1992 ABS bypass

[logeorge]

The general opinion seems to be that the rear-wheel-only ABS system on 1st gen Explorers is pretty much junk and can be bypassed to eliminate a troublesome system. I've seen posts elsewhere saying that all you need is a coupling to tie the line from the master cylinder and the one going to the rear brakes together, eliminating the hydraulic unit. The trouble is that the nut on the lines are 7/16-24 thread and the lines are 3/16", which normally takes a smaller nut. Any adapter I can find with the right thread has a tube seat and center hole for 1/4" line, which is too large in diameter for the smaller line to seat on and seal. Any ideas, or should I put in a new line from master cylinder to the rear end of the vehicle?

 

[BKennedy]

Is the ABS module located up by the driver side radiator core support? Isn't there enough brake line to make it up to the master cylinder? When I deleted my ABS on my 1994, there was plenty of brake line to reroute it up to the master cylinder. All I had to do was cut off the end at the right length, then double flare it with the master cylinder nut.

 

[1sicbronconut]

Is the ABS module located up by the driver side radiator core support? Isn't there enough brake line to make it up to the master cylinder? When I deleted my ABS on my 1994, there was plenty of brake line to reroute it up to the master cylinder. All I had to do was cut off the end at the right length, then double flare it with the master cylinder nut.

It's RABS small module on the left frame rail, if the original lines are in good shape why not cut off both ends at the RABS module, make new flares and add a piece to replace the RABS module??

 

[BKennedy]

OK, its on the inside of the frame rail. How about cutting both ends off at the RABS module and using a 3/16 pressure union to splice the line together?
Like these as an example
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5574912417&icep_item=284015571908

 

[410Fortune]

It took me a bit when I did this years and years ago but I was able to make the jump from one line to the other and bypass the RABS unit all together.....the dude at carquest and I took about an hour to come up with a bolt in solution... that was YEARS ago
Now days I would just cut the brake hard line and re flare it to accept a fitting that will bolt up
or build a whole new line to bypass it
RABS sucks!! I hated it, never had a problem since

 

[logeorge]

It took me a bit when I did this years and years ago but I was able to make the jump from one line to the other and bypass the RABS unit all together.....the dude at carquest and I took about an hour to come up with a bolt in solution... that was YEARS ago
Now days I would just cut the brake hard line and re flare it to accept a fitting that will bolt up
or build a whole new line to bypass it
RABS sucks!! I hated it, never had a problem since

It looks like that's what I'll have to do. I've wasted a lot of time trying to rig up some kind of coupling. I even got part numbers for Weatherhead fittings that are supposed to work, but can't find any place that has them is stock. I'm not going to buy them if I can't look at them to see if they will actually fit.

 

[410Fortune]

if I remember it was a metric fitting jump to a standard fitting, but that was on my 1988
I do know it was a miracle we were able to come up with the correct fittings to make the jump
Now days like I said I would just cut a line, flare it to the fitting I need, remove the RABS pump from the frame and replace as much of the hard line needed to bypass it. The auto parts stores sell lengths of brake line and standard lines can be flared to accept metric fittings, and vise versa. So you can create a line that is lets say 1/4" fitting and flare on one side and 8mm flare and fitting on the other, or whatever those screwy bits are that thread into the RABS motor

 

[logeorge]

if I remember it was a metric fitting jump to a standard fitting, but that was on my 1988
I do know it was a miracle we were able to come up with the correct fittings to make the jump
Now days like I said I would just cut a line, flare it to the fitting I need, remove the RABS pump from the frame and replace as much of the hard line needed to bypass it. The auto parts stores sell lengths of brake line and standard lines can be flared to accept metric fittings, and vise versa. So you can create a line that is lets say 1/4" fitting and flare on one side and 8mm flare and fitting on the other, or whatever those screwy bits are that thread into the RABS motor

I finally gave up on trying to find fittings and bought a better flaring tool. The one I first used was one of those with the two bars with the various holes and the wing nuts at each end to clamp the tubing. In several tries, the a part that seals looked OK, but the flare was always way off center. They were very consistent. Always off center by about the same amount. Sometimes you just have to pay the price for a good tool is spite of being a cheapskate. Things are starting to look up now except for the power booster which, I believe, is hanging up and not allowing the brakes to release. Fortunately, they are fairly easy to replace.

 

[410Fortune]

yes easy to replace
A good flare tool that can do a reverse flare or bubble flare is awesome to have for these trucks, they use a mix of metric and standard lines and fittings.....thanks alot Ford!!

 

[logeorge]

yes easy to replace
A good flare tool that can do a reverse flare or bubble flare is awesome to have for these trucks, they use a mix of metric and standard lines and fittings.....thanks alot Ford!!

They do it on other parts. too. A minor example: I once had an '80 Mustang 4 cyl. and to take the starter off required metric tools for the mounting bolts and a 3/8" wrench for the nut on the wire. I worked in a Ford plant for 40 years. I've told people that just because it doesn't make sense doesn't mean that Ford won't do it! But then I have done things myself that don't necessarily make sense when I look back on them.

 

[logeorge]

They do it on other parts. too. A minor example: I once had an '80 Mustang 4 cyl. and to take the starter off required metric tools for the mounting bolts and a 3/8" wrench for the nut on the wire. I worked in a Ford plant for 40 years. I've told people that just because it doesn't make sense doesn't mean that Ford won't do it! But then I have done things myself that don't necessarily make sense when I look back on them.

Well, after much struggle I have brakes that work. The problem turned out to be the booster. It held vacuum and the push rod would return, seemingly as normal, but when we tried to bleed the brakes the pedal would stop a little short of full return. Lifting the pedal with the toes caused a "pop" as it came the rest of the way back. I took the booster out and it acted the same way off the vehicle. I would push the rod in, then pull it back and it would stop short and "pop" when I pulled it the rest of the way. The fun was in the details: trying to get the nuts back on the studs, the brake light switch in place and the little spring clip that holds everything in place to go back on. While I was working on that I noticed that the clutch pedal was swinging freely. The bushing had broken and the clutch cylinder push rod came off. Had to buy a set of shift rod bushings to get the one I needed. I was a minor PITA to get it installed as you can only get one hand to it, unless you are more of a contortionist than I am. So now it is working, the RABS system is bypassed and I'm waiting for the next thing to go haywire. For sure I'm going to have to pull the instrument cluster to see if I can get the tach and fuel gauge to work. I pulled the anti-slosh module and cleaned and re-soldered it last fall, but it still doesn't work. The tach got the same treatment and worked for a while, then started working whenever it took a notion to. Now it shows 3400 rpm all the time. More fun times!