1996 Explorer Sport 4WD Upgrades

[TexasBear]

The Explorer axles are all 31 spline, the early Rangers had 28 splines like most cars did. For the R&P the axle spline doesn't matter, any 8.8 normal rotation gears fit all 8.8 rears. I think there were some rare front diff/reverse rotation gears, skip those if they exist.

The Ford rear gears are very stout, if the rear was taken care of, do not change them. Look at the gears and if they don't show any notable wear or very sharp edges, keep them.

You can buy OEM Ford 8.8 gears for about $140 shipped, check with our forum member vendor, LeviTown Ford. The diff/kit with bearings etc, those are actually more for the fronts($150ish), and a good $100 for the rear kits. Do not buy non Ford gears if you can get the OEM, they are more precisely made, match the old ones very well.

Excellent info, thank you very much!

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I also feel rather strongly that I would be better off altering the originals due to the lack of overall wear. I wouldn’t really want to swap out for some 200k+ set.
If I gear, add locker and rear discs, it seems like an adequate upgrade, but maybe there’s something I’m missing. I don’t want to assume anything. Do it right, do it once

thatbis quite valid given your low mileage! sometimes i forget low mile examples still exist, since i always see 150+ k near me. and in my case im at 323 you would be right howveer

 

[TexasBear]

thatbis quite valid given your low mileage! sometimes i forget low mile examples still exist, since i always see 150+ k near me. and in my case im at 323 you would be right howveer

What do you guys think of this one? Dont know if its a good option?

 

[410Fortune]

rear axle is 31 spline 8.8
Your front diff is a dana 35 SLA IFS, dana 35 regular rotation

(The reverse rotation front gears are for the older dana 35 TTB trucks 91-94 explorer, 90-97 ranger w 4.0)

with a 5 speed 4.10 or 4.56 would work well for 33's depending on how much highway you do I would consider 4.56 since you can setup your own gears. Precision, Yukon, Ford, Nitto, are good ring and pinions I would run, stay away from Motiv or cheapos like that

 

[96eb96]

Get a new upper Idler pulley. Years back it was a big failure point. Likely you have the factory one. When they go the belt does not turn the accessories.

 

[blakshukvw]

$1k??? WOW. I paid 4x that for my 96 5.0 awd with 60k last year. It’s like a brand new car too. Crazy. Good luck with yours.

 

[TexasBear]

rear axle is 31 spline 8.8
Your front diff is a dana 35 SLA IFS, dana 35 regular rotation

(The reverse rotation front gears are for the older dana 35 TTB trucks 91-94 explorer, 90-97 ranger w 4.0)

with a 5 speed 4.10 or 4.56 would work well for 33's depending on how much highway you do I would consider 4.56 since you can setup your own gears. Precision, Yukon, Ford, Nitto, are good ring and pinions I would run, stay away from Motiv or cheapos like that

Any data available as to the rpm change for 456 at Highway speed? Currently I believe it sits at 2500rpm at 70mph

 

[96eb96]

Any data available as to the rpm change for 456 at Highway speed? Currently I believe it sits at 2500rpm at 70mph

StackPath. Tire size is very important too. I believe 4.10s were only with the 16" tires.

 

[TexasBear]

StackPath. Tire size is very important too. I believe 4.10s were only with the 16" tires.

Im talking about with the 33’s, currently it has factory P235-15’s.
I am wondering how it would compare with 33’s and gear change to either 410 or 456

 

[96eb96]

Im talking about with the 33’s, currently it has factory P235-15’s.
I am wondering how it would compare with 33’s and gear change to either 410 or 456

There is a link I posted that can compute that. It says "Stackpath" for some reason.

 

[DintDobbs]

@TexasBear SWEET find! I'm gonna jump on this boat before reading others' posts or checking your profile, so take this for what it's worth.

1. Lift. If you absolutely must have a body lift, I and several others here wouldn't recommend more than 2". That plus a 4" Superlift (K357, specify for 98-2011 4x4 Rangers) would give you a total of 6", and if you do the Superlift + re-indexed torsion bar keys (vastly superior to the "torsion twist" method, I don't care how free it is to crank the bars, re-indexed keys give you full adjustment/"torsion twist" range WITH A HIGHER BASE HEIGHT. Discussion over.) Any higher than 2" suspension lift on the front, and you'll want a better front drive shaft. For the rear, the stock drive shaft is fine for 4" of lift, but any higher, and you'll want to look at longer ones; the slip yokes on these short 2-door drive shafts can overextend and pull the drive shaft apart, or worse, not pull apart and damage the transmission housing. (Can't speak for manuals, but on the '98-99 5R55E's at least, the rear drive shaft's slip yoke is at the transmission.) I like my spring-under-axle Old Man Emu 1.5" lifted spring packs with overload spring removed (net +2"), plus 2" shackles, but would recommend going higher than that if you like wide wheels.

No matter what, understand that ANY body lift that uses brackets to move the bumpers, renders your bumpers useless as a tow/recovery point, and compromises the structure during collisions. I've seen some the results of some gnarly collisions where the bumpers did their job correctly, and still ended up with stuff jammed through the radiator and cooling fan, into the harmonic balancer. Unless you're proud of risking the death of your motor in the event of a collision, don't put your bumper on brackets. (I supremely despise body lifts, for every reason. My mind cannot be changed.) Any way...

These Superlifts are about $500 cheaper now than they were when I got mine. Extended travel gas shocks come with the kit, but when they wear out, most users recommend switching to Fox shock absorbers.

Superlift: https://superlift.com/product-detail/K358

That price discount is cool for you, 'cause you're also going to want a drive shaft like this one. They're worth the price, just don't forget that it's greaseable and thus it now requires maintenance.

Rough Country front drive shaft: CV Drive Shaft | Front | 5 Inch Lift | Ford/Mazda B3000 (98-08)/Ranger (98-11)

RTZ re-indexed T-bar keys/longer shackles: Amazon product ASIN B01L629B0K
Be warned, I had to fight with CarID over these springs, would recommend sourcing from 4WheelParts or some other such, if possible.

Old Man Emu lifted spring packs: ARB® - 1.5" OME™ Rear Lifted Leaf Spring

And you'll need to source new front and rear bushings for these leaf spring packs as well. Trust me, parts counter jockeys will have no earthly clue on God's green earth that these things even exist. The part numbers I have are Dayton RB131 and RB237, I forget which is which but you'll need two of each.

And these would be a nice touch, if you're getting the front end done any time soon.

TrakMotive long-travel CV's (I don't have these yet): More Information for TRAKMOTIVE FD8021XTT

2. Wheels. 2-inch offset, which way, and how wide? 7", 8", 9", 10"? Offset means nothing without width. The factory wheels are 7" wide, 3.75" backspaced, if I recall correctly, which means +0.25" offset. A -2" offset on a 7" wide wheel would put your wheel's INNER lip 0.25" farther out than the wheels on The Vulture (check my profile header, orange 2-door). A +2" offset on anything will rub, period. I'm running a 5" lift with heavy trimming, and 33x12.50's on 10" wides (3.75" backspacing + 1.5" spacers, net 2.25" backspacing) rub on flex at full turn. If you go with 8-wides and 33x10.50's, you probably won't need to trim as much, if any. But be prepared to slice into that precious, beautiful sheet metal, if you want it wide. My rear tires also like to bash the fenders on flex, running a total lift of 4" on the rear with no trimming, same wheel configuration as the front. You'll want to make sure you choose a wheel/tire setup that won't stress your suspension, steering, and drivetrain too much.

The sky is the limit with wheels, but this is my setup. Regardless of which wheels you choose, be sure you specify the width and the backspacing that you want. Your bolt pattern is 5x4.5.

Pro Comp 51 Series (steelies): Amazon product ASIN B00DJ64ZOO
3. Engine. I assume a '96 with 60k miles on it probably has the original OHV, which is a good and reliable motor, but not great for going fast. You can read up all about the OHV and its ups and downs on this forum, generally it's the preferred V6 by most members. I personally favor (and have experience exclusively with) the SOHC, which puts out significantly more torque than the OHV. I don't know the power band or shifting points on the OHV, but you should consider these things when selecting your gears - particularly since you have the manual (envy envy).

4. Gears. If you're going to use it on the road, don't go shorter than 4.88's. I regret nothing going to 5.13's, mine became a total monster off-road, but isn't suitable for speeds above about 60 mph due to high RPM's, unduly stressing the engine components and using excessive amounts of fuel. 4.88 is right around that sweet spot, where you still have about the same torque control as with stock 30" tires on 4.10's. IF yours has the factory 4.10's (axle code D2 on the door sticker), anything taller than 4.88's wouldn't make enough difference to be worth the price. I would recommend Yukon/USA Standard Gear, that's what I went with for my 5.13's (nobody else made 'em) and haven't had any issues running trails, highways, rock crawling, mud running, the works. No matter which gears you go with, MAKE SURE you change the diff fluid (gear oil) after completing the break-in procedure! The diff is gonna be expensive to mess up, so do it once, and do it right!

Note: The 8.8 in these Explorers is the 31-spline. Don't forget (I know you're not a dummy, but seriously, don't forget) that you have to do both diff's at the same time. That means whatever gear ratio you get for the Ford 8.8 rear, you have to find the same one for the Dana 35 up front (a '96 should use standard rotation gears, not reverse rotation).

Extra miscellaneous thing I'd recommend, shoot some WD-40 or a better lubricant into all the door/gate hinges and latches... Regardless of usage, at this age, it's a good thing to do.

 

[TexasBear]

@TexasBear SWEET find! I'm gonna jump on this boat before reading others' posts or checking your profile, so take this for what it's worth.

1. Lift. If you absolutely must have a body lift, I and several others here wouldn't recommend more than 2". That plus a 4" Superlift (K357, specify for 98-2011 4x4 Rangers) would give you a total of 6", and if you do the Superlift + re-indexed torsion bar keys (vastly superior to the "torsion twist" method, I don't care how free it is to crank the bars, re-indexed keys give you full adjustment/"torsion twist" range WITH A HIGHER BASE HEIGHT. Discussion over.) Any higher than 2" suspension lift on the front, and you'll want a better front drive shaft. For the rear, the stock drive shaft is fine for 4" of lift, but any higher, and you'll want to look at longer ones; the slip yokes on these short 2-door drive shafts can overextend and pull the drive shaft apart, or worse, not pull apart and damage the transmission housing. (Can't speak for manuals, but on the '98-99 5R55E's at least, the rear drive shaft's slip yoke is at the transmission.) I like my spring-under-axle Old Man Emu 1.5" lifted spring packs with overload spring removed (net +2"), plus 2" shackles, but would recommend going higher than that if you like wide wheels.

No matter what, understand that ANY body lift that uses brackets to move the bumpers, renders your bumpers useless as a tow/recovery point, and compromises the structure during collisions. I've seen some the results of some gnarly collisions where the bumpers did their job correctly, and still ended up with stuff jammed through the radiator and cooling fan, into the harmonic balancer. Unless you're proud of risking the death of your motor in the event of a collision, don't put your bumper on brackets. (I supremely despise body lifts, for every reason. My mind cannot be changed.) Any way...

These Superlifts are about $500 cheaper now than they were when I got mine. Extended travel gas shocks come with the kit, but when they wear out, most users recommend switching to Fox shock absorbers.

Superlift: https://superlift.com/product-detail/K358

That price discount is cool for you, 'cause you're also going to want a drive shaft like this one. They're worth the price, just don't forget that it's greaseable and thus it now requires maintenance.

Rough Country front drive shaft: CV Drive Shaft | Front | 5 Inch Lift | Ford/Mazda B3000 (98-08)/Ranger (98-11)

RTZ re-indexed T-bar keys/longer shackles: Amazon product ASIN B01L629B0K
Be warned, I had to fight with CarID over these springs, would recommend sourcing from 4WheelParts or some other such, if possible.

Old Man Emu lifted spring packs: ARB® - 1.5" OME™ Rear Lifted Leaf Spring

And you'll need to source new front and rear bushings for these leaf spring packs as well. Trust me, parts counter jockeys will have no earthly clue on God's green earth that these things even exist. The part numbers I have are Dayton RB131 and RB237, I forget which is which but you'll need two of each.

And these would be a nice touch, if you're getting the front end done any time soon.

TrakMotive long-travel CV's (I don't have these yet): More Information for TRAKMOTIVE FD8021XTT

2. Wheels. 2-inch offset, which way, and how wide? 7", 8", 9", 10"? Offset means nothing without width. The factory wheels are 7" wide, 3.75" backspaced, if I recall correctly, which means +0.25" offset. A -2" offset on a 7" wide wheel would put your wheel's INNER lip 0.25" farther out than the wheels on The Vulture (check my profile header, orange 2-door). A +2" offset on anything will rub, period. I'm running a 5" lift with heavy trimming, and 33x12.50's on 10" wides (3.75" backspacing + 1.5" spacers, net 2.25" backspacing) rub on flex at full turn. If you go with 8-wides and 33x10.50's, you probably won't need to trim as much, if any. But be prepared to slice into that precious, beautiful sheet metal, if you want it wide. My rear tires also like to bash the fenders on flex, running a total lift of 4" on the rear with no trimming, same wheel configuration as the front. You'll want to make sure you choose a wheel/tire setup that won't stress your suspension, steering, and drivetrain too much.

The sky is the limit with wheels, but this is my setup. Regardless of which wheels you choose, be sure you specify the width and the backspacing that you want. Your bolt pattern is 5x4.5.

Pro Comp 51 Series (steelies): Amazon product ASIN B00DJ64ZOO
3. Engine. I assume a '96 with 60k miles on it probably has the original OHV, which is a good and reliable motor, but not great for going fast. You can read up all about the OHV and its ups and downs on this forum, generally it's the preferred V6 by most members. I personally favor (and have experience exclusively with) the SOHC, which puts out significantly more torque than the OHV. I don't know the power band or shifting points on the OHV, but you should consider these things when selecting your gears - particularly since you have the manual (envy envy).

4. Gears. If you're going to use it on the road, don't go shorter than 4.88's. I regret nothing going to 5.13's, mine became a total monster off-road, but isn't suitable for speeds above about 60 mph due to high RPM's, unduly stressing the engine components and using excessive amounts of fuel. 4.88 is right around that sweet spot, where you still have about the same torque control as with stock 30" tires on 4.10's. IF yours has the factory 4.10's (axle code D2 on the door sticker), anything taller than 4.88's wouldn't make enough difference to be worth the price. I would recommend Yukon/USA Standard Gear, that's what I went with for my 5.13's (nobody else made 'em) and haven't had any issues running trails, highways, rock crawling, mud running, the works. No matter which gears you go with, MAKE SURE you change the diff fluid (gear oil) after completing the break-in procedure! The diff is gonna be expensive to mess up, so do it once, and do it right!

Note: The 8.8 in these Explorers is the 31-spline. Don't forget (I know you're not a dummy, but seriously, don't forget) that you have to do both diff's at the same time. That means whatever gear ratio you get for the Ford 8.8 rear, you have to find the same one for the Dana 35 up front (a '96 should use standard rotation gears, not reverse rotation).

Extra miscellaneous thing I'd recommend, shoot some WD-40 or a better lubricant into all the door/gate hinges and latches... Regardless of usage, at this age, it's a good thing to do.

Firstly, thank you for taking the time to write so much information, and for including specific part numbers for your recommendations, VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!
Secondly, I really appreciate your sharing such in depth knowledge and experience. That’s something I appreciated straight away here, you guys actually KNOW what your talking about!

 

[jr230]

Glad to find this forum! I hav zero experience with Explorers, but have considerable experience with other other vehicles.
I purchased this 1996 Explorer Sport, V6, 4WD from an estate. It’s had zero mods an has the 2wd-4hi/4lo with 61k miles on it.
I have a lot of things that I want to do with it, but my initial priorities are moderate lift and larger tires. With the 2-3” plus a 3” body lift (kit for Ranger) I believe that 33” tires will fit well with 2in offsets. I know I need to change gears, but which would be best to maintain drive ability for every day use? Do you have any advice on where to purchase (pert numbers or links would be awesome!) and any other mods available that you can recommend would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for reading, and in advance for responding

View attachment 433794

low mileage but consider its still a 26 yr old truck. it will have many mor miles ahead. but if you jack it up change ratios you spending a ton of cash remember the rear is a single composite leaf spring so lift might be difficult its been about 20 years ford used that setup
but also almost all rubber parts need checking replacing and front suspension at least 2wd had no greased fittings
now bad news you probably will have to replace the slave cyl/throw-out bearing ford used good trans but the stupid engineer put the slave and throw out as 1 unit requiring trans to be dropped . it starts occasionally the petal drops to floor but trans is in gear when it gets hot to be honist on a 25 yr old i would not go far off road without changing it my opinion if its that clean i would not go overboard with mods beef up shocks larger tires that still fit. and don't forget the roll over problem it had another caution for lifting unless it a strict off road. most of the problem was tires and inexperienced drivers but they are a little top heavy . and people used to cars would panic and cut wheel to hard to get off the highway . just my 2 cents its your truck, money and life owned 99.03, and now 04 unfortunately 2wd
99 new, 03 250 bucks 04 2k best i could do financly at the time but 99 was favorite 02 was a junker temp bought wound up running it a yr stripped parts for 04 which had 4 yrs and counting. good luck they were great trucks until the frount wheel mechanics delight

 

[TexasBear]

low mileage but consider its still a 26 yr old truck. it will have many mor miles ahead. but if you jack it up change ratios you spending a ton of cash remember the rear is a single composite leaf spring so lift might be difficult its been about 20 years ford used that setup
but also almost all rubber parts need checking replacing and front suspension at least 2wd had no greased fittings
now bad news you probably will have to replace the slave cyl/throw-out bearing ford used good trans but the stupid engineer put the slave and throw out as 1 unit requiring trans to be dropped . it starts occasionally the petal drops to floor but trans is in gear when it gets hot to be honist on a 25 yr old i would not go far off road without changing it my opinion if its that clean i would not go overboard with mods beef up shocks larger tires that still fit. and don't forget the roll over problem it had another caution for lifting unless it a strict off road. most of the problem was tires and inexperienced drivers but they are a little top heavy . and people used to cars would panic and cut wheel to hard to get off the highway . just my 2 cents its your truck, money and life owned 99.03, and now 04 unfortunately 2wd
99 new, 03 250 bucks 04 2k best i could do financly at the time but 99 was favorite 02 was a junker temp bought wound up running it a yr stripped parts for 04 which had 4 yrs and counting. good luck they were great trucks until the frount wheel mechanics delight

All very valid points, most of which I have been debating. The clutch has felt weak from the moment I started it. I already started shopping to replace all related components. The rubber is a given regardless of mileage.
Your input really splits my thinking. I had been considering just going with some 31” all-terrains. Can’t decide how far I should take it, as I will never be getting into crazy off-road like long ago. I do want it usable though, as it sits, theres not much ground clearance and the highway tires spin in the rain, can’t imagine taking off-road

Thanks!

 

[CDW6212R]

Im talking about with the 33’s, currently it has factory P235-15’s.
I am wondering how it would compare with 33’s and gear change to either 410 or 456

Any data available as to the rpm change for 456 at Highway speed? Currently I believe it sits at 2500rpm at 70mph

That's actually very easy math you can do. Write down your current tire diameter, that 2500rpm at 70mph, and your projected new tire diameter, plus what you want the rpm's to be after the gear changes.

Divide the new tire size by the old one, and multiply that by the old gear ratios. That will be the needed R&P gears to achieve the exact same rpm's as before. You can alter the tire sizes in the math, as well as the wanted rpm at different speeds, and find the gear ratio that will get it very close to what you want. Then you select the R&R ratio that is nearest to the result.

33"/29" times a 3.55 gear would need about 4.06:1 to match the current rpm's etc. If you wanted similar rpm gearing as a 4.10 truck, then multiply the 4/10/3.55 times the 4.06 figure, and it ends up about 4.67:1 ratio. So a 4.56:1 gear set would put it about the same as a 4.10 stock truck with 29" tires. Those pushed a lot of rpm on the highway, so consider whether the goal is more off road, or on road driving.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

imo my X on 31s with OME tt and shackle is plenty capable for most trails, not all, but most. my goal is to get to 33 or so sometime, but for now extra $ is in a lunchbox locker imo

31+TT shackle OME (my setup which i can speak to) and the addition of good LS or lunchbox locker

vs

33 with stock open and big lift

id choose the 31s mainly due to the extra locking power imo can go much further

 

[DintDobbs]

@TexasBear Ha, I'm not really that knowledgeable... just been down a few different roads, and made mistakes, trying to cheap out on stuff before doing it right. You're the person I wrote down all these parts for over the years; I knew I'd need that some day.

Basically your budget is your only limitation. @Fix4Dirt and I have talked plenty about his setup, with the RTZ keys/shackles and better leaf springs (like the packs from a 4-door), going to 31's will make a big difference on its own. Bigger than 31's, and that necessitates the big lifts and regears and drive shafts and all such. These trucks are quite capable from the factory, but more so with the 4.10 limited slips.

Some thing I didn't mention in my earlier post was that if you go to 33's, you'll want to order up some code 1 (stiffer) or code B (softer, the ones I'm using) torsion bars to handle the fat rubbers. Trust me, this matters. I had code D bars (softer than B) from the factory, and they didn't handle the 33's well, on my application (usually 5-40 MPH, sand, gravel, mud).

MPG-wise, my 4-door gets somewhere in the scope of 22-24 combined with the SOHC and 5R55E on 4.10's. OHV and manual will make a difference, as well as driving habits; but 20+ MPG in a 20+ year old SUV with gears like that, I'd recommend 4.10's for sure, if you're sticking with 31's. If it's not your daily, the enormous torque boost is 100% worth spending the extra few bucks for gas every time you fill up. Consider it a subscription fee for epic power.

Just know what you're trying to get, and base the build on your expected usage. I overbuilt The Vulture to the point where it's hardly the same truck that it started as, and very inconvenient to use for anything other than hardcore wheeling. Kind of a shame... which is why I bought another one, to keep mild.

 

[410Fortune]

CLUTCH
Anytime I replace a clutch in a 4.0 OHV
I use the clutch for a SOHC 4.0 truck
The driven disc is much larger, the pressure plate is better built, and the clutch has way better grip and a way better pedal feel.
To put a sohc clutch behind your ohv engine your Flywheel needs to be slighly modified, basically you pull out the locating pins, lay the new pressure plate on and you will see you need to drill 6 new holes and tap them.......now you can run a SOHC clutch in a OHV truck
I order a clutch (LUK repset) for a 03 Ranger SOHC 4x4
Have a local machine shop do the work to the flywheel
One of the best upgrades you can do to an older 5 speed OHV truck

WE ONLY USE LUK clutches and LUK hydraulics on this forum.........everything else (And I mean everything) is sup par and can leaver you dropping the transmission several times

(fyi the OHV from 98-00 had the 8 bolt flywheel same as SOHC, so the 98-00 OHV can simply use a SOHC flywheel too)

 

[sandsprayer]

From what I have read, I’ll have to use a body lift for a Ranger, although bumper brackets won’t fit. I’m not really worried if that’s the case, I’ll be changing bumpers anyway.
Does this kit fit otherwise?

Actually, my dad new the executor of the estate, a friend of his for 35+ years who doesn’t live in Texas. He was the reason I got it. He called me and asked me if I wanted a’96 Explorer, I said “nope”. He said “well now wait a minute, let me finish. It’s 4-wheel drive and has 60k miles. I started it and there’s not the slightest tick coming from it. It sounds like a new truck, seriously!”
I said, “ok, I’ll bite, how much?” He said, “well that’s just it, nobody has expressed any interest in it.”
Turns out there were a lot of guns and tools/equipment in the estate, and that attracted a lot of attention, but not one person interested in the ole’96.
He said make them an offer, which I did, $1,000. Next day he said “you need to go pick up your truck” LOL, I had no idea what a find it would turn out to be.
My dad passed away shortly after I got it. I like to think of it as dad’s last gift.
Thanks for the welcome, I will be providing updates once work begins. My time is limited, but I am really wanting to get going on it. Just want to make sure I get input from all of you to avoid mistakes or unnecessary changes.

View attachment 433796

Welcome!
Sorry about your Father, that is a tough thing.
Keep us in the loop, you will find anything you need @ this site

 

[valenciaismail]

Excellent info, thank you very much!

Nox Vidmate VLC​