1994 explorer anti-theft no power

[FullMoonCello]

I'm pretty sure I am having a problem because of a malfunctioning anti-theft system (I don't believe it is aftermarket). I seem to have a slightly different problem than other threads that I've seen on this sight.

A few days ago, I unlocked the driver side door with the key, opened the door and the alarm went off. Turning the key in the ignition made the dash lights come on, although I can't remember specifically which ones, but did not disarm the anti-theft. I didn't have the FOB at the time, and I just wanted it to stop, so I opened the hood. The alarm stopped, but now the car is completely locked down.

By locked down, I mean that there is no power to anything; no dome light, dash lights and no noise. The key will turn in the ignition, but does nothing. I waited until I had the FOB to ask anyone, but it does nothing, the door switches do nothing. The battery is not dead and disconnecting it doesn't help.

Most of the reset procedures seem to require some sort of power such as using door switches. I've scowered the internet, and found one person with the same problem, unfortunately that dope went to yahoo answers. I'm going to screw around with it some more tomorrow morning and call the dealership during my lunch break, but if any of you have any suggestions to offer before I get my grandmother to drive me to work(lol), I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[larrydd999]

That sounds to me like a different problem, unless it's an aftermarket alarm and someone did something really crazy with the wiring. I'd look at the battery connections to the fused distribution blocks. You should still have ignition circuits, head and dash lights, and dome lights. Having an alarm enable while driving and causing the vehicle to lose all power would be a dangerous condition.
I've unplugged the OEM alarm system. Water got in through the window gasket and caused it to alarm while I was driving so I decided to pull the plug. The door locks still work with the key fob and everything else is fine. I did fix the leak, but don't care that much about the alarm.

 

[FR-425]

You have triggered the anti-theft system. I have the same issue on mine. Which is that the switch on the key tumbler has fallen off or is worn out.

When you opened the door the anti-theft detected that the door was opened without the use of a key. (this = a break in)

If this happens and you have the FOB all you need to do is use the FOB to unlock the door and all is well.

If you do not have the FOB and you do as you did and opened the hood, this further confirms that someone is attempting to steel the truck. And boom full lockdown.

So how to reset?

1. Get in the drivers seat. If the truck is locked do not use the drivers door. (it has the defective key switch) So use the key on the passenger side and climb in.

2. Put the seat belt on.

3. Use the PDL to lock the doors.

4. Use the PDL to unlock the doors.

5. open the drivers door.

6. Unbuckle seat belt and get out.

7. Get back in and repeat steps 2,3,4

8 Now put the key in the ignition and turn it on. (do not attempt to start.)

9. Turn the key on and off 11 times in one second intervals.

10. Close the drivers door and use the PDL again the lock the doors.

11. Start the engine. Done.

The point of this contrived exercise is to "establish" human presence and that you have access and the ignition key in your possession.

Immediately go buy a replacement FOB. It's a life saver!

 

[FullMoonCello]

You have triggered the anti-theft system. I have the same issue on mine. Which is that the switch on the key tumbler has fallen off or is worn out.

When you opened the door the anti-theft detected that the door was opened without the use of a key. (this = a break in)

If this happens and you have the FOB all you need to do is use the FOB to unlock the door and all is well.

If you do not have the FOB and you do as you did and opened the hood, this further confirms that someone is attempting to steel the truck. And boom full lockdown.

So how to reset?

1. Get in the drivers seat. If the truck is locked do not use the drivers door. (it has the defective key switch) So use the key on the passenger side and climb in.

2. Put the seat belt on.

3. Use the PDL to lock the doors.

4. Use the PDL to unlock the doors.

5. open the drivers door.

6. Unbuckle seat belt and get out.

7. Get back in and repeat steps 2,3,4

8 Now put the key in the ignition and turn it on. (do not attempt to start.)

9. Turn the key on and off 11 times in one second intervals.

10. Close the drivers door and use the PDL again the lock the doors.

11. Start the engine. Done.

The point of this contrived exercise is to "establish" human presence and that you have access and the ignition key in your possession.

Immediately go buy a replacement FOB. It's a life saver!

Thanks for the reply. I tried what you suggested because I had yet to try anything with the seatbelt on. Unfortunately, the power door lock, which is what I assume PDL means, doesn't work along with everything else that requires electricity.

 

[FR-425]

You should still have Power to the door locks.

Your issue is more basic, and probably not related to the anti-theft at all.

One of those fun ones where your initial thought is just running you down a rabbit hole.

Start with the basics and bust out the multi meter and trace down where you are losing power.

Step one use a good battery. I don't believe anyone who says " the battery checks out fine" Bullshit I say! Take it and have it tested, before you continue. Batteries can show 12.7 volts and still be shist under load.

 

[FullMoonCello]

I agree that the problem goes deeper than the anti-theft, but the timing seems too conspicuous for it not to be involved. I tried jumping it when it first happened and got nowhere. Does that dispel the possibility off battery problems?

 

[FR-425]

nope

 

[Centaurious]

I worked on a car one time and removed the battery. When I reinstalled it the car had no power. I did not have to use any force to remove the clamps or reinstall them but it must have been enough to break one of the posts internally. I have seen too many modern batteries that test great for voltage but won't pass enough amps to light a test light.

What you thought was an alarm problem was more than likely the battery dying.