1998 Explorer V8 Project. 33" Mudder KM2's (pictures) | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1998 Explorer V8 Project. 33" Mudder KM2's (pictures)

Ya thats good to know. I am relieved my brake system is finally good to go, but I notice even going through a drive thru line or something that my calipers will hit the LCA bump stop, so I will have to figure something out. Maybe if I had robert build some uppers AND lowers he could built them in a way where they wouldn't hit, I just dont know though (im still learning all this suspension stuff), or maybe I will just drill out a bolt hole like you mentioned and use that has a stop, put a rubber grommet on the end or something. That reminds me that my ABS/Speed sensor threading is stripped, I need to get that fixed too...so many small things.

As for the alignment, I have a local guy (DJ auto doctor in oside) who will fix my toe, camber everything tomorrow (mentioned in your PM) ... My alignment and everything was good with just the spindle lift, it was only after the TT did everything get out of whack...but there is still rubbing unless I do the TT. Maybe those new uppers will help out with the ride quality (not that its a major concern)

Edit: I was just crawled up under there, it looks like I would have to have the steering stop facing upwards in order to contact the base of the spindle, if I ran a bolt straight out from the bump stop it would still just hit the caliper. Maybe the simplest thing to do would be to just grind that bump stop off altogether

Edit #2: If anyone could please recommend me the best way to get a performance tune, and speedometer calibration for the 33" tires and upcoming 4.30 gears, that would be appreciated.

Ya, with my arms my steering locks out before I hit the caliper so it hasnt happened to me in a few years. It will still happen with just an upper and that upper wont improve your ride quality. it will just add about an inch of travel if the shock permits it to. As far as your gears...the 4.30s will bring your speedo back to accurate within like 2 percent.

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Thanks Dan. In regards to the caliper-LCA hitting issue, I think I may just grind off the steering bump stop, and that will just it be for now. I did try to get my alignment squared away this morning, but it looks like both my lower control ball joint and upper joint (where they connect to spindle) are shot, in fact there is about a 3/4" of play, so we were unable to get it aligned. So my immediate issue is to get those joints replaced.

- Can anybody recommend some good joint replacements for the upper and lower on both sides, preferably something I can order online or somethin quick. Guy at the shop recommened moog

- Also, are there upper arms I can purchase somewhere that would work with my vehicle, or is it something that I will need to get fabbed? I would definitely like to do it right the first time with heim, etc. so if custom is the way to go then I will move forward with that. actually a big reason why I want the upper arms isnt just for the extra inch or so of travel but so I can get the tires aligned properly

my immediate concerns are just to get my suspension tightened up and straight.

I found these lower ball joints (moog) online, they seem good to go:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-K8695T/?rtype=10 but I still need upper ball joints

thanks for all the help dan and others, im still learning as I go here. I would like to take that front end kit off your hands but just a bit out of reach with cash right now.

Couple of ?'s for you on some comments you made in earlier posts.

You mentioned that your brakes were burning up, are they still? And to your ? about break heat and bigger tires, yes it can cause premature break wear do to increased rolling resistance. You got to remember that your brakes at stock have little to none when it comes to rolling resistance, but at larger tire diameters, that resistance increases dramatically. You may want to think about improving your break pad material or and improvement on rotors and pads.

Second you made a comment about wifey not able to get in without the help of step plates. I would go to a nerf bar on each side, black bars look good with black rims, I know because that is what I have.

Also when it comes to Moog Front suspension joints, bushings for Ford, you can not go wrong. I would suggest Moog any day.

Also what gear swap are you going to use, and are you going to use a locker in frt and rr? I would also consider upgrading your u-joints too with the added load you are applying.

Your EB is looking nice and if anything I would trim the edges of the flares on the fenders to give them less stand out since the steps are gone. Just my two cents.

Thanks man. Ya Im not concerned about the brakes, I think they were just burning because they were so new, I havent smelled them burning in the last few days. And yes, moog joints for sure for the lowers, and I think I am getting some uppers made and they will have the moog joints as well (and they include bushings)

You guys know which alignment cams I should order? I think Im going to order the lower ball joints and alignment cams together.

I found this moog joint, this the right size?

Frt Susp; Lower; Problem Solver; oversized ball joint; fits control arm with 1.749 in. to 1.753 in. I.D. MOOG Part # K8695T006

I also found:

Frt Susp; Lower; Problem Solver. MOOG Part # K8695T

Wondering which one is the right ball joint for my truck, going to order 2 (they are both for lower arm)

If you are going to have new UCA's made do not stick with balljoints. Go with a uniball or heim joint and you will need to replace the bearings every 5 years maybe with just street driving. If you have an UCA made and run 3/4 heims on the frame pivots you will never need alignment cams again. You have an un-plated washer welded to the UCA mount ears so the bolt can never slide and all of your adjustment is through the threading in and out of the heims.

Hey dan, thanks for the heads up. I believe the upper will be a uniball, BTF-fab. still haven't hit up robert though, but BTF said they could have the uppers ready next week. Im going to get these uppers, (no heim though) then get the moog joint for the lower arm/spindle. not sure if I will still need the alignment cams at that point or not, will cross that bridge when I get there I guess. I got to take this one step at a time, Ive learned. Any more than that and its overwhelming how much cash Im gonna fork out lol. thats part of the fun though


No worries. You you dont even wanna know what I have spent the last month just collecting parts for my new front end. Let alone the 4 link and the motor work. It's disgusting, haha. And BTW, BTF does go stuff. You will still need alignment cams for Brandons uppers if they're not on heims.

haha, but you are going to have one of the baddest ex's out there, especially if you go with that 351 you were talking about...I cant even fathom what a beast your truck will be. You know what kind of time frame you are looking at to get your front end installed?

Also I have one more question for anybody that wants to answer (thanks for your patience).

Right now my Ex has the 3.73's....I am trying to decide if I would be better off installing the 4:30's or going with just the TorqueMonster headers and leaving the gears alone. I know 33"s with an explorer v8 isn't ideal for gas mileage (and that sugarcoating it lol) but I would like to maximize MPG as much as I can.

Of course if I don't go with the gears, then I would need to get the speedo recalibrated. If thats the case then any recommendations on a speedometer calibration for the bigger tires? My 'miles to empty' LED readout in the center console is all over the place, I am assuming that would be fixed if the speedo was recalibrated, not sure though?


It will be nice when it's dont. I can't believe what it is capable of now. If I showed you some incab video I have from my GoPro you'd **** your pants, haha. The front suspension should be done in a few weeks. I am gutting the whole front core support and running a full tube front end to remount the fenders grill moving the batteries to the cargo area and room for the new radiator power steering cooler and tranny cooler. It will be a few weeks to get everything worked out and where to mount these monsterous shocks I have as well as the Chevy HD hydroboost brake set up I am going with. I think I am going to stick with my 331 stroker kit though. It should be enough in combination with the other parts I have to turn paddles in Glamis.

For your question. I would for sure gear the truck to 4.30 before going headers no question. If you put the rear end back to a close to stock ratio your milage will read true and the truck will be back in the proper power band.

Edit #2: If anyone could please recommend me the best way to get a performance tune, and speedometer calibration for the 33" tires and upcoming 4.30 gears, that would be appreciated.

First off, since you have stock 3.73's, the 4.10's (which can be found in some explorer 8.8 rear ends) will bring you back to the stock ratio with 33's :thumbsup:

But if you don't want to do that, figure out your percentage off, theres calculators around the web that'll help you with that. Then take that percentage to Ford and they'll give you the correct gear for the VSS, or one that will get you close enough.

Tuning is a no brainer, contact James Henson @ HensonPerformance.com, hands down THE BEST Explorer tuner.

I like your ride man!

Hey Dan, Brandon - thanks for all your patience in answering my questions. Dan, you got to post some vids on youtube man, your truck is too badass to not show the world lol.

Out of curiosity I wonder if when I get the gears if my Message Center MPG, Fuel Economy readings, etc will be accurate again. For example the message said 286 miles to empty on a full tank, I drove for a bit - the odometer registered 14 traveled miles, and by that point the message center said I was 205 miles to empty. Now I know both the odometer and message center are inaccurate right now because of the tires, but I didn't know if the gears would just correct the speedo, or if it would correct the digital readings as well - just wondering.

brandon, I actually spoke with James @ Henson Performance today, I think a tune is definitely in the works. Where the hell does it end? lol. I thought lifting this truck would satisfy but I think I am just getting started now lol. I think mr waters over here is suffering from the same sickness on a more advanced level haha, its a good problem to have though

on a side note, I wish there were some reputable fab guys in SoCal that would be interested in a professional website in exchange for work. if anyone out there is reading this and may be interested check out my portfolio at blackreefdesigns.com , most ar15/ak47 stuff. Just throwing it out there.

If you get the proper gear your speedo/odometer will be more more accurate and your miles to empty will be as well. One weird thing about these Explorers is how fast the truck can run very low on fuel the last 1/4 tank. Any down hill driving will read super low fuel all of a sudden cause the sending unit float is in the rear of the gas tank. My Explorer came with 3.55s factory so 4.30s corrected my speedo with 33's. I have 35s now with 5.13s but I have GPS speedo so my factory speedo/odo is incorrect. All you have to do to figure out how far you are off is take the diameter of the factory tire and find the circumference of the tire and compare it to the new tire size and you will have a ratio as to how far off your speedo is.

As far as my footage..I will put it up when I get it edited...I ordered to software to do that. My videos stream for like 20 minutes at a time so that is pointless to put on you tube.

What I would do is buy a handheld tuner, program the CPU to the current tire size, gear size. Tuners are getting cheaper, easy to use for the novice, and can be found just about anywhere.

Nice EB looks great with the black wheels and lift. Subscribing, some good info here!