2001 Sport Trac Fuel Pump not running - need truck soon! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2001 Sport Trac Fuel Pump not running - need truck soon!

speedingbullitt

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City, State
NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Sport Trac
Hi Everyone,

New to the forum and it seems there is alot of information on the fuel pumps here.

I have a 2001 Sport Trac that wont start. My trusty steed has 176K and has never let me down. It has the original fuel pump and it seems it is not getting fuel. Will run if fuel is squirted in intake and started.

I do not beleive I hear the fuel pump running. No fuel pressure at rails. I took the fuel filter off and put a clear bag on it that was tie wrapped and when the key is turned to run no fuel comes out. Fuses look good, check engine light and theft light is off when cranking and the theft light goes off after in the run position.

I checked the inertia switch and it is pushed in, but have not checked voltage to it yet. Can I just jump the connector out at it to bypass the inertia switch?

I found an earlier thread with the connector and the voltage requirements that I can't find now.

At the fuel tank 8 pin connector I have voltage at pin 1 only (5 volts..reference voltage?)

Pins 2,6, & 8 should also have voltage readings, but I am getting nothing. Just mille volt readings.

Pins 5 and 6 should be grounds? They appear to be. My readings were suspect at 5 to 6 ohms but the lack of voltage at pins 2, 6, and 8 bother me most.

The truck has been sitting a year in my garage and it has been that long since last started. It ran fine when last parked. Battery died and I replaced it and now she does not get fuel. I do get 12 volts on one side of the fuel pump fuse in the PDP and at the fuel pump relay at various pins.

I am at the point where I really need a schematic. Could anyone help me out?

I would like to check power and grounds more accurately but am dead in the water without a wiring schematic.

Please let me know if anyone has any input as I need the truck SOON!!

Thanks inadvance for any help you guys can provide!!!

Steve
 



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This was the information I found earlier (below). It seems similar to my issue, though I am not getting the voltages at pins 2,6, and 8.



Okay, so I checked some voltages based on a diagram that ncranchero sent me (thank you!)



PIN:

1 - 5V
2 - 5.02V
3 - 0
4 - 0
5 - Ground
6 - 6.67V to 11.98V
7 - Ground
8 - 11.98V

IIRC: Okay, when the key is initially turned on, I get 11.98V from pin 6 for about 1 1/2 seconds and then it goes to 6.67V constant. The reference voltage (pin 1) stays at a constant 5V and the Fuel pump/gauge sender (pin 8) is also a constant 11.98V.

So does this seem okay for voltage to the fuel pump? An initial 12V and then cuts back to 6.67V constant after a second or two? Needless to say, the pump still does not kick on after I reconnected the connector.

If all things point towards bad fuel pump, which appears it does, I will move in that direction.
 






Sounds like the pump is dead. You might try jumping 12v directly to the connector ( with some speaker wire or a cheap extension cord) to see if it will run as a last check, but it sounds like you identified the problem.
 






I just sent you a gob of info. FWIW, I agree and believe you will need a pump. You're getting up to 11.98V on #6, pump power pin. These electric pumps just seem to gum up and not run after sitting for an extended time. Your 2001 a Job 1 or 2?
 






Hi Guys,

Thanks for the help.

I think I mislead everyone in my second post as I copied and pasted from another post. That was another member issue, but I was referencing their issue and the plug ring out.

I so not have any voltage at pins 2, 6, or 8 and my grounds do not look great either.

I am hoping due to my lack of voltages that it is not a pump issue, and now that I got the prints from Steve I can now look a little deeper.

Thanks again Steve for the prints and the diagnostic info!!!

Steve
 






Steve (NCRANCHERO)

Would you happen to have the print for the PDM so I can check power more accurately. Any clues as to where grounds G300 and G204 are?

Just jumped out the inertia switch with no change. I took readings and had momentary 12V in then down to 7volts constant. When I jumped it though I just got a flash of about 11 V and then it went to a mille volt reading again.

Something in the circuit downstream is causing the voltage to breakdown?

Thanks guys!

Steve
 






I had a similar problem over the summer in my 2005 ST. I spent over a month trying to figure out what was wrong. My ST would start for a second and then sputter out. A couple of times it would run for 5-10 seconds before sputtering out. Changed the fuel pump and then found a thread about the theft system. Under the dash on the passenger side was a red button for the fuel system. Take a look in your ST and see if resetting that works. Best of luck.
 






Thanks everyone for all the help,

I checked all the inputs again and it lokks like I have power in where it should be....I guess it is the pump.

Any thoughts on if to just change the pump or change the whole assy?

Ford wants $495 for the whole assy!! Auto parts store is at $325...It looks as though I see just the pump online for $100 -$150.

Just looking for any input on where might be the best place to get one and if I should just change the pump or the whole assy.

Thanks for any input!!
 






I have always just changed the pumps, provided the gauge operates properly.See what Airtex has to offer. They make a very good replacement pump, never had a problem with a single one.
Airtex

Did you still need more info?
 






Thanks again Steve,

I have seen the airtex pumps online before u mentioned it and they were the cheapest. I had never heard of them, so your endorsement definitely makes me feel better. On the parts geek web site the whole assembly is roughly same cost as the individual pumps! About $140...I think thats the route I am going.

I had one question though...The fuel lines at the tank look like they stay on with clips? Do I need any special removal tools for the lines?

Hey, thanks again for everyones input!
 












I haven't done one so I cant say what clips it has. This is a 203 project, YMMV.

Fuel Pump Replacement 2003

Looking at the photos from that project it looks like the fuel lines don't need the removal tool as they are the ones you push on part of it while pulling it off. One of them was a real hassle to get loose when I changed my fuel filter and required much cursing to remove.
 






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