Another 1998 Explorer Sport V8 Project. . .Completed! | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Another 1998 Explorer Sport V8 Project. . .Completed!

You may consider adding the v8 trac bars also if you have not already
V8 96-01 had some nice above axle trac bars from the factory, helps with axle wrap up and axle sway

So now a 1" sway bar, a 5th shock and trac bars, that rear axle should stay put pretty well!
I was able to add the override traction bars back in 2008 when I first swapped everything over; it was surprising that the 2-door frame actually had the blind stamping for the attachment points. It took a fair amount of grinding to clear them out, but when I did they fit perfectly. Also, the factory holes for both the 2-door and 4-door exhaust mounting brackets were stamped into the frame as well; that was unexpected. This car has always had a bit of an axle hop issue; or I guess I should say the few times I've really nailed the throttle. Even with the 3.27 gear, the 3.90 first gear ratio means you don't stay there long. Also on that transmission, it uses brass blocker rings instead of the good fiber material that the Tremecs and T-5's have, so it acts more like an old toploader in the way it takes a little longer to shift. The center-to-center distance between the main and countershaft on the M5R2 is even larger than a toploader also, so it is a pretty stout transmission, at least on paper ( I have to walk a fine line here; I don't want to upset the Thunderbird SuperCoupe folks)!
 



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Got a video idle clip by chance?
Looks amazing by the way
 






Got a video idle clip by chance?
Looks amazing by the way
I need to do that; I have in mind trying to do a 8-minute or so overview of most of the main parts, plus some idle and driving footage. My son is the video editor of the house, and I was hoping to use his talents to keep it interesting. With that said, I will try and post something soon!
 






Any future plans to add forced induction to the engine?
 






Any future plans to add forced induction to the engine?
That was on the decision matrix when I first started planning it out, but there were several things that led to the current configuration of nitrous/high compression (10.5:1):

1) Turbo(s) might be difficult to do for these cars due to the lack of underhood space, heat issues, and my desire to keep as much of the factory accessories as possible up and running. Maybe it has been done (and perhaps even on this forum by some of the members), but I don't know if it would be something you could comfortably take on a 500-mile road trip without melting something. When you start running a free-flowing set of headers or manifolds which horsepower of any kind requires, even the primary tube sizes start cutting things close. I have an F-350 Super-Duty with a V-10, and, while researching factory sound deadening items, it amazed me how much underhood heat shielding is in place for the Turbo Diesel option (and that is with a much larger engine bay with even more clearance than our V-6 inspired ones)!

2) Supercharging is definitely an option (and these cars have a surprising amount of room under the hood as far as engine height); however, I guess being a child of the seventies, nothing sounds better to me than high compression and a cam. From the time you start it up, this combination puts a big smile on my face, even at a red light while sitting still. I don't doubt that a properly set up stock block supercharged 347 might make more power than the 363 I've built (off the nitrous), but you would need to have your foot on the floor to get the full enjoyment out of it as compared to the sound that a high-compression motor makes any time it is running. . .but remember, that is just my opinion. That is not to say that you can't get by with a hotter-than-stock cam with supercharging, but the characteristics will be different, and what I wanted was something that reminded me of some of the cars from my youth.

I should say something here about the nitrous route; to do it properly, you really need a controller like the nitrous companies sell ( I'm using a Nitrous Express Maximizer). These allow you to dial in the phasing, rpm, and amount (you could make it something like the secondaries of a giant 4-barrel carb if you like, as far as power delivery). It also controls the bottle heater, and uses a pressure sensor to turn the heater off and on to maintain consistent pressure to the jet. The only issue about nitrous that I am seeing is that it takes about 30 minutes to heat the bottle - even using an insulating jacket (in all fairness, I am running a 15 lb bottle though). What this means is that it kind of kills the spontaneity as compared to having turbos or a supercharger. I guess since I'm a little more cooler-headed than I once was, this has not been an issue for me - but if road rage power-bursts are part of the requirements in the decision-making process, this might be something to consider!
 






I love that 363 combination as it is, enjoy it just like that. When I first got my 98 Mountaineer in 2003, the Cobra was the hot new car. My first thought was could the DOHC 4.6 fit the engine bay etc, with the blower. Then seeing how little space is around these engine bays, I saw the best idea being either boost on a 302 block, or a stroker with high compression. I didn't know how bad the exhaust manifold options were, and the rest isn't much better.

So the NA stroker is the best method for most people, unfortunately the prices have jumped. Back then you get a 347 built with really good heads for about $5-$6k, but now that is a lot more. Throw in the aftermarket block, and any path is really expensive. We do these things for personal reasons, not for feasible ones.

Keep at it, have a blast with that truck as much as possible.
 






I love that 363 combination as it is, enjoy it just like that. When I first got my 98 Mountaineer in 2003, the Cobra was the hot new car. My first thought was could the DOHC 4.6 fit the engine bay etc, with the blower. Then seeing how little space is around these engine bays, I saw the best idea being either boost on a 302 block, or a stroker with high compression. I didn't know how bad the exhaust manifold options were, and the rest isn't much better.

So the NA stroker is the best method for most people, unfortunately the prices have jumped. Back then you get a 347 built with really good heads for about $5-$6k, but now that is a lot more. Throw in the aftermarket block, and any path is really expensive. We do these things for personal reasons, not for feasible ones.

Keep at it, have a blast with that truck as much as possible.
Beautifully spoken, and thanks!
 






you can still put a supercharger on with that compression. i have 10.2.1 right now. but in the end, it is your truck, and you have built it the way you want and not what all of us suggest, right?
 






you can still put a supercharger on with that compression. i have 10.2.1 right now. but in the end, it is your truck, and you have built it the way you want and not what all of us suggest, right?
That is so true; I guess what i was (poorly) trying to convey is that usually a dedicated blower motor runs less compression and less cam overlap and/or duration. . .but even then there are historical exceptions, such as the Paxton-equipped Shelby GT 350s of the mid-sixties. Certainly nothing wrong with forced induction!
 






Great work, it looks so clean. How’s the paint?
 






Great work, it looks so clean. How’s the paint?
I would call the paint job a good "five footer". Not exactly as good as I was hoping (I guess we all shoot for perfection), as there are some runs here and there, but overall serviceable. What the painter did talk me into was putting just a slight amount of pearl into the factory "Light Blue Metallic" color; though I don't know how it could ever be properly matched in the case of a touchup, it really "pops" in twilight conditions. I will go ahead and post this so you guys can put it in the "Lessons Learned" register: the rocker panel trim is a real problem to remove without denting the rocker panel with the removal tool!

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That's great, I like the color and a small amount of pearl does help. The factory white pearl is one of my favorite original colors from the 90's.

Matching paint is important to plan for no doubt. I have an idea for my project, that matching the paint was a thought. I plan to take the OEM Toreador red, and leave out the pearl which is a large percentage(@$90 a bottle and almost three in a gallon) of it. I'll use that as a base color, and then use it to make a mid coat. In that I'll put a measured small amount of gold pearl, and another measured amount of ALSA blood red concentrate. I'll test paint some sections of an old hood, and choose the amount of additives I like best. Then in theory the paint could be duplicated. Using easily available ingredients helps a lot too, thus the OEM base color to start with.
 






glad your paint shop did it the right way by taking it all apart and not leaving trim and other stuff on it. paint lines on trim or edges drives me nuts!
 






glad your paint shop did it the right way by taking it all apart and not leaving trim and other stuff on it. paint lines on trim or edges drives me nuts!
I wish I could have gotten a Mach1-style hood on it; I even went as far as sourcing one for a Ranger, but in the end it was just too far off, and I couldn't find a fiberglass man that wanted to modify it. It might have been just as well though; I imagine the cowl induction might have made a big difference in engine noise (but oh, man, it would have probably been bearable with the coolness factor of those scoops)!

I have a similar one on my 2006 Super Duty, but the scoops on that one allow you to recess the block-off plates for a factory look. The Ranger hood makes you have to put the plates on the outside, and you see the edges. . . I've seen RC car bodies that looked more convincing! If you look close, you will see that the floor of the scoop ends at the exact point that the top of the scoop starts:

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I wish I could have gotten a Mach1-style hood on it; I even went as far as sourcing one for a Ranger, but in the end it was just too far off, and I couldn't find a fiberglass man that wanted to modify it. It might have been just as well though; I imagine the cowl induction might have made a big difference in engine noise (but oh, man, it would have probably been bearable with the coolness factor of those scoops)!

I have a similar one on my 2006 Super Duty, but the scoops on that one allow you to recess the block-off plates for a factory look. The Ranger hood makes you have to put the plates on the outside, and you see the edges. . . I've seen RC car bodies that looked more convincing! If you look close, you will see that the floor of the scoop ends at the exact point that the top of the scoop starts:

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Where did you get that hood from. Shame tey don't make more aftermarket parts for the Explorer...
 






Where did you get that hood from. Shame tey don't make more aftermarket parts for the Explorer...
It is a Cervinis #119 (93-97 Ford Ranger); looks like they are on sale on their website for $500. I tried cutting some of the underside out to clear the radiator support (you will also have to replace the passenger side hood hinge with another driver's side hinge); that will get the fit close on the sides and the back. . .but up front, the Explorer hoods extend further out and are rounded. I don't know if it might be better to just go ahead and pick up a 1971 mustang hood (metal) and try to graft that onto a stock metal hood? No easy way to do it, but all metal would probably be ideal I am thinking?
 






I also like that hood. The one I was wishing for came on the F150's and similar on a Ranger once, Cobra F1 is what I recall it named. I bought pieces of one to see about grafting to a stock hood.
 

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i bet that raises a few eye brows at a stop light! thats also a very smooth idle. member dono has tuned my truck and his and we both have a surge before the warm up cycle has passed. is it possible for a wot video or just not yet.
i also get a kick out of us older guys that have these. no punk kid would never expect whats under the hood lol
 






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