1993 Explorer Sport 4.0L A/C issues

[InTitusvilleFL]

I recently installed "ALL" new A/C parts. I took it to a shop to charge the system and they could get about 40 or 50 on the low side and only about 120 on the high side. The company I bought the compressor from wanted me to take it to a "chain" shop that would know what was wrong with it so I brought it to Tire Kingdom. They told me it was the compressor. The buyer refused to send me a new compressor so I purchased a new compressor and the place that I purchased the accumulator from sent me a free replacement. SO now I have an "ALL" new system except for a new accumulator and new compressor without oil, the first compressor came with oil and the system ran for about a total of 2 hours.

Since the new compressor doesn't come with oil and it's not a contained system for the oil and the oil flows through the whole system how much oil is still in the system keep in mind I'm putting in a new accumulator and if there isn't enough oil in the system how do I add it. I purchased gauges and a vacuum pump and plan to do this myself this time. If I evacuate the system does that mean all the oil comes out or is there still oil in the system and how do I add oil and how much do I add.

This is the fifth time I'm installed "ALL" new A/C parts in an early 1990s ford and had it charge for me and never a problem and this time it's cost me over $200 for shops to screw it up so I figured it's time to learn to do this myself and purchased equipment to do this, just need some advice since I've really seen this done once and really sick of paying out and still not have working A/C

 

[Rick]

It's suggested that if you don't know how much oil you have in the system to flush it all out and start over with a full compressor.

Amazon has a bunch of flush kits available:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...t&sprefix=ac+flush,aps,442&crid=2F8OZIUOR1IJU

 

[InTitusvilleFL]

Any advice how to use the flush and does that clean out any and all oil left anyplace in the system?

Also, once the system is flushed how do I add the oil? Directly in the compressor our through the gauges and how?

 

[Rick]

Here is a thread with info on flushing:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ressor-accumulator-and-orfice-tube-95.220146/

And another about compressor oil:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/ac-oil-amounts.378436/

 

[Centaurious]

You don't have to keep replacing Accumulators. All an Accumulator is is a catch can for liquid freon that may leave the evaporator. It is there so that liquid freon does not enter the compressor because liquids are not compressible. It is empty inside.

 

[InTitusvilleFL]

I tried to empty the old compressor and nothing came out. I need to replace the accumulator because of a leak in the valve. I was told the valve doesn't leak with the retro-fit on but after I was told that and drove home the system was empty. I called and they blamed the compressor so I have a new compressor and new accumulator. Now, with no oil in the old compressor and with a new accumulator should I assume there's no oil and I need to put oil in the compressor and if I do put oil in the system should I just pour it in the compressor them attach the A/C lines?

Thanks all...

 

[Jason94sport]

What is most important is the orface tube.....You NEED to get the old one out of there. Should be in the bottom hard line going to the accumulator. And then flush the system.

 

[roscoe 0202]

the ac system needs 10 oz oil 7 in compressor and 3 in accumulator this is from a 92 ex factory manual.
roscoe

 

[larrydd999]

I wonder if one or more of the shops didn't change the o-rings when repairing the system. I'm assuming you've changed from R12 to R134a, which uses the green colored o-rings, different oil, and a different orifice tube, as well as changing the high and low pressure fittings. I also agree that given your situation it would be a good idea to completely flush the system and start over. When all is re-assembled, pull a vacuum, then verify the gauge display doesn't change (I left mine set up for about 2 hours). (A pressure test would be better but dry nitrogen is a bit difficult to obtain.) I have a '94 which came with R134a so didn't have to do a conversion, but I did have to rebuild the system 3-4 years ago. It still works fine, I just have to remember to turn it on occasionally throughout the year to keep the seals functional.