2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

[willzilla]

Seems maybe my neutral safety switch which I guess is the big black box thing that bolts onto transmission bolt that goes into transmission hooked to the inside linkage and that the lever bolts to to shift.

Seems cheap to just replace.. rockauto points to this one, anyone able to confirm?

Standard Motor Products NS129: https://amzn.to/3JXVaR8

Don't see a Motorcraft option.. just this, WVE, and Rostra.

 

[CDW6212R]

That switch is tough to find in searches. Try this Ford part, it's the cheapest OEM I found; Amazon product ASIN B000C5DTYM
The correct old part number looks to be F7LZ-7F293AB, there are many revisions of it. That's called the Manual Lever Position sensor, or MLPS, or DTRS later on(Digital Transmission Range Sensor). It is also the neutral safety switch, and commonly called the range sensor, but it is not a speed sensor, yet that's also used in search terms like that Amazon listing.

So obviously plenty of morons have misnamed it over the years. The critical thing to be sure of is to not buy one for a pre-98 4R70W, those were all analog, not digital, with more terminal pins, plus not sealed originally. Ford made an updated version of that, which is critical to get if you have an older AODE or 4R70W, moisture will mess with those old ones.

I saw the Ford part often for $65ish or more, so that Amazon listing is good at $55 IMO. I put in my wish list for later, I know I have one already somewhere. I need to save a little for the moment, I'm about to buy shifter parts for the 6R80 swap I'll do later this year.

 

[willzilla]

O, nice! Thank you for the link. That part from Amazon you linked is the the 98+ version?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, basically there are two versions not counting any old original stock. The early type were on all AODE's and the 4R until 1998. The 4R was updated a lot for the 98 model, that was part of why they say find a 98 or newer to rebuild.

 

[willzilla]

Yes, basically there are two versions not counting any old original stock. The early type were on all AODE's and the 4R until 1998. The 4R was updated a lot for the 98 model, that was part of why they say find a 98 or newer to rebuild.

On Amazon and other sites they all mark this part, https://amzn.to/3lBKmPb, as not a fit for my 2000 Ford Explorer.

It looks the same.. wonder why everywhere says that it does not fit?? Lol.

 

[CDW6212R]

On Amazon and other sites they all mark this part, https://amzn.to/3lBKmPb, as not a fit for my 2000 Ford Explorer.

It looks the same.. wonder why everywhere says that it does not fit?? Lol.

The Amazon application data is very good generally. That listing I think is wrong, the part number I found later in searches, and it turned up that link which I had already seen. I don't like those engineering numbers, that SW5713, those are easy to remember, but not great for the detailed items that have the full complicated OEM number.

I had an interesting time confirming the 1999-01 cam synchronizer recently. I need two for sure to use in my upcoming projects(302 Explorer engine based). Some sources listed the DA-‎2090 as being correct, and almost an equal amount showed the DA-2091 being a proper fit. I waited until I got the proper part number from my local Ford dealer. Then I hunted that, and it showed me that the DA-2090 is correct, but the listings for the 2091 were all wrong. I found that Amazon carried the DA-2090 for a good price, with plenty in stock(it's obsolete now), and I bought one. The listing doesn't mention the part number, just the DA-2090 down in the description. Those are going to sell out soon, and then people will be stuck paying a lot more for the few found, or the crap brands like Dorman etc. It's a critical part, the only suitable aftermarket are from high end sources like Holley who make a similar unit for their SBF EFI systems. But those cost $400ish, while the OEM was $125 two years ago, but now $220+ on eBay. The Amazon source is just $175 right now; Amazon product ASIN B000EQ8XJ0

 

[CDW6212R]

I like to get certain parts ahead of time. I will probably buy another one of those DTR sensors in the near future, I think will need three of them for my 4R builds upcoming. I got anxious and just ordered three parts for my six speed swap for my Explorer. I committed to the trans idea last year when I ordered stuff to rebuild both of my diff's, including 3.08 gears which are now obsolete from Ford. The shifter I'm aiming to use is from a 2015-2020 F150, 2018+ also changed to do away with a manual 1st or 2nd gear selection. So the shifter itself is $175ish with the handle and boot, used on eBay is around $105 at the lowest. The handle that comes with the new assembly costs $85+ by itself, and I like the optional shift handle better, though it's $175 alone.

So do you need another project, I can predict this would cost you another $4k with all the many support items it needs? Here's the shift handle I expect to make fit my SUV;

 

[willzilla]

The Amazon application data is very good generally. That listing I think is wrong, the part number I found later in searches, and it turned up that link which I had already seen. I don't like those engineering numbers, that SW5713, those are easy to remember, but not great for the detailed items that have the full complicated OEM number.

I had an interesting time confirming the 1999-01 cam synchronizer recently. I need two for sure to use in my upcoming projects(302 Explorer engine based). Some sources listed the DA-‎2090 as being correct, and almost an equal amount showed the DA-2091 being a proper fit. I waited until I got the proper part number from my local Ford dealer. Then I hunted that, and it showed me that the DA-2090 is correct, but the listings for the 2091 were all wrong. I found that Amazon carried the DA-2090 for a good price, with plenty in stock(it's obsolete now), and I bought one. The listing doesn't mention the part number, just the DA-2090 down in the description. Those are going to sell out soon, and then people will be stuck paying a lot more for the few found, or the crap brands like Dorman etc. It's a critical part, the only suitable aftermarket are from high end sources like Holley who make a similar unit for their SBF EFI systems. But those cost $400ish, while the OEM was $125 two years ago, but now $220+ on eBay. The Amazon source is just $175 right now; Amazon product ASIN B000EQ8XJ0

Awesome, I'll pick it up and see how it goes

I have also noticed oddly enough for the first time of the day I just started the truck up and begin driving it the first couple initial shifts from a stop seems a bit laggy... all within like the first couple minutes from when I started the truck. After that for the rest of the day it runs and shifts perfectly. Maybe not an issue or concern?

And wow.. yeah.. sucks the good parts are going away and harder to find! I ran into that big time with the accumulators :-/

 

[willzilla]

I like to get certain parts ahead of time. I will probably buy another one of those DTR sensors in the near future, I think will need three of them for my 4R builds upcoming. I got anxious and just ordered three parts for my six speed swap for my Explorer. I committed to the trans idea last year when I ordered stuff to rebuild both of my diff's, including 3.08 gears which are now obsolete from Ford. The shifter I'm aiming to use is from a 2015-2020 F150, 2018+ also changed to do away with a manual 1st or 2nd gear selection. So the shifter itself is $175ish with the handle and boot, used on eBay is around $105 at the lowest. The handle that comes with the new assembly costs $85+ by itself, and I like the optional shift handle better, though it's $175 alone.

So do you need another project, I can predict this would cost you another $4k with all the many support items it needs? Here's the shift handle I expect to make fit my SUV;

View attachment 440253 View attachment 440254

$4k??? WOW.... lol. I will be taking on a new project with my El Camino SS... I need to begin work on that sometime soon, lol.

That shift handle looks pretty nice

 

[willzilla]

I got in the neutral switch... Hopefully will get around to installing it sometime over the next few days

Truck has been driving great OTHER than the first 5 minutes or so of the first startup of the day and it taking a few seconds to shift from a stop.

Had my wife assist me over the wknd in a YouTube video, lol... Had her help me install a ProClip phone charger/mount into her Mustang. Got the ProClip free from them after they reached out to me on Instagram after seeing I had their mount in my Camaro. It's a pretty sweet setup with wireless charging and all of that fun stuff.



Needless to say.. the wife probably made the install take 3x longer but it was fun, HAHA.

 

[willzilla]

Changed the oil in the Xploder which was well overdue, lol, and replaced the neutral safety switch. The reverse lights initially still did not come on until I loosened the 2 mounting screws and slightly adjusted the position and tightened it back down and all was well afterwards!

 

[willzilla]

Randomly my air bag light came on.. well, it flashed a few times and stayed solid after a bit. Did this for a few days. Code came back for passenger side. I unplugged the seat connector and sprayed some electrical cleaner into the connector and connected it back together and for now the light has remained off, lol

Transmission still being a little sluggish for a few minutes while cold and then shifts great for the rest of the day. Super annoying but better than nothing I suppose. Trying to look around for those accumulators still.

 

[willzilla]

My front passenger window has been struggling to go up and down, especially when it's cold out, so.. finally got around to replacing the power window regulator and motor assembly:



I replaced the driver's side assembly years ago.

 

[CDW6212R]

For the future, a slow moving window is first most likely the window motor plastic pucks($7), or the rubber guide channels around the glass. In a Winter area, corrosion often may start in those guides, on the metal inside of them, making them swell slightly. My 93 did that, and it was from Ohio originally. I figured that out in 2000 when I bought and reconstructed it. I had to replace the LF door anyway, but I found that rust and also bought new guides. Now it's all part of my 99 truck and it still works fine in Winter here.

So do the plucks first next time, the regulators should be the last to ever need replacing, after the motors.

 

[willzilla]

For the future, a slow moving window is first most likely the window motor plastic pucks($7), or the rubber guide channels around the glass. In a Winter area, corrosion often may start in those guides, on the metal inside of them, making them swell slightly. My 93 did that, and it was from Ohio originally. I figured that out in 2000 when I bought and reconstructed it. I had to replace the LF door anyway, but I found that rust and also bought new guides. Now it's all part of my 99 truck and it still works fine in Winter here.

So do the plucks first next time, the regulators should be the last to ever need replacing, after the motors.

Thank you for the info I had lubed the guides a while back and it didn't seem to help. As for being slow.. the window would stop moving completely at times and I was worried it would get stuck in the lowered position one day, lol. What are the motor plastic pucks? Replacing the motor itself replaces those? The regulator/motor assembly I picked up cost only a few dollars more ($40'ish) than just buying the motor ($30'ish) so I just picked up the entire assembly. The guides looked in pretty good condition but I should of picked up new ones while I had everything apart I'm sure. Not really much corrosion issues here thankfully... I did get a chance to clear out some old dead wasps and wasp nest remains that were inside the door panel from years ago when the truck sat a lot and wasps would crawl into the door through the door handle and make nests, lol.

 

[CDW6212R]

I think your truck has never been north much right? It should be fine, the window guides that is. The rust issue I had was both my original 93 door, and the replacement 91 model. The glass was virtually impossible to move up or down with the motor out. With the new guides, my glass was not that hard to move by hand. I had changed the motor pucks before, so I had done that first before discovering the rusty guides.

The motors have a motor section and a gear section. The motors should last forever, only the brushes might ever wear out. The gear section has the main metal center part, plastic gears, and the three plastic "pucks" which are the weakest links. The pucks transmit the force from the gear driven motor, to the steel gear which drives the regulator. So those plastic pucks get old, brittle, and they deform, before disintegrating eventually. They should be replaced before they get ten years old, that's a good lifespan for such a low cost wear part.

 

[willzilla]

I think your truck has never been north much right? It should be fine, the window guides that is. The rust issue I had was both my original 93 door, and the replacement 91 model. The glass was virtually impossible to move up or down with the motor out. With the new guides, my glass was not that hard to move by hand. I had changed the motor pucks before, so I had done that first before discovering the rusty guides.

The motors have a motor section and a gear section. The motors should last forever, only the brushes might ever wear out. The gear section has the main metal center part, plastic gears, and the three plastic "pucks" which are the weakest links. The pucks transmit the force from the gear driven motor, to the steel gear which drives the regulator. So those plastic pucks get old, brittle, and they deform, before disintegrating eventually. They should be replaced before they get ten years old, that's a good lifespan for such a low cost wear part.

Ahh, gotcha! Yeah.. I think it started in the north for a very short time many many years ago. But for most of it's life it's been in the south (TN and TX). With the regulator/motor assembly out the window slid up and down in the guides very easy (had to tape the window in place in the upwards position so it wouldn't fall down on me while I was working on everything).

 

[CDW6212R]

That's great, your window guides are fine then. My latest 98 sticks during Winter, since I got it, but it was from SC. I haven't made time to R&R the left door panel and motor, to do the pucks. Those should fix it, but if not, then I'd be wondering about the guides.. My LF also shifts a bit as it goes down, the short adjustable guide is likely out of adjustment too. Those are super easy to loosen and adjust, they are the one lowest gold bolt on the lower rear of each door. It slides side to side slightly, to snug against the glass.

 

[willzilla]

Well.. seems my tensioner pulley is making sound again.. kind of like rocks garbling around or something, lol. Ordered ANOTHER tensioner and new idlers as well... again. Maybe the change in the overall length of the belt system with the change to the electric water pump some time ago (or maybe misalignment of the compressor) seemed to have worn out pulley super quick :-/ Anyways.. Ordered everything and it arrived today but it's been raining a few days and went to pick up daughter from HS and she told me the car is pretty loud... Checked out the engine bay and the belt is torn up and pieces hanging off in all directions, lol. Kind of an old belt now I think I replaced it last about 6 years ago.

Limped it home and the belt didn't break completely thankfully!! Ordered another shorter belt (to bypass the compressor) and another electric water pump length belt which should all be here in a few days. My previous bypass belt squealed somewhat so I think it was maybe to long by a little so ordered another one a little shorter and will see how that goes.

Going to swap my to long bypass belt in a few and hope it works good enough until the replacement belts arrive

 

[willzilla]

Ok.. found an entire rib worth of the belt shredded off the belt and entangled with the crank pulley... removed all of the pieces that I could see and installed my leftover bypass belt and started car up and am now getting a lot of sound coming from the crank pulley... Ugh.. Looking under the car the pulley kind of looks... tilted a bit, as if not centered. Maybe some of the belt debris got sucked in or something and causing the sound/issues? Hard to replace? :-/



Remains of the belt: