my last explorer (2004 model) with a 3" body lift. Body stayed firmly attached to the frame. Truck was totaled though.
JJexplorer77
Active Member
- Joined
- June 8, 2014
- Messages
- 62
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Ogden Utah
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 Ford Explorer
Does anyone have a write up or information on doing a 2" BL?
03Sport
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- January 18, 2013
- Messages
- 124
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Augusta, GA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Ford Explorer Sport
Does anyone know if this will work for a 02 Explorer Sport?
I would like to know as well, if would work the same on an 2001-2003 model.
DaaQ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- August 9, 2015
- Messages
- 201
- Reaction score
- 25
- City, State
- South KY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer XLT 4x4
Do you guys think the 1.5" lift would work with my X having factory installed tow hooks on the front ? I'm thinking removing the lower molding would work.
OK do you need to have membership to post pictures?
Link to pic hopefully. https://goo.gl/photos/QrP1162FuuUn3WjL6
OK do you need to have membership to post pictures?
Link to pic hopefully. https://goo.gl/photos/QrP1162FuuUn3WjL6
Ronin8002
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- March 23, 2003
- Messages
- 4,363
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2008 XLT Ironman
Do you guys think the 1.5" lift would work with my X having factory installed tow hooks on the front ? I'm thinking removing the lower molding would work.
OK do you need to have membership to post pictures?
Link to pic hopefully. https://goo.gl/photos/QrP1162FuuUn3WjL6
Yes it will work. The lower molding must be removed like you said.
DaaQ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- August 9, 2015
- Messages
- 201
- Reaction score
- 25
- City, State
- South KY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer XLT 4x4
I just want to add, if you get the stand alone blocks, from Zone Offroad's site themselves. They were half the cost as from Amazon. Ordered this morning and they shipped this afternoon.
[MENTION=9758]Ronin[/MENTION], did you pitch the oem bushings altogether? I did a 3" body lift on a 97 ranger way back then and I cant remember if it went straight blocks or used any sort of bushings.
Link from manufacturer
[MENTION=9758]Ronin[/MENTION], did you pitch the oem bushings altogether? I did a 3" body lift on a 97 ranger way back then and I cant remember if it went straight blocks or used any sort of bushings.
Link from manufacturer
Ronin8002
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- March 23, 2003
- Messages
- 4,363
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2008 XLT Ironman
Good tip on getting the blocks direct from Zone offroad.
Yes I kept all the OEM bushings, just put the blocks in between them and the body.
Yes I kept all the OEM bushings, just put the blocks in between them and the body.
I just want to add, if you get the stand alone blocks, from Zone Offroad's site themselves. They were half the cost as from Amazon. Ordered this morning and they shipped this afternoon.
[MENTION=9758]Ronin[/MENTION], did you pitch the oem bushings altogether? I did a 3" body lift on a 97 ranger way back then and I cant remember if it went straight blocks or used any sort of bushings.
Link from manufacturer
DaaQ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- August 9, 2015
- Messages
- 201
- Reaction score
- 25
- City, State
- South KY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer XLT 4x4
Ok, so while trying to determine if my rear psgr hub bearings are bad, I believe they are. I can feel play in it at 12 and 6 o clock points, plus at speed thru a curve to the right the noise lessens, to the left it increases. I discovered I have a broken coil on drivers side rear.
Any recommendations on strut assemblies all the way around? Going to get the BTF arms and spacers once Paypal verifies.
I could get Monroe economies for about $70 ea
Monroe quik struts for about $110 ea
Or Moog's for about $90 each.
Then there is a 4 pack from Unity for about $225 for all 4
Any recommendations on strut assemblies all the way around? Going to get the BTF arms and spacers once Paypal verifies.
I could get Monroe economies for about $70 ea
Monroe quik struts for about $110 ea
Or Moog's for about $90 each.
Then there is a 4 pack from Unity for about $225 for all 4
Ronin8002
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- March 23, 2003
- Messages
- 4,363
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2008 XLT Ironman
A lot of people seem to like the Monroe Quick Struts. I know that Moog also makes good products generally too. I used some of their coil springs in the past and liked them.
Ok, so while trying to determine if my rear psgr hub bearings are bad, I believe they are. I can feel play in it at 12 and 6 o clock points, plus at speed thru a curve to the right the noise lessens, to the left it increases. I discovered I have a broken coil on drivers side rear.
Any recommendations on strut assemblies all the way around? Going to get the BTF arms and spacers once Paypal verifies.
I could get Monroe economies for about $70 ea
Monroe quik struts for about $110 ea
Or Moog's for about $90 each.
Then there is a 4 pack from Unity for about $225 for all 4
DaaQ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- August 9, 2015
- Messages
- 201
- Reaction score
- 25
- City, State
- South KY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer XLT 4x4
A lot of people seem to like the Monroe Quick Struts. I know that Moog also makes good products generally too. I used some of their coil springs in the past and liked them.
[MENTION=16158]Ronin8002[/MENTION] How do you feel the 2" body lift would work? I bought all bolts for the 1.5" but my miter saw didn't do any justice. I was left with uneven pieces.
Do you think the 2" would require steering extension or any brake line additional lengths? Plus all the bolts I picked up were the recommended from the 1.5 lift. Any possibility they would be long enough?
Thanks in advance.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
DaaQ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- August 9, 2015
- Messages
- 201
- Reaction score
- 25
- City, State
- South KY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer XLT 4x4
Good tip on getting the blocks direct from Zone offroad.
Yes I kept all the OEM bushings, just put the blocks in between them and the body.
Ronin, my attempt at cutting the 3" blocks failed miserably. Do you think the 2" blocks would work without using steering extension, also with the bolt lengths you recommended in the 1.5 lift thread?
Similar threads
- Replies
- 9
- Views
- 2,952
- Replies
- 4
- Views
- 1,201
- Replies
- 5
- Views
- 1,073
- Replies
- 5
- Views
- 1,202
- Replies
- 10
- Views
- 1,229