Cedar
Member
- Joined
- November 2, 2010
- Messages
- 29
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Portland, OR
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '94 XLT
1994 Explorer XLT, stock wiring
On the PDB I see small tabs on the yellow inserts inside the box and the numerous small clips running around the outside of the box as well as two bolts, one with a wire leading to the starter. Do the yellow inserts release, if so which way, towards me or into the box ?
How do I disassemble this box to do a visual inspection on the wires and find out what's shorting or not grounding?
Why? When I give the power distribution box a "ford tap" the engine stutters, almost dies, revs high, and recovers in about 15 seconds. (I'm concerned about the safety of my engine if I use that as a diagnostic procedure going forward, I'm not sure how else to figure out if I've solved the problem. How dangerous is this and what's the right way to proceed here?)
More details:
I've been having what I thought were relay issues, cranks fine, no CEL, no start. I replaced all the relays and the car died going down the road AFTER I'd wire brushed all of the ground contacts under the hood and dash. Had it 23 years and it never died going down the road, only the typical crank no start issue. With the record heat I checked the PCM, looks immaculate, no damage to the capacitors or anything in there. I've checked some of the wires through the firewall with the DVOM to pins like 8 and 22. I was able to get 1.2 Ohm to ground on the yellow wire at the PCM. The only other odd things are across the fuel pump fuse I only get 11.8 V and with the negative cable disconnected, I have 1.8 V between the positive terminal and the negative cable/chassis of the car. That's gotta be the PCM or radio right?
Also, the red/light green wire to the ignition coil is worn bare at the connector. What's the appropriate fix for that? It doesn't look like anything else is worn there for it to short on. I might just cover it in RTV and electrical tape but I understand it could be corroded further down now. Exposed wire looks shiny, slightly frayed.
On the PDB I see small tabs on the yellow inserts inside the box and the numerous small clips running around the outside of the box as well as two bolts, one with a wire leading to the starter. Do the yellow inserts release, if so which way, towards me or into the box ?
How do I disassemble this box to do a visual inspection on the wires and find out what's shorting or not grounding?
Why? When I give the power distribution box a "ford tap" the engine stutters, almost dies, revs high, and recovers in about 15 seconds. (I'm concerned about the safety of my engine if I use that as a diagnostic procedure going forward, I'm not sure how else to figure out if I've solved the problem. How dangerous is this and what's the right way to proceed here?)
More details:
I've been having what I thought were relay issues, cranks fine, no CEL, no start. I replaced all the relays and the car died going down the road AFTER I'd wire brushed all of the ground contacts under the hood and dash. Had it 23 years and it never died going down the road, only the typical crank no start issue. With the record heat I checked the PCM, looks immaculate, no damage to the capacitors or anything in there. I've checked some of the wires through the firewall with the DVOM to pins like 8 and 22. I was able to get 1.2 Ohm to ground on the yellow wire at the PCM. The only other odd things are across the fuel pump fuse I only get 11.8 V and with the negative cable disconnected, I have 1.8 V between the positive terminal and the negative cable/chassis of the car. That's gotta be the PCM or radio right?
Also, the red/light green wire to the ignition coil is worn bare at the connector. What's the appropriate fix for that? It doesn't look like anything else is worn there for it to short on. I might just cover it in RTV and electrical tape but I understand it could be corroded further down now. Exposed wire looks shiny, slightly frayed.
