120:1

[Positive Vibes]

The doubler goes between the trans and the stock T-case. That moves the stock T-case back 8.5". That means the front shaft needs to be lengthened to reach it.

Gotcha. Thanks. I thought the doubler went after the tcase.

 

[410Fortune]

that is SHORT
It would be even worse on my truck with the AOD-E and AA adapter

High angle driveline would be needed.
I am thinking Atlas or built/geared D20 in my future....

 

[tacorocketswiss]

If money is not a dilema, look into a stak 3 speed case. Those seem to be a perfect solution for the guys looking to keep drivetrains short and d line angles livable. I believe they are 1" shorter than a stock jeep setup. IMO, a 3 sp case is the way to go for best versatility.

 

[RangerX]

Can you post a pic showing how the new crossmember supports the doubler? I want to do that with mine.

bump.

 

[tacorocketswiss]

Sorry, will get on that asap...

 

[tacorocketswiss]

Here are some pics of how the doubler is supported. They are not very clear, and I apologize for that. I forgot to shoot in macro. But you can still get the idea. There are still a couple other things I need to get finished up before she’s 100% road worthy again.

Also on a side not; this was mentioned before about being difficult to seal the doubler to the t case due to the fact that a machined surface has been welded. I have some minor leaks already, haven’t traced to where they are exactly. When I installed the cases I used red rtv to create my seals. (I may not have let them cure enough, and the curing was definitely not at room temp.) so that might have had an affect on it. More updates as I figure things out.

 

[Stic-o]

Did you make the RA mounts yourself or are they off something else. Almost look live Ford Van RA mounts

 

[tacorocketswiss]

They're a ranchy hybrid. The part where the rad arm mounts to was used and then 1/4" steel was heated and rolled around to fit it. I've never seen ford van mounts, so I couldn;t tell you if they are the same.

 

[RangerX]

Thanks for the doubler mount pics, taco.

 

[tacorocketswiss]

Update on the doubler; somewhat...

Well, here’s an update on the doubler. Got everything working and took it out for a simple test run. We were at the beginning of the road where it was a bit snowy with deep ruts. Decided to put it in 4Hi to help out with the traction. Managed to get around a little bit. Played in some snow and continued up the road, nothing too major. All of a sudden I hear a loud BANG and my buddy over the CB saying I’m bleeding. I knew at that point that the trip was over.

Thank you Ford for a T case with an aluminum housing. I am not sure what caused the failure. I believe that it was one of those fluke incidents that was just waiting to happen. It occurred in 4 hi with not much stress on any drive train components. I was just casually cruising up the road with no tire spin 2nd gear and lower rpm’s. The doubler wasn’t engaged and nothing I can think of on my part could have caused it. The only other possible explanation is when the rear flange on the t case was removed last week; it was torqued on too tight during reassembly (but is this even a possible outcome of something like that?) Well in the end, I’m in the market for a new BW1350 and I didn’t even get to test out the new doubler off road. (scratch 1 for carnage, 0 for Ford) It’ll be down and out for a while before I can get time to tear it apart and get it all put back together, and this is all depending on the availability of a t case.

 

[RockRanger]

Do you think maybe your rear drive shaft is to long and you compressed it to far and caused it to smash the tcase like that?

 

[tacorocketswiss]

Do you think maybe your rear drive shaft is to long and you compressed it to far and caused it to smash the tcase like that?

I was on a level surface and was cruising normally. No rear flex or anything that would have caused it to bind. Unless it happened prior and just decided to fail at that time. IMO I had very little stress on the components at the time of failure.

 

[410Fortune]

Dayum thats a new one right there.....
Whats the plan?
Could have just been bad luck with a bad casting???

 

[Positive Vibes]

Well thats a frickin bummer!

 

[tacorocketswiss]

I have three ideas running through my head

1) The flange nut was over tourqued (possible, but not plausible)
2) The driveshaft was too long (but the breakage occurred on level ground)
3) Faulty transmission/t case mounts (but all those are new and had been checked over)


Another possibility is axlewrap, but as far as axle wrap, I had been on the gun before and didn’t have a failure. What stumps me is the fact that I don't think that I had that much stress on the system (4 HI). But I'm not ruling that out yet either.

In the end, it may have just been a fluke failure in the casing. I've got a new case coming and I'll check things over again during the install. Well see what happens next. Any input or ideas?

 

[tacorocketswiss]

Just in case this is still in anybody's interest. I ended up getting a new T case. Pre 86 without the casting for a shift motor. Put everything back together and started driving.





Overall, the doublers works flawlessly both on and offroad and the 120:1 crawl ratio is great. As far as the previous breakage of my tcase, I'm ruling that out as flawed casting (yet it still seems unlikely) The d shaft might have been too short, but it never bottomed out hard enough to pop the end cap out, and I figured in order to break the t case like that, it would show signs. Even though my current set up worked just fine, I may still give Jesse over at High Angle a call and see if he can set me up with something a bit better. I had to clearance my current cv and would like to be able to get more drop out of the rear some time in the rear future. A high angle would allow for that and I could keep my current d line as a spare.
Another issues already covered was sealing the doupbler against the tcase. After I reinstalled it, I did get another leak, and over the course of a few weeks it worsened (could be my fault) But the driving and stress it was put under may have helped. It's to the point now that I feel I need to take it appart and try to reseal it. I have another run coming up and may just seal it with RTV again, slap it all otgether and see how it holds. If it fails on me again I may take it to a machine shop and see if they can face the mounting surface. More update on that later.