1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

[97Sandbox]

Front crank seal was replaced when I redid the timing gasket last summer. I do plan to replace the rear main, I just need to track down or make an appropriate seal installer tool.

It's so grimey around the block and pan, I don't think there's a good chance of me resealing the gasket without pulling the engine. I did get a good bit of tightening on most of the bolts before they hit spec though so hopefully that stops most if not all of the leaking.

If I do decide to replace the motor mounts, is that a job worth doing while the transmission is out? Or would it actually be harder? Also, would the headers have to come back off?

 

[410Fortune]

You can replace the engine mounts now if you want
The engine will have to go up 2” or so to get the old ones out

Anchor mounts are pretty cheap
The factory mounts also last a good long time unless you are jumping your truck hahahaha

 

[97Sandbox]

Is there a simple way to tell if the original mounts are toast? The rubber looks surprisingly not cracked. The engine can rock pretty easily on the mounts right now, but I think that may be more a result of not having the trans mount in.

 

[410Fortune]

They are fine! If one was bad the rubber would be cracking and the studs loose inside the rubber

They don’t really “go bad” I mean looking under that truck in the pictures it looks like what I call a “cream puff” she’s been babied!! Looks great

 

[97Sandbox]

Sweet! In goes the pilot bearing and flywheel then.

 

[97Sandbox]

Still chugging along. Been messaging @410Fortune on the side for wiring advice. It's not as simple as I originally thought because V8 rigs don't have the clutch switch wiring dangling under the dash like V6 auto trucks do. We'll get there though!

Chased a lot of threads, replaced rear main, cleaned around the oil pan and added some fresh RTV, cleaned dowels and installed in block, installed pilot, block plate is on, and flywheel is torqued.

Wiring book should arrive next Monday. Until then, I'll keep rolling with putting manual bits in where auto ones came out.

 

[97Sandbox]

More pedals = more fun.

Removing the single brake pedal was honestly the worst part of the job so far...just something about working under a dash. Done now though!

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done.

While you are in there, you might also reinforce the gas pedal bracket. I have had three of my four 2nd gen's tear the rivets from the firewall. The bracket is held on by two spot welds, and they are not located ideally out to the edges of the bracket.

The fix is straight forward if it's not torn yet. Remove the pedal, and drill two holes in opposite corners of the bracket. Then install two OEM bolts, and nuts that has a large washer built onto it, the bolt on the inner part of the bracket. I didn't take any pictures, but it's easy to see why it works when you get the big nut(washer) in place.

 

[97Sandbox]

I take a look! I've read about that issue and thought it was addressed from the factory sometime in the 99 model year. But this being a late 98 build, I wouldn't doubt it's the older, weaker design. I'll probably have some sheet metal to manipulate on the trans tunnel, may as well look at the firewall.

 

[410Fortune]

Geeze your floor is in good shape!
My old 96 the fuel feed pedal ripped away from firewall fixed it with two clamps and fender screws. Have not had that issue on any of these 98-04 rangers or tracs
It’s good to keep checking for cracks!

 

[CDW6212R]

Mine besides my last one showed up as a slightly loose gas pedal. The pedal could be moved left and right a little with the foot, and it shouldn't move sideways at all. I'm sure my job did them in, using my left foot over the trans tunnel to push the gas and brake. I must push at a slight angle a lot of the time.

 

[97Sandbox]

M5R2 is in!

And a quick mockup revealed I'm going to need to tweak my Tcase shift lever slightly, but the Ranger dual shift bezel is going to work.

 

[410Fortune]

Very cool love the dual
Boot setup!

 

[97Sandbox]

I'll take pictures of the final shift lever configuration. It fits well, although I did preemptively massage the trans tunnel for added clearance.

 

[97Sandbox]

Been making good progress on wiring and running clutch hydraulics this afternoon. I'm sure glad I have a stock manual Ex for reference.

I've also been figuring things out for modifying my trans crossmember. Fun fab work soon to come!

 

[97Sandbox]

Back to good old Cardboard-Aided Design because I quit my engineering job to stay home with the kids.

No more free access to 3D scanning and Solidworks but not commuting is pretty great. Plus I have more time to work on projects when the stars align and both kids nap at the same time.

 

[410Fortune]

Going to work is waaaaaaay over rated

Who needs all these engineers designing stuff anyways, the kids are happy with you at home

Looks real similar to what I come up with except yours is skinnier

 

[97Sandbox]

Gettin' there!

 

[410Fortune]

I see the all important center line marked on there.. can’t wait to see the final result!

 

[97Sandbox]

Yep, shifted 1/4 to the pass side, per your recommendation of course!